Alfalfa

I like living on the edge. ^_^

Still driving my 95 with the original belt at 170,000. Not too worried about it because I only drive it once a week and I have other cars to drive if it goes Boom!

You might want to change it when you are nearly out of fuel, otherwise with the banjo bolt on the fuel line you cannot plug the thing to prevent fuel from draining out. I ran mine down to about a gallon in the tank and then with the rear jacked way up, I was able to change mine with only a very small amount of spill.

Billy, I hope if you replace the sensor, you have an easier time than I did. The part number from CarQuest is 75-2160. It is a exact fit made by Denso. It takes a 7/8" deep socket. Funny thing after I replaced that sensor, the CEL light kept comming on about a dozen times. I just kept reseting it with my OBD tool and if is just fine now. I paid about $105.00 with a discount.

On a recent trip from the NorthWest to Ok City I got from 24 to a best of 27.6 mpg. I used premium fuel and also have Mobil one syn. engine oil in it. Most of the way was freeway driving with the best milage atained at 72 mph. Town driving is more like 17-20 mpg. These cars are very efficient at cutting through the air also. Something like .028 drag is very good for a large car.

My 95 did the same thing when I got it. I bought a CD cleaner disc and that's all it took to fix it. Mine also had the Err 1 code. Cleaner disc's are cheap, that is what I would start with to see if it will fix it.

I wonder if the "problematic air suspension" is getting a bad rap or is there really that many with problems. I guess the ones that have no problem with it never gets mentioned. My 95 has the air and works perfectly at 150,000 miles, now I hope that I have not put the jinks on it by praising it.

$1,100 on my 95 LS 400

CarQuest, part number: CFI 86570, cost me $25.46 with discount, list price was $39.78

Yours is a second generation like mine (a 95) I just changed mine last week. It is located just above the rear axle below the gas tank, just to the right of the rear differential. There is no sheild covering it. It has a banjo bolt on one connection which will make it hard to plug off to keep gas from leaking. I ran my car till it was nearly out of gas and then backed the car up on ramps, thus making what little gas that was left in the tank to go forward in the tank. Very little ran out. When I filled the car it took 21.4 gallons, so it was nearly empty.

Installing a new o-ring is a must, but has anyone of you thought about adding a bit of form-a-gasket material around the base of the resevoir near where the o-ring resides. If enough extra sealing material is added as a second line of defence to keep the oil where it belongs. This should extend the life of the "no oil leak issue".

Last summer I had a slow leak on one of my tires. I took it to a Les Schwab tire shop and I asked the attendent if he wanted me to remove the locked hub cap, he said don't bother, we have a tool that fits them. I never did see what he used, but he got the job done and had no problem removing the locking hub cap.

Yes you can drive it if it's not too far to the shop. Keeping in mind that you won't have any power steering and your brakes won't work nearly as good as normal, and your water pump will not be circulating any coolant.

292, check this site. Looks like black onzy is the only solid black for 2000 LS. http://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/makepaint2.cgi

Mario, that's where I gave up on mine a couple weeks ago. With all the air ride lines in the way and nearly no way to get to the mounting bolts, and if you got them off, you can't even get your hand up there to get them back in. Other than the power steering leak, my car runs and rides perfect. I think I will build a shield for the alternator to keep the oil off of it, or when I win the lottery I will take it to the dealer and have it fixed.