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Hawk Brake Pad Installation

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Hey All! I am installing some new Hawk pads today and have a question. There is a shim already on the pad that is not on the pads that I am taking off. Is this shim on the pad meant to replace at least one of the factory shims? If I leave all of them on there should I add anti squeal brake grease between all three? I have attached a pic of the pad so that everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Michael

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Hey All! I am installing some new Hawk pads today and have a question. There is a shim already on the pad that is not on the pads that I am taking off. Is this shim on the pad meant to replace at least one of the factory shims? If I leave all of them on there should I add anti squeal brake grease between all three? I have attached a pic of the pad so that everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Michael

junk the old ones. install the new brakes with the new shims on them and put a lite coat of anti squeal only on the side that comes in contact with the caliper piston.

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Hey All! I am installing some new Hawk pads today and have a question. There is a shim already on the pad that is not on the pads that I am taking off. Is this shim on the pad meant to replace at least one of the factory shims? If I leave all of them on there should I add anti squeal brake grease between all three? I have attached a pic of the pad so that everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Michael

I would have stayed with oem, but that's a personal choice. Yeah, use the shims that come with the pads since they're made to fit. I would apply the grease to both sides of the shim opposite the pistons. On the piston side, I would apply to the one side of the shim that faces the backside of the pad only. Also while you're there, check the caliper hose for any cracks or bulges and make sure you support the caliper properly so as not to stress that hose. Having fun yet?

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Hey All! I am installing some new Hawk pads today and have a question. There is a shim already on the pad that is not on the pads that I am taking off. Is this shim on the pad meant to replace at least one of the factory shims? If I leave all of them on there should I add anti squeal brake grease between all three? I have attached a pic of the pad so that everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Michael

I would have stayed with oem, but that's a personal choice. Yeah, use the shims that come with the pads since they're made to fit. I would apply the grease to both sides of the shim opposite the pistons. On the piston side, I would apply to the one side of the shim that faces the backside of the pad only. Also while you're there, check the caliper hose for any cracks or bulges and make sure you support the caliper properly so as not to stress that hose. Having fun yet?

blacktop is correct. I wasn't clear in my advice eariler. I have had very good luck using high temp Red RTV silicone instead of the anti sqeaul(its slightly thicker when it dries and seems to quiet the pad moving around in the caliper a bit better)

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I have had very good luck using high temp Red RTV silicone instead of the anti sqeaul(its slightly thicker when it dries and seems to quiet the pad moving around in the caliper a bit better)

Good point! It's surprising how much is taken for granted because it's automatic for those of us who are familiar with the process and assumed that the op already knows the small details. Yes, make sure it's high temp (usually thicker).

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Hey All! I am installing some new Hawk pads today and have a question. There is a shim already on the pad that is not on the pads that I am taking off. Is this shim on the pad meant to replace at least one of the factory shims? If I leave all of them on there should I add anti squeal brake grease between all three? I have attached a pic of the pad so that everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks!

Michael

I would have stayed with oem, but that's a personal choice. Yeah, use the shims that come with the pads since they're made to fit. I would apply the grease to both sides of the shim opposite the pistons. On the piston side, I would apply to the one side of the shim that faces the backside of the pad only. Also while you're there, check the caliper hose for any cracks or bulges and make sure you support the caliper properly so as not to stress that hose. Having fun yet?

blacktop is correct. I wasn't clear in my advice eariler. I have had very good luck using high temp Red RTV silicone instead of the anti sqeaul(its slightly thicker when it dries and seems to quiet the pad moving around in the caliper a bit better)

Thanks guys! After reading what ya'll wrote, talking with my cousin that is a diesel mechanic and his friend that is a ASE mechanic at a Ford dealer and talking making a run to the parts store to talk with a guy there that is knowledgeable I finally came up with something I hope at least works ok. I have attached a pic to show. I basially let the shim that is already glued to the Hawk pad act as the inner shim that was on the original pad. I then took some CRC Brake Disc Quiet that is more of the RTV Silicone than just grease and applied that between the shim thats already on the pad and the outer shim from the original. Now I am going to apply some of the brake lube to the back of the old shim that comes into contact with the piston on th back side pad and the caliper on the outside pad.

We just bought this car in July at the local Lexus dealer and not long after the brakes started squealing. Or maybe they were doing it the whole time and we just didn't notice it or they were cleaned and were not squealing. I figured the pads were just worn out. However, when I took them off, they have 50 -75% left on them. They dust something awful so I am going to replace them as these Hawks are not suppose to be "low dust". I guess we will see. I did think about just going with the OEM but have always heard good things about Hawk and I found these on sale a couple months ago and got them for 10 dollars and free shipping. So I figured I would try them. They are suppose to stop it shorter, less noise and dust. If my wife doesn't like them (this is her car) I guess I will know how to change them out much easier now....lol

Thanks for all your help guys! I appreciate it! I'll let you know how things are going.

Michael

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Just finished the drivers side. Was able to just crack the bleeder screw while pushing in the pistons with a piece of wood and a cheater bar. I let it drip into a pan just below and it all worked great. Pressed the brake pedal and after one push to get the pistons back out against the pads, it firmed up, so I guess I didn't get any air in the lines!!! Now on to the passanger side.

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Just finished the drivers side. Was able to just crack the bleeder screw while pushing in the pistons with a piece of wood and a cheater bar. I let it drip into a pan just below and it all worked great. Pressed the brake pedal and after one push to get the pistons back out against the pads, it firmed up, so I guess I didn't get any air in the lines!!! Now on to the passanger side.

New Problem. The caliber on the passanger side was stuck a little when I tried to swing it up. The drivers side was just fine and moved up freely. I ended up loosening the top bolt on the caliber to help free it up and it finally swung up. The problem is that now the caliber won't go back down over the pads. I believe the problem is that the sliding pin in the top of the Torque Plate doesn't slide freely like the rest. So, it's not pushing in towards the outside of the car enough to allow the caliber to slide as far as it needs to towards the outside of the car to allow enough room to go back over the pads. Has anyone ever had this problem or have any ideas what to do? I can turn it both ways (tighten and untighten) but it will not pull out or push in like the bottom sliding pin (as shown in the pics below)

Thanks,

Michael

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