eastmanm Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 O'Reilly's has it fitting my '94 LS400, but it is expensive - almost $200 than the other one ($337). But, given how these others tend to fail over time, would it be worth paying the extra bucks in hopes this one is made better? Would be curious if anyone has gone this route. As it is, my current leaky pump took my alternator with it, so even doing the work myself, this is something I definitely don't want to have to do again :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxiiac Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 I got mine from Advanced Auto Parts. Don't remember the brand name but it was like $170, with a $70 core charge. Had it in for like 9 months with no issues so far. If I remeber correctly it was just one gasket on the resevoir that went bac causing the leak. May you can just replace the gasket as a simple fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastmanm Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Thanks, now that I'm the point where I have to whip out the wallet, think I just go with the less expensive one again - I'm hoping that by plugging the Air Control Valve at the bottom of the pump, that will eliminate a major source of leakage for these pumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryparks Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Thanks, now that I'm the point where I have to whip out the wallet, think I just go with the less expensive one again - I'm hoping that by plugging the Air Control Valve at the bottom of the pump, that will eliminate a major source of leakage for these pumps. I wonder if a generic "O" ring from your friendly hardware/farm supply would cure your reservior leaking problem? I'm in the process of working on mine and I'm thinking of doing this lst. Toyota has a repair kit for your old original pump for $57.00. I'm going that route if cleaning up the mess around the bottom of the pump and replacing the O ring does not cure my problem. I could get fortunate and repair this irritant for 30 cents. What a mess at the bottom of the pump!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfalfa Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Installing a new o-ring is a must, but has anyone of you thought about adding a bit of form-a-gasket material around the base of the resevoir near where the o-ring resides. If enough extra sealing material is added as a second line of defence to keep the oil where it belongs. This should extend the life of the "no oil leak issue". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Its not clear to me what leak we're trying to fix here. 1) Leaky reservoir to pump body O-Ring 2) Leaky Air control valve (leaking to hose into intake manifold, white smoke out exhaust) 3) Leaky main seal on pump leaking out the shaft I would think 1 & 2 can be done leaving the pump in the vehicle. 3 is a pump replacement (or a DIY rebuild for you adventurous types, www<dot>lexls<dot>com/tutorials/steering/pspumprebuild.html ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastmanm Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 Its not clear to me what leak we're trying to fix here. 1) Leaky reservoir to pump body O-Ring 2) Leaky Air control valve (leaking to hose into intake manifold, white smoke out exhaust) 3) Leaky main seal on pump leaking out the shaft I would think 1 & 2 can be done leaving the pump in the vehicle. 3 is a pump replacement (or a DIY rebuild for you adventurous types, www<dot>lexls<dot>com/tutorials/steering/pspumprebuild.html ). Does anyone have any idea where these power steering pumps are most likely to leak? I'm putting one in now, if there is anything else I can do to extend the life of this pump (e.g. apply gasket sealant, another O ring, etc), I'm all over it! I've disabled my ACV, and will see if there anything else that can be done to further seal the reservoir/pump connection. As much satisfaction there is with doing my own repairs, I'd rather forgo the pleasure of taking out and installing yet another new ps pump if I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryparks Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 I finished getting mine out yesterday. I'm cleaning it up with de-greaser now. I think any future removal will be a lot easier-since I've learned a few things about this removal process. I am also interested in the above question as to where the leaks are most likely to occur. I just bought a repair kit, but upon inspection of my removed pump- I do not see any leaks, except around the bottom of the pump. At this point, I'm thinking of just replacing the O ring under the resovioer and re-installing with enough bolts to operate the pump, and see if there are any leaks. I'm not too keen right now on breaking my pump down completely if its not leaking. I'm also going to re-install with some anti seize compound to eliminate the bolt removal problems. That suggestion on using the Blaster spray helps a lot too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastmanm Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 Looking at my pump more closely, I'd guess the weak area is where the reservoir attaches to the pump (besides that plastic ACV fitting, which I'm taking off). All I see is that little O ring on the shaft holding in the fluid - would it make sense to also apply some gasket sealant up where the reservoir housing sits again the main pump housing for extra insurance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryparks Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Just finished up re-installing my resouvior. Applied the extra gasket sealer - no leaks- Pump was not leaking, except around the bottom valve. Cost me less than 10 bucks total and a lot of labor to fix. I also removed, cleaned and had brushes installed on my alternator. Removing the alternator was relatively easy. Moving it around was not very easy, because of all the oily covering. I watched the alternator repairman remove the back chrome cover on the alternator and make the brushes installation. This procedure is very easy on the pre '93 LS 400. The brushes are already in an enclosed ring shaped configeration, so one does not have to take the whole alternator apart. The guy charged me $25.00 and also tested it after re-assembling. I think I will just buy brushes next time and make my own installation. I appreciate all the help that I have received on this site during this repair job. Thanks, Fellows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastmanm Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 Congrats! I just finished mine as well, although I put in both a rebuilt alternator & ps pump. Having said that, I now wonder if I could have gotten away with resealing the old PS pump instead of buying a rebuilt one - the way it connects to the reservoir looked suspect to me, thinking that and the old ACV valve (which I removed) may have been the source of my leak. I applied liberal amounts of high temp gasket seal on the reservoir connection & did a full ps steering fluid flush, hopefully this PS pump will go the distance. My alternator was soaked in ps fluid, so perhaps it was best to go rebuilt for me, if only for peace of mind. Btw, with the ACV plugged & new fluid added, steering feels soooo much better :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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