Lower Oil Pan R&r

[JWhite]

I can see the cost of the pan....$318.00. Anything Lexus is expensive, but my mechanic said the labor to remove and replace on my 95 LS400 is 3 hours. Can't see how it should take that long unless they include the time for the sealant to dry. Has anyone done this job, and if so is it a DIY kind of thing?

[RDM]

It's as easy as you think. There's nothing else in the way, simply unbolt it, drop it, clean it up (if you're not replacing it), seal, and install. If you're buying a new pan it's even easier, no cleanup needed.

[JWhite]

It's as easy as you think. There's nothing else in the way, simply unbolt it, drop it, clean it up (if you're not replacing it), seal, and install. If you're buying a new pan it's even easier, no cleanup needed.

Thanks RDM, that is something I can do with no problem. Always used gaskets on other oil pan jobs so hopefully the procedure to seal the pan is not tricky. Do the bolts have a torque value and what about a drying time?

[landar]

Thanks RDM, that is something I can do with no problem. Always used gaskets on other oil pan jobs so hopefully the procedure to seal the pan is not tricky. Do the bolts have a torque value and what about a drying time?

You might be able to find a gasket for it. Autozone offers one(or at least until they run out)...it is p/n OS30654C.

I prefer to use a gasket when available but FIPG is fine, just a little messy. If you use FIPG, you first apply to the pan and within 5 minutes place the pan

onto the engine. Put the bolts back in but just finger tight(you can use the socket with extension but dont crank on it..just finger tighten). Wait one hour for the FIPG to start gelling then torque to the proper value. (Read the FIPG package for precise directions but it is of this flavor)

In either case, you want to tighten the bolts in several steps(passes) and in a sequential pattern (side-to-side, back-to-front). I am not sure of the precise torque value

but it will be fairly low depending upon the bolt size. Lexus 10mm bolts are typically 66 INCH-lbs (not Foot-lbs). 12mm are typically 13 Ft-lbs.

With these kinds of jobs, I always like to tighten to a sufficient value, yet on the lower side. Then if I see a leak, I can crank it a little more to seal things. But if I totally crush

the gasket right out of the chute, I have no room for additional correction.

Hope this makes sense.

[steve2006]

According to the manual the torque figures are 6.0Nm for the 10mm bolts and 21 Nm for the 12mm bolts ( sorry it's metric)

[JWhite]

Makes sense....thanks for the information. This I can do.