dgorrie

Might have missed it, but do you have a spare tire that might have a TPMS sensor?

My 2009 RX350 has/had similar symptoms. My independent Lexus shop replaced one of the half-shafts up front (right side) and things got better. I probably should replace the other side myself, but it’s not bad enough to warrant the effort or expense. Something to consider ….

For reference, I contacted Sewell Lexus in Dallas. To create new keys from scratch, the car has to be physically present. Proof of ownership is obviously required. If the dealership has the necessary equipment (not all do), they would clear and re-flash the ECU (brain). That essentially removes all knowledge of any prior keys from the car, then they program-in the new key(s). Total cost was quoted at $500 with a new key. Sewell Dallas is typically reasonable, but not all dealerships are. Being in Wisconsin, towing the car to Dallas isn’t feasible, so I suggest calling the Lexus dealers in your area one-by-one and ask if they are able to reflash the ECU and create a new key for you, and at what cost. There may also be independent repair shops that focus on Lexus, so they may be an option as well IF they have the necessary re-flashing equipment. Note that I’m not an expert, so hopefully I described the process appropriately. Good luck.

I suggest calling Sewell Lexus in Dallas. I’ve had a couple broken RX keys replaced there using aftermarket key blanks, saving lots over “official” Lexus key parts. In your case, if Lexus has your credentials on file as owning the car, Sewell MAY be able to provide a new key from scratch, or at least offer reasonable alternatives. I have their number as (214) 352-8100. You might start with “ one of your customers said you may be able to help me …”. 🤨. Good luck, and post your results back here please.

Gas shocks are the problem. It should be easy to find those shocks lots of places, but the ones I got years ago dfor my 2009 RX350 came from LiftSupportsDepot.com, P/N 6135, but verify before you buy ( cost there is about $28 each). Main thing is to get parts that have a lifetime warranty -I’m on my 3rd set since we got this car in 2011, and am in no hurry to replace it. Given the totally depleted state of your shocks, you’ll definitely have to prop up the hatch with something like a strong stick or 2”x4” or similar to get started. Total job should take well under an hour, but life will be a lot easier once you’re done. I hope that helps

In my 2015 RX350, I attached a Rexing V5 camera on the windshield just to the right of where the rear-view mirror sits. I was able to easily insert the power cable behind the molding around the windshield, and down the area just in front of the passenger door, the went under the dash until it came out near a 12V socket. Camera seems to work fine. At some point later, I did attempt to install a Rexing" smart hardware kit", but I found it NOT be very smart. Its main purpose was to allow the cameras to record activity around the car when someone bumps it, but in truth, that's probably a rarity and not worth the hassle trying to make the smart hardware kit work (which it didn't). Lots of complaints about the hardware kit online. The hardware kit requires connecting to two fuse locations, - one always hot, and one switched - but when connected, it messed up other features and never would engage the parting mode. The site at dongar.tech looks interesting, but for me, may not be worth the effort to get around the 12V outlet connection. Interesting idea though, if easily accomplished..

We had the same thing happen to our 2009 RX350 in August 2013. Under our extended warranty, it was replaced free, but the invoice shows P/N 84840-08010 being used, with about 1/2 hour labor. I searched for the P/N online and it appears it cam be gotten for $50 or less. Not sure how much hassle was involved since Lexus did it, but maybe someone else has some idea.

I appreciate the response beachlover, but I'm pretty sure this one has a legitimate issue somewhere. I've had this RX since 2002, replaced 3-4 gas caps along the way, but this is the first time the issue/code has stayed. I've disconnected the battery at least once and cleared the code, only to have it come back within an hour of next use. I replaced the gas cap again when all this started, of course. I've actually had this issue for several months, and pretty much just lived with it without any problem. But I now need to get it inspected, and it won't pass in Texas until I get it fixed. While I still need to do some basic testing of the Vacuum Switching Valve and probably the charcoal canister (at least), the fact that I can hear air leaking out somewhere above the fuel tank makes me think that air can also leak in when the ECM is doing its testing. Hence the interest in determining whether what I’m hearing is normal. I could be on a wild goose chase, but I just don’t want to ignore the symptom without cause.

I've done quite a bit of reading about MIL P0446 on a 1999 RX300 (2WD), in this forum and elsewhere, so I think my next question is new. In looking at the large hose off the vent control valve (at the charcoal canister in back), I read that one driver had found his hose clogged by dirt dobbers. So to test, I just cleaned it off and blew into it (lung power). I heard air leaking out "somewhere", and with the help of a neighbor, it appears to be coming out somewhere on top of the fuel tank (not anywhere near the gas filler cap). We did note a rubber hose coming from the canister to a point in front of the LR tire, then up and over the tank, toward the area where the leak sounds like its coming from (can't see that area on top of the tank as yet). My questions: 1) Since the EVAP system is supposed to be enclosed (holds vacuum, basically). I suspect that air leaking out toward the top of the tank indicates a bad hose or other issue. Is there any reason such an air leak would be "normal" whe it's under some lung pressure? 2) If this air leak is a legitimate problem, is there any way to see the area of the leak without dropping the tank? I understand there is an access port to get to the fuel pump -- if I get that open, will it make the top of the tank more visible, or accessible? 3) I finally found a tank diagram at AllData, and it shows two fuel cutoff valves on top. Is this what allows fuel vapors to reach the charcoal canister, while keeping liquid fuel inside? Even if a cutoff valve has failed (theoretically letting raw gas out), I'd think it would still be connected by the hoses to the charcoal filter to prevent an air leak to the atmosphere. 4) If I need to drop the tank to get to the area of the air leak (assuming it's an issue), it appears I've got to remove the fuel tank protector and exhaust pipe, but I've not seen anything further about the procedure to drop the (empty) tank. What else needs to be disconnected first, and how do you get to those points that are hidden? I suspect there is an access from the cargo area to the gas filler hose, and maybe the breather tube - correct? Lots of questions here, so I'm obviously expecting the worst. Thanks for any guidance.

I talked with 64bb seperately about this issue, and it turned out to be the same squeak I had encountered some months ago -- two parts rubbing together at the base of the steering shaft INSIDE the car, under the dash. Just look under the dash for the area where the steering shaft goes through the firewall. There is a large diameter "ring" of rubber, maybe 2 1/2" in diameter, and at least a couple inches long, that encircles the steering shaft and is held in place by a sort of large "ring clamp". Twist the steering wheel back and forth somewhat to try to verify the squeak is in that area, and if so, undo the clamp. I believe you can then maneuver the rubber ring out of the way (up or down -- can't recall which). Once the rubber is out of the way so you can see that area more clearly, just move the steering wheel back and forth again, and watch and listen in that newly exposed area. In my case, the location and cause of the squeak was very obvious. I honestly can’t recall exactly how I fixed it, but I “think” that I just readjusted something on one side or the other of the squeaky area so the two parts that caused he squeak were no longer touching. I may have added some grease in that are – can’t recall. Then I reattached the rubber ring and clamp, and have had no trouble in the year since then. 64bb had their shop fix it based on my explanation, but I think it can be done by most folks if you can handle the contorsion if getting under the dash. I suspect this type of squeak is fairly rare, but if YOU'RE the one with it, it can drive you crazy. So I'm posting here for "the future"

Just to clarify, is the "wheel area" referring to the steering wheel, or the actual front drive wheels? My '99 RX300 had a squeak at the base of the steering column inside the car whenever the wheel was being turned, either direction, even when the engine was stopped. At any point where I stopped the turning process, even if the wheel was turned well off center, the noise stopped. In my case, I located the actual squeak by pulling away a boot (or something similar) that's over the hole where the steering column extends into the engine area. Then, with the key on (to free up the steering wheel), I just moved the steering wheel back and forth a little as I looked into the newly-opened hole. The location of the squeak was quickly obvious. It's been a while, but to fix it, I think I loosed and adjusted "something", and maybe added a little grease. No problem since. Sorry I can't be more specific - it's been well over a year. I hope that helps.

I recall reprogramming an RX300 key SEVERAL years ago -- so far back that I can't recall the complete circumstances. But I found the instructions online, and they were similar to those here (a U.K. site). I just searched on "lexus owners program key rx300 lock turn" and found these, but I'd try variations of that search to see if I could find others. I think I just performed the first 9 steps, but maybe I did more of it. If I used it all, I would have copied the text into a text editor and reformatted them so they'd be easier to read. Regardless, the programming worked for me back then. "Your results may vary", but I hope this helps. Maybe someone else had a similar experience as well.

For reference, I'm seeing Autozone in Texas charging under $150 for ecah sensor, and my local Lexus dealer wants around $190. So there might be some cost reduction options available, but use your own judgement. I haven't had to replace these, so not sure how much actual work is involved. Glad to hear it's not the tranny ...

Regarding RPMs, my tach shows about 3,000 rpm at 80mph. When I release the overdrive button, the tach goes to 4,100 rpm. So your 5,000 rpm suggests something closer to 2nd gear, which is obviously a bad situation. As suggested by 1990LS400, I'd get it checked out quickly in hopes that there is a simple fix. Years ago, I had a Chevy that had transmission issues. I called several transmission shops, explained the symptoms, and all three diagnosed it over the phone as a specific solenoid, which was then repaired from under the car for about $150. While I agree that you should look for a Lexus-knowledgeable repair shop, you might make a few calls to various shops and see what they say. If they all suggest that it is a specific solenoid or something similar fix, there MAY be hope for getting it fixed cheaply.