1992LexusOwner

Welcome to the lexus club.... Do a BFI, Big Freaking Intake for starters, upgrade the exhaust to Magnaflow to 14289's, delete the 3 cats, maybe the resonators, put in a 10 inch X-pipe where the 3rd cat is, depending on how loud you want it, get a dragon torque converter for the transmission. Upgrade the struts and mounts, get some wider tires, change all the lower bushings, and finally the engine and motor mounts. Convert the cornering lights into fogs, and maybe a lowering kit of a inch. There are so many things you can do... Just read the forums, if this is your first SC. Keep an eye on the power steering for leaks, window regulators going bad, climate control display problems, cluster gauges going black, crazy idle problems, and trunk shocks going bad. This is off the top of my head! Lets help this new guy out!

Does anyone know of the listed led bulb numbers are or is there a interior kit for the car? Maybe a link? Slyvalnia website does not lists these! I am trying to replace the color to blue to match my climate control and cluster. Norm/Pow Button Heated Seats x2 Trac Button Volume knob Temp knob Odo/Reset lighting Window lighting, both sides

I sprayed my new filters with a little FeBreeze, not too much, just a mist on both sides, and on both filters. It smells great now!

I would be intersted in the side plastic trim on the lower part of both front seats. Dont matter what color, as long as they are not cracked or broken anywhere. I am in Athens, AL 35613, near Huntsville, AL. I also dont need the seat slide controls, just the lower panels, both seats. Thanks

Gone 142 mph on I-65 South from Hunstville to Birmingham.

Maybe this will help you. I replaced my water pump a few months ago, and on the backside of the water pump, there is a small rubber gasket behind there. If this has weakened, failed, or has gotten pinched from previous replacement, this would cause antifreeze to come out between the motor and transmission. I know from experience, it happened to me and I had to tear everything back down again. Maybe this is your problem! Check the other heater valve first.

I have a 1992, with the same size wheel size and tire size. Not sure of the offset though. I had to grind down the inside lip of both fender wells a little, then paint it, to keep it from rusting. No more rubbing. I have have the same type tires and love them..

I cant believe 35 people have looked at this, and no feedback... Has anyone ever modified their exhaust?

Omar, I am going to take a stab at this one. I think you can still use the factory phone, but you have to get it activated. Most cars with the built in antenna was a 3 watt phone. Cell phones originally was only 1 watt, so the signal strength was very low, resulting in a low signal and crappy reception. Go to your cell phone dealer or your local car stereo shop, and they may be able to help you further. The website www.lextreme.com and www.12volt.com, may help you in the wiring throughout the car, if you want to tackle this yourself. The antenna mount maybe stuffed under your headliner, I know my mine was. When I took out the phone out of the center console, to give me more room, I still heard the phone come on when I turned the key on, so I simply pulled the fuse under the hood, listed as phone. I hope this enlightens you a little more.

I have 1992 SC400. have several questions about upgrading the exhaust. The only thing I have done so far is knock out the current stock cats, the 2 in the front. It gave it a more throaty sound, not too bad, in my opinion. Could tell a little more top end power. My questions are.... 1. Should I remove the other cat in the middle? Why? 2. What brand of exhaust should I get? and why? Looking at Magnaflow? 3. What about a 10" inch x pipe behind the front converters? 4. Should I custom build a system form the cats back that works better? 5. Looking for something silent or quiet at idle, but sounds good when I step on it. Any thoughts or opinions would be great. Please be specific in replies, please... Looking at doing something in the next 2 weeks.

Thanks BSC300TT.. What exactly is the 5 wire? Lastly, are you syaing you havent located someone who carries the threshold switch? I may sound stupid asking these questions, just want to be clear as crystal.

Does anyone not know any further information on this antenna problem?

After further trouble shooting, I am getting real close in figuring this thing out. I reversed the blue and black wire on polarity and the antenna went down. Will keep you posted. Wish me luck...

I have a 1992 SC400. When I purchased the car, the power antenna never worked. I never could hear the motor running at all. I removed it and tore it apart and found there to be some broken plastic mask down in there. I took all the broken mask out and put it back together, without replacing with a new one. Still no luck... I wanted to first see if the motor worked or not. After searching on the internet and Ebay, I found a used one that come out of 1997. It was like new, when received, still no luck after plugging it in. I thought for sure it was just the motor was out on the original one. I decided to trouble shoot for 3 hours. I found out that if I bypassed the power wires, 1 constant, 2 when you turn the key on, going into the relay, to run it off of the remote wire from the aftermarket amplifier, it still would not work. Everything is getting power, by my test light. I then decided to put everything back, and cut the blue wire going straight into the motor. This is where there is only 2 wires, and its a funny looking plug that mounts upside down. I then ran a power wire to the amp again, and walla, the power antenna went up, but after I released the wire from the power source, the antenna stayed up. I cant get the thing to come back down. Does anybody have the wiring schematic for the power antenna, or know how to bypass this thing somehow, to work properly? Desperately will try anything.

Well let me know how it goes. You can get a whole roll of vacuum hoses from AutoZone, O'Reilys, or Advanced for nearly nothing. Make sure you take a piece of your original line in there, to assure you get the right size. I would replace all the lines while you are under there. Not too hard, just do one at a time. I hope the zip tie helps!

I had the same problem a year or so ago. I took apart the changer and cleaned the pinch rollers real good with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, then removed the lint from the q-tips with a microfiber towel. It worked again for another week, then it quit. I took it apart again and found nothing burned up, rollers still were clean, and nothing seemed to be out of the order. The radio still said ERR. The changer was clicking, like it was wanting to change cds, but wouldnt. I then decided to leave it be and replace the whole system entirely. Sounds much more crisp and cleaner sound with an aftermarket head unit, replacing all the speakers, 4 channel amp, and an ipod. Sorry couldnt help you much more. Heres the link to Lextreme for the wiring diagram for the entire radio system, if you decide to replace the head unit and factory amp. Hope this helps you out. http://www.lextreme.com/Lexradiowcd.pdf or http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html

I ran across these parts on Ebay, and wanted to share if anyone needs these. Over 220 parts! I also thought they were very good pricing compared to others. The link is http://stores.ebay.com/SLIDEGOODdotCOM_W0Q...Z16394479QQtZkm

The heater valve is on the passenger side of the car. Its mounted by one bolt on the firewall, I think. It has 2 vacuum lines to it. One of the Vacuum lines has a little black plastic valve in between them. Check that first. It may be clogged up. One of the ends has a bigger opening than the other. Also check for a vacuum leak, if theres a very small leak, it will not open, yet blowing cold air, and repalce with a new hose. Also check the 2 heater hoses to see if both of the lines are getting warm. If not, maybe your heater core is stopped up. Is there any amount of antifreeze in the floorbooard?

Whats the screen on the radio saying? Anything? Maybe ERR?

I found the link for you... www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

Let me help more about the fixing the water pump and changing all the things I mentioned in the first reply, including changing the plugs. Go to www.lexls.com... Look on this website for every step of the way for everything you need to do basically with hand tools on this car. But keep in mind, its for a LS400, not a SC400, but the motor and transmission is the same. Find the timing belt replacement and print off all the pages. Maybe 30 pages... It gives step by step instructions... even the torques for all the screws. Make sure you read the directions... Also make sure you have plenty of room to work, lots of stuff to be taking off. Take your time... You can do it !!!! Save you hundreds of dollars. The only thing different is the removal of the radiator... You DO NOT have to pull the radiator.... The last thing is, if you get to the crank pulley and cant get it off with an impact, slide a socket over the head of the bolt with the longest ratchet you have, preferrably a 1/2 inch or larger, and slide on a cheater bar over the ratchet. Wedge the cheater under the frame of the car somewhere, and bump the starter. DO NOT crank the car. Just BUMP IT !!! It will make your life alot better.. Its like cutting butter, and its old school method. That crank pulley has 182 foot pounds of torque... Thats alot. Also remember to make sure the ratchet is in the loose mode and NOT the tight mode, after you slide the pry bar over the ratchet. Good Luck and let me know how it goes if you decide, if you need help.... you know where to find me...

To answer everyones questions, I will get it checked tomorrow and see what gives, especially the control arm bushings. The types bridges I go over is just simple concrete ones that are paved. It feels like the car is swaying and its not too stable to me. Its kinda scary feeling sometime. The right tires I noticed yesterday, are wearing on the inside and a little on the outside, but not he left side, just the right side. The tires have been roated and blanced every 5K. It may need alignment, but I think its something more than just an alignment issue. I also have paid more attention to the rear part of the car, and it appears that the rear tires are going in toward the top more than the front. I know that my BMW is like this for better handling purposes, for the negative camber. Is this SC the same way? Or is it possibly struts and mounts going bad?

Many people who are knew to the SC's, have all basically been concerned with the ticking coming from the engine. This has been proven time after time to be normal, unless you here one side louder than the other... You can do further research about it, but they all same the same thing. Just wanted to tell you what I have read about the noise that I have been concerned with 2. Check out www.lextreme.com and click on Cams, shims and that annoying 1UZ-FE V8 tapping noise from the website www.planetsoarer.com.. It may be listed under previous updates category to help you read more about in great detail. Good luck and hope its nothing major, but you can fix it!!!

No problem, if you need further help check out www.lextreme.com or www.lexls.com.

My 1992 Lexus SC400 has a sway feel to it when going over bridges and different dips in the road. It feels like the back end is swaying. I have read post after post about the lower control bushings maybe be bad, or even the struts. Can it be the sway bar links? Dont want to replace things that dont need to be replaced. Lastly, theres a hard clunk in the left rear side of the car going over dips in the road. I noticed this morning that the right side sounds like its doing the same thing now. I changed the left upper strut mount with a new one and its still clunking. Is there a proper way to check this in my garage? Want it fixed... Dont like this feeling or noise anymore. Any advice?