Brake Line Bleeding For Newbies?

[jambie]

I want to bleed and replace all the brake fluid on my new-to-me '02 LS 430 tomorrow, as the stuff in there is pretty dark and may be factory original at 85K. I have access to a Snap-On vacuum brake bleeder that attaches to the bleeder screws and sucks out the old stuff, then draws in the new stuff when you add it at the reservoir. Sounds simple? I've heard that you should start at the caliper furthest from the reservoir and work back, and to take care not to break off any corroded bleeder screws. Any other advice/warnings/cautions/gotchas I should be aware of? How about recommended brake fluid?

Thanks in advance, and...

Cheers!

Tom

[SRK]

The sequence is not important. In the old days (pre 1967 ) cars had single circuit brakes, and that's why the advice was to start farthest away. Now we have ABS units, and tandem master cylinders using either front-rear split, or triangular split, and it just doesn't matter anymore.

I tend to start at the right rear and go clockwise around the car, and then repeat.

As well many shops use pressure bleeding, which is by far the best way, certainly better than pumping the pedal, and pressure also doesn't need any particular sequence.

Just go around twice and you'll be fine.

Be careful with the bleeder screws, usually they release nicely on these cars. I believe Lexus states DOT 3 fluid, although you could spend the extra and use DOT 4 which is fully compatible. No others though.

[landar]

Just wondering if anyone uses brake fluid test strips, like so -> http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_3743_401/phoenix_systems_brake_fluid_test_strips_100_pk.html

Or brake fluid testers -> http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_5490_161/electronic_brake_fluid_moisture_tester.html

I know some shops carry these strips or testers and can check it for you.

For the price, I think it may be cheaper to just flush the system and be done with it.

[oldskewel]

I want to bleed and replace all the brake fluid on my new-to-me '02 LS 430 tomorrow, as the stuff in there is pretty dark and may be factory original at 85K. I have access to a Snap-On vacuum brake bleeder that attaches to the bleeder screws and sucks out the old stuff, then draws in the new stuff when you add it at the reservoir. Sounds simple? I've heard that you should start at the caliper furthest from the reservoir and work back, and to take care not to break off any corroded bleeder screws. Any other advice/warnings/cautions/gotchas I should be aware of? How about recommended brake fluid?

Thanks in advance, and...

Cheers!

Tom

First clean the outside of the brake fluid reservoir so no dirt gets in. Then open the reservoir and suction out (e.g., with a turkey baster) as much old fluid as you can. Clean as much as possible. Then add new brake fluid to top up the reservoir. When sucking out the old stuff from the bleed screws, periodically check the reservoir and add more new fluid to make sure it never runs dry. If you make a mistake there, you'll have a lot of air in the system to bleed out.

Also, when pouring in the new fluid, try to pour carefully with little splashing so you don't entrain air bubbles in the fluid. And don't shake up the bottle before starting - same reason. Once the bottle is opened, it has limited shelf life, so factor that in to your brake fluid purchasing.

[VBdenny]

one other thing, brake fluid will damage paint in a hurry.