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Having Serious Problems-the Sc400 Runs On Premium Gas; My City Was Out

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WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX THIS ANNOYING PROBLEM. PLZ HELP, ASAP!!!

AND ALSO MY DISC CHANGER IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY. THE STEREO IS PLAYING PERFECT, BUT I HAVE NO SOUND COMING FROM MY DISC CHANGER. AND IT IS EJECTING AND GOING DOWN INTO THE SLOT GOOD, BUT NO SOUND AT ALL. WHAT DO I NEED TO DO!

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Whats the screen on the radio saying? Anything? Maybe ERR?

NO, IT JUST WANT MAKE A SOUND. EVEN WHEN I GO THRU TO CHANGING TO ANOTHER TRACK,, IT WOULD IT CHANGING AND THAT'S IT. BUT STILL NO SOUND. AND THE EJECT BUTTON LITES BLINKS WHEN OPENING THE COVER. WHAT'S GOING ON. IN DIRE NEED OF LISTENING TO SOME CD'S

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I had the same problem a year or so ago. I took apart the changer and cleaned the pinch rollers real good with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, then removed the lint from the q-tips with a microfiber towel. It worked again for another week, then it quit. I took it apart again and found nothing burned up, rollers still were clean, and nothing seemed to be out of the order. The radio still said ERR. The changer was clicking, like it was wanting to change cds, but wouldnt. I then decided to leave it be and replace the whole system entirely. Sounds much more crisp and cleaner sound with an aftermarket head unit, replacing all the speakers, 4 channel amp, and an ipod. Sorry couldnt help you much more. Heres the link to Lextreme for the wiring diagram for the entire radio system, if you decide to replace the head unit and factory amp. Hope this helps you out. http://www.lextreme.com/Lexradiowcd.pdf or http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html

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I had the same problem a year or so ago. I took apart the changer and cleaned the pinch rollers real good with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, then removed the lint from the q-tips with a microfiber towel. It worked again for another week, then it quit. I took it apart again and found nothing burned up, rollers still were clean, and nothing seemed to be out of the order. The radio still said ERR. The changer was clicking, like it was wanting to change cds, but wouldnt. I then decided to leave it be and replace the whole system entirely. Sounds much more crisp and cleaner sound with an aftermarket head unit, replacing all the speakers, 4 channel amp, and an ipod. Sorry couldnt help you much more. Heres the link to Lextreme for the wiring diagram for the entire radio system, if you decide to replace the head unit and factory amp. Hope this helps you out. http://www.lextreme.com/Lexradiowcd.pdf or http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html

THANKS A MILLION, I WILL TRY THAT?

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WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX THIS ANNOYING PROBLEM. PLZ HELP, ASAP!!!

AND ALSO MY DISC CHANGER IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY. THE STEREO IS PLAYING PERFECT, BUT I HAVE NO SOUND COMING FROM MY DISC CHANGER. AND IT IS EJECTING AND GOING DOWN INTO THE SLOT GOOD, BUT NO SOUND AT ALL. WHAT DO I NEED TO DO!

it shouldn't make that much of a difference if you use diff octane gas in there once or twice, but you will notice a diff. in the way it drives

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You can run your car on intermediate grade gas for a while as long as it doesn't knock. You can buy octane boosters at any Autozone or Strauss auto store and add it to each tank if you get pinging. As for the 12 CD changer, if you want to keep it simple, just buy a used replacement 12 CD changer off of a parts car on Ebay. If you search their auto parts section under SC400 you'll eventually find one or you can go the 6 CD changer route.

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The original 12 CD changer was mounted in the trunk and had a cassette mechanism that took 12 disks. You describe a slot and perhaps it is the tape slot in the head unit you are referring to that spits out your tape. If so, you can get replacement head units on Ebay also (either the nakamichi or the pioneer unit which aren't interchangeable as they use a different wire harness according to my lexus dealer). If you have a CD that loads into the head unit you probably have a different or later model stereo than than I have or an after market unit.

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You can run your car on intermediate grade gas for a while as long as it doesn't knock. You can buy octane boosters at any Autozone or Strauss auto store and add it to each tank if you get pinging. As for the 12 CD changer, if you want to keep it simple, just buy a used replacement 12 CD changer off of a parts car on Ebay. If you search their auto parts section under SC400 you'll eventually find one or you can go the 6 CD changer route.

OKAY THANKS SC DRIVER,

AS FOR THE GAS, I HAVE TRIED THE OCTANE BOOSTER TWICE AND CONTINUE ON WITH THE PREMIUM GAS. BUT THE CAR STILL HESITATE AND HAVE A SLIGHT MISS TO IT. COULD IT BE THE SPARK PLUGS GONE BAD THAT CAN CAUSE THE PUTTERING AND MISSING. AND THE PINGING SOUND, LIKE IT'S FROM SOME TYPE OF MANIFOLD UNDERNEATH. AND AS FOR THE CD CHANGER, I HAVE THE 12 DISC MOUNTED IN THE TRUNK. AND YES I WANT TO GO TO LESS EXPENSIVE AND SIMPLEST WAY. INSTEAD OF CHANGING OUT THE ENTIRE SYSTEM, WIRING HARNESS & WIRES. SO I HAVE SEEN THE CHANGERS ON EBAY, AND FROM THE LOOKS OF THINGS. THAT'S THE ROUTE THAT I WILL BE GOING. THANKS A MILLION!

P.S.S. HOW HARD IS TO CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS AND MAYBE THE WIRES!!!!!!!!!!!

ALSO, WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE THAT HAVE THE AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES FOR OUR CARS! LIKE FOR EXAMPLE, "TAILLIGHTS"(PERFER THE CLEAR/RED OR SMOKE/RED) OFF OF EBAY. BUT I AM A BIT CONFUSED, WHY IS IT THE SC400 IS THE HARDEST TO GET THESE PARTS. LIKE THEY ONLY HAVE FOR THE 92-95, AND SKIP 96 AND GO TO 97-2000. WHY, WHY, WHY? WHICH CAR CAN BE THE SAME AS MY 96 SC400. CAN IT BE EITHER THE 94,95 MODEL OR THE 97 MODEL. PLEASE HELP, IF YOU KNOW THE ANSWER TO THAT "BILLION DOLLAR" QUESTION.

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If your car still hesitates and pings on premium I'd try:

1) Run large 20OZ techreon complete fuel system cleaner through your system. First run the tank near empty and then put in the techron and fill to 3/4 tank and run near empty again. Don't go near dry just down to 1/8 of a tank.

2)If the problem persists, you can change your plugs to NGK or Denso iridium plugs for $6-9/each +/- new wires.

3)If that doesn't help check with Lexus service department and see if perhaps the ERG valve or O2 sensors might need to be replaced.

I believe the 1996 SC400 got an 10 HP increase and a bit more torque than the 1992-1995 models following the 1995 upgrades to the LS400. I believe the 1996 SC400 body is the same as prior years and then changed a bit in 1997. I personally think the early SC400's look better than the later models.

Check prices on ebay yahoo, partsbin.com, thebestsourceautoparts.com etc for spark plugs, wire sets, oil filters etc.

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If your car still hesitates and pings on premium I'd try:

1) Run large 20OZ techreon complete fuel system cleaner through your system. First run the tank near empty and then put in the techron and fill to 3/4 tank and run near empty again. Don't go near dry just down to 1/8 of a tank.

2)If the problem persists, you can change your plugs to NGK or Denso iridium plugs for $6-9/each +/- new wires.

3)If that doesn't help check with Lexus service department and see if perhaps the ERG valve or O2 sensors might need to be replaced.

I believe the 1996 SC400 got an 10 HP increase and a bit more torque than the 1992-1995 models following the 1995 upgrades to the LS400. I believe the 1996 SC400 body is the same as prior years and then changed a bit in 1997. I personally think the early SC400's look better than the later models.

Check prices on ebay yahoo, partsbin.com, thebestsourceautoparts.com etc for spark plugs, wire sets, oil filters etc.

SCDRIVER, THANKS A BILLION!! MAN I REALLY DO THANK YOU FOR ANSWERING ALL OF MY QUESTIONS. I WAS WITS ENDS AND PULLING MY HAIR COMPLETELY OUT. I AM GOING TO PUT ALL OF THOSE SUGGESTIONS TO PLACE NOW, AND SEES WHAT HAPPENS. AS A MATTER OF FACT I LOOKED AT THAT SAME 20oz. BOTTLE OF TECHREON COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM AT WALMART LAST NITE.

JUST ONE MORE THING, HOW HARD IS IT TO CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, AND HOW LONG WILL IT TO CHANGE THEM. IT APPEARS TO BE AN ALL DAY JOB.

AGAIN, THANKS A BILLION FOR EVERYONES HELP!!! STILL DOING A LOT OF HOMEWORK AND RESEARCH FOR MY CAR. EVERYONE TELLS ME THAT I BETTER SELL MY CAR AND IF I DO, I NEED TO LET A FEW THEM KNOW. I HAVE THE PEARL WHITE 96 SC400 WITH CHROME FACTORY WHEELS AND SLIGHTLY USED SEATS.

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Just changing the plugs and wires won't take all day. Maybe a short afternoon....couple hours at most.

Remember to use some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs. You are dealing with an alum head engine.

An off line stumble could be a couple of things. I havent read all your posts, so if you would answer me this:

How many miles?

Condition of the throttle body?

Is the SES light on or do you know if any codes are present?

Have you ever done this before to any vehicle?

Do you know what type of gas was run in it before you got it?

A fuel system treatment may solve the problem if your injectors are dirty. You will find out soon.

SCdriver's technique works, but I do the first run with 1/2 tank and run down the interstate as fast as I dare.

I used the NGK V-power plugs and they are working well.

Another thing to consider (or at least check) is the condition of both dist caps and rotors if you really want to dive into it.

I changed mine the other week, it was worth the trouble as they were original with 160k on them (just like the wires).

It made a noticable difference in performance, fuel consumption and overall operation.

All that did take a good part of the day.

I ended up removing the p/s radiator hose to get the access I wanted, but the coolant needed to be changed anyway.

Please stop using ALL CAPS. People will think you are yelling, and it's kind of eye painful.

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Just changing the plugs and wires won't take all day. Maybe a short afternoon....couple hours at most.

Remember to use some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs. You are dealing with an alum head engine.

An off line stumble could be a couple of things. I havent read all your posts, so if you would answer me this:

How many miles?

Condition of the throttle body?

Is the SES light on or do you know if any codes are present?

Have you ever done this before to any vehicle?

Do you know what type of gas was run in it before you got it?

A fuel system treatment may solve the problem if your injectors are dirty. You will find out soon.

SCdriver's technique works, but I do the first run with 1/2 tank and run down the interstate as fast as I dare.

I used the NGK V-power plugs and they are working well.

Another thing to consider (or at least check) is the condition of both dist caps and rotors if you really want to dive into it.

I changed mine the other week, it was worth the trouble as they were original with 160k on them (just like the wires).

It made a noticable difference in performance, fuel consumption and overall operation.

All that did take a good part of the day.

I ended up removing the p/s radiator hose to get the access I wanted, but the coolant needed to be changed anyway.

Please stop using ALL CAPS. People will think you are yelling, and it's kind of eye painful.

Hello thanks for replying back, I have gotten alot help from you guys and I really do appreciate it dearly. Okay,

first.

1). It has an 159,200 miles on the car; when I purchased it , it had 158,760 miles. And after driving it for about 60 miles and putting the medium grade gas in, and after that half a tank ran out that's when the problems occured.

2). The throttle bottle appears to be in great shape as most of the car is. The car is in about 92% in great condition

3). No the SES light is not on. The check engine light just flashes every so often and that's it!

4). And yes I have done this before, just not on a Lexus/Toyota. A product of Honda Accords.

5). And the previous owner always ran Premium gas the whole time. And I did not just this one time and look what happens.

And I will take SCdrivers advice and your advice as far as the caps and rotors. And I will stop using the CAPS all of the time, okay!!! AND TOO ALL AGAIN THANKS! AND I WILL TURN OFF THE CAPS, THANK YOU!!!

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1 - Noted

2 - What I am talking about is the condition of the inside of the throttle body. It is carboned up? Does it have caked on deposits that aren't allowing air to flow properly?

3 - If your check engine light is flashing, something is going on to set it off.

4 - Good to know, you are better off than a lot of people. The basic principle of changing plugs/wires is the same.

5 - Hmmmm.

You said it wasn't until you to to the end of this mid grade tank that the problems began to occur. I'm wondering if you got ahold of some bad gas and it needs to finish running it's course (out of the tank). It's not uncommon these days. The quality of gasoline has gone down steadily of the years. Do the fuel system cleaner trick and see what happens. If the problem clears up, you have your answer. Check the condition of the plugs before you do it. It may answer some questions.

Let us know what you find.

Z

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1 - Noted

2 - What I am talking about is the condition of the inside of the throttle body. It is carboned up? Does it have caked on deposits that aren't allowing air to flow properly?

3 - If your check engine light is flashing, something is going on to set it off.

4 - Good to know, you are better off than a lot of people. The basic principle of changing plugs/wires is the same.

5 - Hmmmm.

You said it wasn't until you to to the end of this mid grade tank that the problems began to occur. I'm wondering if you got ahold of some bad gas and it needs to finish running it's course (out of the tank). It's not uncommon these days. The quality of gasoline has gone down steadily of the years. Do the fuel system cleaner trick and see what happens. If the problem clears up, you have your answer. Check the condition of the plugs before you do it. It may answer some questions.

Let us know what you find.

Z

Okay Z, thanks!

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Just changing the plugs and wires won't take all day. Maybe a short afternoon....couple hours at most.

Remember to use some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs. You are dealing with an alum head engine.

An off line stumble could be a couple of things. I havent read all your posts, so if you would answer me this:

How many miles?

Condition of the throttle body?

Is the SES light on or do you know if any codes are present?

Have you ever done this before to any vehicle?

Do you know what type of gas was run in it before you got it?

A fuel system treatment may solve the problem if your injectors are dirty. You will find out soon.

SCdriver's technique works, but I do the first run with 1/2 tank and run down the interstate as fast as I dare.

I used the NGK V-power plugs and they are working well.

Another thing to consider (or at least check) is the condition of both dist caps and rotors if you really want to dive into it.

I changed mine the other week, it was worth the trouble as they were original with 160k on them (just like the wires).

It made a noticable difference in performance, fuel consumption and overall operation.

All that did take a good part of the day.

I ended up removing the p/s radiator hose to get the access I wanted, but the coolant needed to be changed anyway.

Please stop using ALL CAPS. People will think you are yelling, and it's kind of eye painful.

Hello thanks for replying back, I have gotten alot help from you guys and I really do appreciate it dearly. Okay,

first.

1). It has an 159,200 miles on the car; when I purchased it , it had 158,760 miles. And after driving it for about 60 miles and putting the medium grade gas in, and after that half a tank ran out that's when the problems occured.

2). The throttle bottle appears to be in great shape as most of the car is. The car is in about 92% in great condition

3). No the SES light is not on. The check engine light just flashes every so often and that's it!

4). And yes I have done this before, just not on a Lexus/Toyota. A product of Honda Accords.

5). And the previous owner always ran Premium gas the whole time. And I did not just this one time and look what happens.

And I will take SCdrivers advice and your advice as far as the caps and rotors. And I will stop using the CAPS all of the time, okay!!! AND TOO ALL AGAIN THANKS! AND I WILL TURN OFF THE CAPS, THANK YOU!!!

Hey guys, about your premium fuel situation. I have been researching alternate fuels and have put HHO technology on my car. With gas prices throught the roof I went to adding napthalene to my gas to improve octane. I found that 1 moth ball of pure napthalene (it has to be pure) per 5 gallons of fuel raises regular 87 octane to 97 octane for about $0.04 a gallon. I have been running my 92 sc400 on it for 8 months and it really runs great!

T.C.

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