Electrical Current In Coolant

[Elton]

Just replaced third radiator in 4 last 4 years on 2004 RX with 90,000 miles. Test for current reveals 0.5 volt in coolant and technician suggests that this is cause of radiator failures. Left rear axle came apart at outer joint 3 months ago and u-joint seizing up as of yesterday. Could current be flowing through axle and driveshaft causing these failures?? If so, how to get rid of this current? Any help much appreciated!

[dgorrie]

I'm updating my original post here based on information in the thread at http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63489&pid=405857&st=0entry405857.

Initially, I had thought that ½ volt would be unlikely to cause radiator problems. I’ll freely admit that, based on the articles referenced in the thread above, I underestimated the impact that such a small voltage could have. So I’ll defer to those articles at DriveWerks and rondavisradiators.com.

I originally felt that such a small voltage probably wouldn’t cause the axle and u-joint failures as described, and that thought seems consistent with the thread above. Beyond that, I’ll defer to the comments there.

[code58]

I'm going to post an uneducated comment here. Just thinking out loud.

I wouldn't think 1/2 volt would be significant, although it raises the question of where that 1/2 volt is coming from. I also wonder if it's always 1/2 volt, or does it get significantly larger when running and/or when driving. A large voltage would suggest a bigger problem overall.

Think of my basic electrical knowledge, the 1/2 volt in the coolant is apparently NOT being directed to ground, or a volt meter test between coolant and ground would show zero volts. And I have to think that the cooling system is WELL grounded, given that the radiator, block etc are all grounded like crazy. So I have to wonder how he measured that 1/2 volt, and if that's an accurate diagnosis on his part. If he did it without disconnecting anything, you should be able to reproduce that test with a digital volt meter.

As far as the other questions about an electrical charge causing all those failures, I would think it VERY unlikely. It would probably require BIG amounts of current (not just voltage) passing through those parts, and if that were the case, I would think that anyone touching the car while standing in a puddle would be electrocuted!

To me, the voltage thing doesn't seem to be a factor. But you are sure taking some hits on parts that SHOULDN'T be failing.

Good luck.

DG- read the other thread just 2 away from this one by the same poster. The 2 links that Maxsteel posted will give you an education on electrolysis and its destructive nature. This is a good example of one of the downsides of the forums. An opinion that is not only worthless, but destructive in it's total lack of knowledge in a very real and known automotive electrical problem. It's good that you want to help, but it would do a real service to the people who come for REAL answers. I have seen it many times and it definitely is real! I've worked in automotive all my life in one form or another and the information to totally discredit your post is extremely readily available in this day and age with a few key strokes. Please use them and be a credit to the forums.

P.S. where do you see that a radiator is grounded? For a very long time radiators have been set in rubber mounts with no direct ground of any kind to the radiator. The fact that electric fans have a return path for the juice via a ground wire does nothing for the radiator. In fact, electric fans (especially aftermarket) are often the source of electrolysis because of improper installation.

[dgorrie]

I'll read the other articles - thanks for that pointer. All I saw here was that no one else had responded, and I thought some ideas might prompt someone with more knowledge to step in. You're probably right about the radiator, but I'm sure the BLOCK is grounded, and certainly the coolant path goes through that.

Regardless, it serves no purpose to !Removed! about MY response when you didn't provide one of your own, or to link readers to the other article. A simple reference to THAT link was all that was needed - we can't ALL be an expert like you.

[code58]

If misinformation floats your boat DG, float on, I'll stay out of your way. Was trying to correct the misinformation before someone took it as fact and ran with it. I wasn't aware that without a link that you were challenged enough that you couldn't find what I was referencing. Doesn't sound like you took the time to read and understand what the links said. And the attitude will serve you well in life.... or maybe not. Probably not much into learning.

[dgorrie]

Like I said, I tossed out an idea when no one appeared to be doing so. I even prefaced it with a note that demonstrated it was just an opinion. I certainly don't mind you correcting any misinformation, since I do participate both to learn and to help. Difference is - I can offer corrections without demonstrating an attitude.

Based on the articles referenced in the other thread, it seemed appropriate to remove the erroneous portions of my initial post. But it was comforting to note that the DriveWerks article in the other thread actually supported my comments about the radiator being grounded. If you missed that part, it said that “Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.”

I also noted in that thread that you agreed that the voltage issue probably didn't cause the axle and u-joint failures - thanks for confirming my opinion on that one.

P.S. – I found the articles just fine without your assistance.

[code58]

name='dgorrie' date='26 March 2010 - 09:40 PM' timestamp='1269657651' post='406158']

Difference is - I can offer corrections without demonstrating an attitude.

:rolleyes: