Front Passenger Door Actuator

[teammootracer]

Hello,

I just tried to "$15 door actuator repair" my front passenger door. The plastic tab where you can connect the actuator arm is broken off; basically, theres nothing to connect to. Does anyone have any suggestions? Does anyone know where to get a new one for cheap? or if I could buy a broken one to use for the aftermarket actuator?

Thanks,

Dave

[code58]

Dave, I've done a # of them and would be happy to help if I had a better understanding of what "tab" you are talking about because you don't connect to a "tab". You connect to the part of the shaft on the end of the thin cable that goes from your little lock "rocker" at the inside door handle to the latch assembly in the door.

[teammootracer]

I'm referring to the tab shown in this photo.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&id=7594

Do you by any chance have a photo of where you attached the arm?

[teammootracer]

Here is a better photo of where I wanted to connect the arm, the plastic piece shown in the red box is whatis broken off on mine. Just a piece is chipped off, where there was a hole.

[code58]

Here is a better photo of where I wanted to connect the arm, the plastic piece shown in the red box is whatis broken off on mine. Just a piece is chipped off, where there was a hole.

If I am not mistaken TM, that is actually made that way. Others have posted pictures of a strange white protrusion with a notch out of it. Interestingly, when I did my DIL's ('99 RX, built in about may '98), I did all 4 doors and all 4 had beautiful existing holes that I used for the lock rods. They were made for that, but had another one that they used, so I used those. Seems like I lucked out because everyone else seems to report the same thing you have. You don't install it in the door, as a matter of fact you DON"T TOUCH any of the existing linkage or lock assy's. I'll see if I can post a link from another forum where I did it for a guy. I'm a little bit technologically challenged so I'll have to see if I can pull this off.

Tried and tried, but couldn't do it. Go to the thread that you quoted. I believe it's about 10 pages long. On about page 7, post #93 I explain how I did it. On post #96, the guy I did it for posted the pictures he took. If you read in that area you'll see the explanations and also the pictures. If you need any clarification, PM me.

[teammootracer]

Thank you code58, I never thought to connect to actuator to the actuator manual lock linkage. How did you flattent the rod without losing any structual integrity? I'm going to try bending the rod end into a circle, we'll see.

[code58]

Thank you code58, I never thought to connect to actuator to the actuator manual lock linkage. How did you flattent the rod without losing any structual integrity? I'm going to try bending the rod end into a circle, we'll see.

Team MR- I just used a small ball pein hammer and flattened it enough to be able to drill a 9/64ths hole (the size it takes for the shaft it has to go onto. The rod metal is relatively soft steel so it doesn't take a lot to flatten it. I then drilled the hole and sanded it smooth with my 1in. belt sander. The last one I did, I used the appropriate sized round push on clips to hold it on the shaft. I didn't have those available when I did the one in the picture. I personally think you'd be better of making a modified Z in the end of the rod to hold THAT END to the actuator. (by modified I mean 2 bends of 90 degrees each rather than about 130 degrees as in a "Z").