Caliper Bolts?

[jasperaxle]

Took my 05 LS in for an oil change at the dealer and was told my front brakes were at 40% and new pads were needed. Of course they could do them while I wait for $475. I declined and purchased the pads for $70. The parts guy stated I would need new caliper bolts as they are no good once you remove them so for $30 I got them also. My question is why are they "no good" once you remove them. The only thing I noticed was a small amount of thread sealer like loctite on the threads of the new bolts. Seems like a classic rip off to me. Anyone have an opinion on this or dealt with the same thing?

[03whiteLS430]

Had the same issue on my 03, bought the caliper bolts and pads for a DIY project. I discovered you only need the caliper bolts if you remove the rotors to turn them. I scuffed both sides of my rotors since they were OK and never removed the calipers so my bolts are sitting in the garage. They have to change the pads with about 50% remaining due to the wear sensors. I was thinking about tieing off my sensors and letting the pads go longer. I replaced mine for the first time when the car had 35,000 miles on it and did all 4 wheels. Very simple job and huge savings.

I have better ways to spend $900.

From what I understand you definately need to replace the bolts once you remove them because they stretch.

[curiousB]

The caliper bolts are a special type of bolt called a stretch bolt. The metal used and bolt size is designed to stretch a certain amount at the desired torque. All bolts stretch but these are designed for the specific application.

That said I've reused the stretch bolts and just used some blue locktite to to hold them in. I'm sure this isn't proper but calipers have been around a long time and a drop locktite is a lot cheaper than new bolts. Maybe I'm living on the wild side but it hasn't failed me in 2-3 years with my LS.

[jasperaxle]

Had the same issue on my 03, bought the caliper bolts and pads for a DIY project. I discovered you only need the caliper bolts if you remove the rotors to turn them. I scuffed both sides of my rotors since they were OK and never removed the calipers so my bolts are sitting in the garage. They have to change the pads with about 50% remaining due to the wear sensors. I was thinking about tieing off my sensors and letting the pads go longer. I replaced mine for the first time when the car had 35,000 miles on it and did all 4 wheels. Very simple job and huge savings.

I have better ways to spend $900.

From what I understand you definately need to replace the bolts once you remove them because they stretch.

Thanks all for the info. While I think about it, I would also like to tackle the rears in the near future. Are they just as easy as the front or are more steps involved?

[SRK]

Ah've been t' one world's fair, a rodeo and a picnic, and ah ain't never seen a torque-to-yield caliper mounting bolt.

Torque-to-yield is not used on caliper bolts. The reason they want you to replace them is that the bolt has a locking compound applied to the threads after manufacture, and that stuff one use only. The new bolts should have a dried up blob on the threads. However, it is quite acceptable to clean the threads (usually it's a blue compound, but sometimes red) of the original bolt and apply the appropriate aftermarket thread locking compound (loctite is good). Then re-use the bolts.

Torque-to-yield was developed to maintain crush when using thick head gaskets with aluminum components. Different engineering needs altogether.

[jasperaxle]

Ah've been t' one world's fair, a rodeo and a picnic, and ah ain't never seen a torque-to-yield caliper mounting bolt.

Torque-to-yield is not used on caliper bolts. The reason they want you to replace them is that the bolt has a locking compound applied to the threads after manufacture, and that stuff one use only. The new bolts should have a dried up blob on the threads. However, it is quite acceptable to clean the threads (usually it's a blue compound, but sometimes red) of the original bolt and apply the appropriate aftermarket thread locking compound (loctite is good). Then re-use the bolts.

Torque-to-yield was developed to maintain crush when using thick head gaskets with aluminum components. Different engineering needs altogether.

Thank you for confirming what my first thought was. I guess it is their way of sticking it to you when you do it yourself.

[nc211]

I have never done this. I must have taken the caliper bolts off of my former 95' LS at least 6 times over the years I owned it. I never once noticed any thread-lock type material on them. I never once used thread lock, and every time I had to take them out, they were just as tight as when they went in, and would require me hitting the wrench with a hammer to get them to break free. The same for my 4runner too.