Need Information On How To Flush Transmission

[SRK]

Can't help but think: if engineering, metallurgy, and all the high education stuff(that I graduated from in 1964--I guess obsolete now!!--) is subjective to the fluid properties of stuff (antifreeze, transmission fluid, engine oil, etc.) then all this learning was for naught.

Guess we should have kept babbitt bearings!!?????

Who would think that all that would dictate what people thought (or think) now!!????

Should have gone into the lub(or liquid) business when I graduated, but didn't.

This is exactly my point. I am not a chemical engineer. I depend on the statements of the manufacturers, as dictated by law ( Department of Transport certification) to describe their products accurately and prevent mistakes that endanger people.

In this regard, DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are completely compatible forwards and backwards (deja vu all over again). Any seach of brake fluid manufacturers will substantiate this.

If a car manufacturer stipulates DOT 3 it is to establish a minimum specification. I have not seen it, but if a car manufacturer stipulates DOT3 exclusively and stipulates that DOT 4 NOT BE USED, then they are mistaken, in that the companies that make these fluids have designed them, and tested them in full accordance with the laws of both USA and Canada, to be compatible. They are staking their reputations on this, and that's good enough for me.

Move just one digit more, to DOT 5, and you will find very explicit instructions NOT to mix this silicone fluid with the 3 and 4 polyglycol ones. That the manufacturers are so stringent about this, and so clear on the compatibility of 3 and 4 with each other, gives me confidence, which is what these legal designations are designed to do.

Whew. And I said I was tired, and I am. Time for a drink.

Remember in the film "The Graduate" when he is taken aside by a family friend and told "The future son, is in plastics" ? The guy was right. The audience laughed, but he was right.....

[SKperformance]

We all agree to follow the manuals instructions.

Differing to a lower based product is uncommon ,except for some who belive the green coolant is better to use than red.I always laugh when a person posts saying my head is warped or i am loosing coolant then say it is green in colour,especially if they were they ones who replaced it to another colour.

Dot 5 is silicone based and can't work with the others but 3 and 4 are mixable. It is like premium and regualr gas jus the amount of refining used to remove moisture and other conaminents. Nothing else to make a higher boil point. Dot 4 doesn't last as long as 3 as it is trying to aborb all the moisture even more than 3 .Dot is used for race cars with high heat braking systems which get flushed regualrly i doubt anyone needs it besides its short work life.

Amsoil is a good product , i have used mobil one for 10 yeasr and love it. I migth just try the amsoil now or motul to see if it is a difference. I also have one of the quietest ES 300's i have heard, i chaulk that up to using synthetic oil. To be honest i only change my oil twice a year,once in spring and once in fall. I don;t drive it much but i only really change it for the different oil charecterists of a 0-50 in summer and 0-30 in winter.

I have the amsoil atf fluid in my car right now. Kinda pricey but then why did i buy an Es 300 and not a camry it is the same damn car anyway, i use the same argument over anything that is not the best like regualr gas over premium. The only concern i have over the amsoil atf is it is a universal one bottle does all fliud, Maybe they have other ones that are specific but i haev only seen the global ones.

[sk1951]

I need a play-by-play on how to do a ATF flush. After hearing the horror stories of people getting the shaft from "Jiffy Lube" and other Lube shops, I have decided to take on this task myself. Some mechanics I spoke with, do not recommend the flushing techniques used at these lube shops.

Anyway, if anyone out there wishes to share the knowledge, please post it on this post :) Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

P.S. Some added illustrations/diagrams/pictures would be nice, but beggars can't be chosers. :)

Pete

I love this forum but it does get confusing. This is what "I" am going to do with my 96 es300 w/125k mi.

1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use.

2. The dip stick says to use Dex II and to check the rear end oil at the filler hole. However my understanding is that Dex III can be used in place of all before it. I am not sure when Dex II was superseded/discontinued but I thought it was before 96 as stated below. I am sure the stick is OEM and has all the jap lingo on it. I concluded that maybe the stick is older than 96 but then what did the factory really use? I assume it had to be Dex III. (Democratic disclaimer: No disrespect meant on the Jap statement.)

3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 (602) 866-1474 and they told me...:

"Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline vv337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron".

4. So...I want all the oil changed out... so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. Because the Valvoline can be used and will mix with everything I feel safer useing it. It takes 9 qts plus one or 2 for the flush. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37

Overview from the site above:

MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties.

Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required.

WIKIPEDIA:

All previous DEXRON specifications were replaced once DEXRON-VI was introduced. There are no valid approved products that carry the DEXRON approval unless they have a DEXRON-VI approval and associated license.

DEXRON-IIE has been surpassed by DEXRON-III as of January 1, 1994. It is no longer available and its use is no longer recommended. DEXRON-IIE is not compatible in systems requiring DEXRON-III or DEXRON-VI.

DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage. All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc, and D/M however since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated in any way.

DEXRON-VI

DEXRON-VI was introduced in 2005. It was designed to replace all prior specifications, and is therefore backwards-compatible with applications calling for DEXRON of any type. The specification (GMN 10060) defines both a performance level and specific additives that provide improved shift feel, friction durability and oxidative stability compared to earlier specified fluids.

Hope this helps and not hinder...