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A Few Window Switches Have Gone Bad - Any Ideas/solutions?


topgun129

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Hi,

For a while now I've been putting up with a few bad window switches and I'm getting a little tired of it.

Basically the rear windows switches will allow the window to go down, but not up (nothing happens when you pull the switch up). Only my driver side unit will pull the window back up.

Also my driver side unit's buttons for the rear are extremely tough. You have to pull up really hard on the driver sides rear switch to get it to go up.

Lastly, the passenger front sides window switch needs to have a huge amount of downward pressing force to make it go down.

So my question is - Is there anyway to fix these switches? I'm leaning in the direction to simply replace the bad ones. If so where is the cheapest place to get some new switches? I tried a Lexus dealer for one at it was $110. (OUCH!) Any of Toyota's parts cross over for a 93 LS400? I'm sure Toyota's parts will be a lot less $$$.

I've tried a few junkyards but they are expensive and selling the entire unit. All I need is the small little switches.

Also the passenger front sides door look switch is broken (plastic top) so I'll need one of them also.

Thanks!

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If I got the correct part numbers for a 93 LS from http://www.toyodiy.com/parts , all the switches are available from http://www.parts.com/lexus/1993-lexus-ls-400-parts.cfm at a significant discount.

Passenger door switches (part number 84810-50010): $63.42

Driver door master switch (part number 84820-50010): $331.99

Amazingly few parts are interchangable between an Lexus LS and a Toyota.

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Well this might not help but www.parts.com

Window switch, ls400, drivers door 90-94 $331.99

Electrical - Body electrical - Door - Interior Trim Savings of: 31%

Window switch, ls400, passenger doors 90-94 $63.42

Electrical - Body electrical - Door - Interior Trim

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It's awfully easy to remove the entire window controller using a flat screwdriver. Disconnect the electrical connector. Take the box in the house to comfortably work on it. Then remove the trim and open up the box gently. You'll see about 7 springs on posts. Carefully stretch these springs. Then the secret. Spray a light coating of PB Blaster all over the assembly. Then reinstall the whole assembly. I did this in my 94 that had the same problems, and 5 years later, still no problems. There are other threads in this forum that describe the process a lot better than I just did. Once you complete the first one, the remaining 3 are a piece of cake. 2 hours max work.

Best of luck.

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It's awfully east to remove the entire window controller using a flat screwdriver. Disconnect the electrical connector. Take the box in the house to comfortably work on it. Then remove the trim and open up the box gently. You'll see about 7 springs on posts. Carefully stretch these springs. Then the secret. Spray a light coating of PB Blaster all over the assembly. Then reinstall the whole assembly. I did this in my 94 that had the same problems, and 5 years later, still no problems. There are other threads in this forum that describe the process a lot better than I just did. Once you complete the first one, the remaining 3 are a piece of cake. 2 hours max work.

Best of luck.

Good save on my part I was hoping to see something like this when I checked the post.... Saves me & a bunch others a lot of hassle as well as $$$. Thank dude...

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Top Gun, I've got got the PB spray can in my hand. It's simply a 12 ounce can that says PB penetrating catalyst. Yellow top, yellow and red can. You can buy it anywhere. And I noticed it is recommended for spraying on electrical contacts, which is the problem here, I believe. One thought is that you might not even have to stretch the springs-I did, but be careful. It's easy to lose them. Check the search box for other descriptions of the work if you have any concerns about removing the controllers. There were several posts that praised this method from other owners, so I know it works.

Best of luck

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Hi,

@TexasLexus94 - I went ahead and followed your advice. The result after spraying one of the switches is that it now allows the window to go up (which never happened before), but You have to pull up on the switch kinda hard to make it go up. As for going down, it always did that. Since we are going in the right direction I spayed another coat of PB on the switch and went ahead and did another switch from the car.

I've attached 2 pics of the work and switches just to make sure I did everything okay! It is hard to take off the black holder from the actual switch (not sure if I had to do that!) The white part is seated really nice and tight in there. :D

Also I let them air dry overnight.

post-64480-1247852082.jpg

post-64480-1247852091_thumb.jpg

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Topgun, you are confusing me here. You have a picture of a single switch that you sprayed with PB. WTF?

The whole idea is to remove the trim and all the switches, and then unscrew the cover that exposes the guts of the controller. Where there are all kinds of electrical contacts that all the switches contact. In other words, it's not the switches fault that the windows don't work. You don't even need to spray the switches at all. It's the copper doobies that are worn down in the assembly. Forget about the switches, and concentrate on what they touch. The switches aren't bad, the connectors are bad. Show me a pic of your naked assembly treated with PB, not your little individual switches. Then I will believe you that you have a problem.

Very best of luck.

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I may have confused you. When you lift up the wood trim, you then lift up the plate that holds the switches. Then you should have a box with springs sitting there. This is the place that you spray with PB. The place where the switches contact the copper contacts. Simple, and it works. Screw the switches, it's the contacts that have worn out.

Best of luck. You need it living in Michigan these days, I guess.

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HAHA, not to get political here but Rod Blogojevich has become a laughing stock here in Il. and the greater Chicago area. Go figure!

Well, I'll update you in a bit. I'm glad though at least my switches which I sprayed are still usable.

Thanks!

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I feel like an idiot here, but is the controller with the springs located inside the door? Do I have to remove the door paneling and all?

I've attached a photo of the rear driver side door, the area what is below the ashtray and window switch area. I do not see anything that resembles what has been said here.

Sorry to be a pain but, where is this exactly located? Do I spray the white connector?

Thanks!

post-64480-1248016822_thumb.jpg

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Update: I've attached a photo from the main driver side unit.

Is this what I'm suppose to spray with PB Catalyst (both sides)?

Also are the switches that I sprayed with PB for the rear doors okay to still use?

Thanks and looking forward to your response!

post-64480-1248020362_thumb.jpg

post-64480-1248020442_thumb.jpg

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You are driving me insane. But the first picture does show the area that you need to spray. But where are the springs? Not a big deal, but you may have messed up the whole controller. Maybe not-I hope not. Just carefully spray the guts, and reinstall the whole unit. Jesus God, I need help here. He's a good guy, but lost.

Best of luck...

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Spraying the whole thing with pblaster is prolly ok:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=29114

This thread talks about cleaning and adjusting the contacts:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=6663

I've used the "eraser method" to clean electrical contacts that have oxidized and stop functioning. If the pblaster doesn't work try a small eraser to clean the contacts.

Here's a used switch on eBay, only two days left.......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93...sQ5fAccessories

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