stirling Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 snapped these before i pulled her into the garage til who knows when...and then touched a few of em up :whistles: the headgasket blew so im building the bottom end and putting in a thicker head gasket and head studs :D ENJOY:
smooth1 Posted November 15, 2008 Posted November 15, 2008 Sorry to hear about the hg. that sucks. How much boost were you running? Are you doing the work yourself?
stirling Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 i was running 7-8 psi and ya i'll be doin the work along with a buddy of mine
smooth1 Posted November 18, 2008 Posted November 18, 2008 Well, then.... Why just replace the head gasket? If it's going in the garage for awhile, might as well open it up and replace the internals, and go over the head. Then repalce the head gasket and bump the boost to 20 psi!
stirling Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 snapped these before i pulled her into the garage til who knows when...and then touched a few of em up :whistles: the headgasket blew so im building the bottom end and putting in a thicker head gasket and head studs :D thats what im doing man !!!! ---Eagle rods, JE pistons 87mm, ARP headstuds, HKS head gasket, NGK plugs & wires--- would think it is safe to boost 20psi on that...after i break it in and run a standalone?
smooth1 Posted November 18, 2008 Posted November 18, 2008 Oh, I somehow didn't see that in your first post. Sorry. But, good to hear you are doing it. I haven't used Eagle before,(Carrillo fan here) but everything else looks great. Are you doing any head work?
stirling Posted November 19, 2008 Author Posted November 19, 2008 just porting...the guy who i am ordering the parts through said it wasnt really necessary unless you are fully building the entire motor
smooth1 Posted November 19, 2008 Posted November 19, 2008 I wouldn't even port the head. Stock flows really well. Surprisingly well. I would just replace the valve train while it's off instead. If your on a budget, I would be more concerned with building a boost safe motor than looking for more power.
stirling Posted November 20, 2008 Author Posted November 20, 2008 oh thanks, i didnt know that...so lyk replace the valves, springs and retainers? how much do those usually run you for?
smooth1 Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 It depends on where you get em from and who you know. For turbo applications, I would go with Ferrea Super alloy valves. (No titanium for turbo!) Stock size is 99.1 mm length, 29 mm head, 5.98 stem diameter, 3.5 tip length. I think the part number you want is F1499P if I remember right. Don't quote me on the part number though. Intake valves should cost (retail) around $250.00 and exhaust should be about the same. Then I strongly reccomend dual spring valve springs, but those are gonna set you back around $400. And the retainers are gonna be around $300. If you decide to go with this set up, make sure you get the seat locators for the springs. But this set up will hold very nicely for you. You can definately run full boost applications and not have any worries.
stirling Posted November 21, 2008 Author Posted November 21, 2008 ahh, good to know no titanium for turbo...why is that? thanks, it sounds like i'll keep it stock for now and if i can, do it later but no extra funds as of now
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