BROWAR Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Hi I just recently bought ES300 96' . It had a new thermostat in the trunk. I found out after few days that car have a tendency to overheat. I took it to the PEP boys and they indeed recommended new thermostat. I changed it myself and ...still overheating. because this thermostat was from unknown source I decided to remove it completely to rule out one problem. Tested yesterday and it's still went hi on the gauge. I turned off and still added almost 1 gallon of antifreeze!. I decided to come back to PEP BOYS today for some more tests. After starting I drove for about 20 min (7 miles) with A/C on and it didn't went above normal range (gauge was right in the middle). They tested again. I suggested to check the fan, I felt that is not turning quick enough- you can stop it with your finger and it's not reacting on temperature raise or A/C on/off, just running with constant speed. PEP tech told me that the temp went higher that suppose to and the fan didn't "kick" into a higher gear and told me to replace hydraulic fan motor- 385$ quote from local toyota dealer. I went back home- temp stayed right in the middle all the way- and start researching for a better price on this motor (that's how I came across this forum :D ). Now I got a headache from all what I read- possible problems. After all I read it's most likely not a bad fan motor, more advices point at sensor... I don't know if I'm right. I checked water lvl few minutes ago, it's right under radiator cap but almost nothing left in the plastic tank. Any suggestion what should I check before I spend too much money? At least PEP BOYS excluded water pump, they didn't found any leaks and they don't think it's a head gasket. And there is no thermostat installed at this moment. I live in FL, today morning was 85... And also, any tips where to look for a cheaper parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BROWAR Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 OK let me do some update. I drove this car 2 times today, each time it didn't overheat with A/C off. secont time I drove for about 45 min in town with stop lights, slower traffic etc - no problems till for a last 10 min I decided to switch on A/C and I drove very slowly few times around the block. Temperature went up to aprox 3/4 position. Also before that I tried to "spin" this car a little bit, I press down 'power' button and got on about 4000 rpm for a few seconds. Car reacted great except the fact that the "check engine" light went on... Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbogosia Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I recently had an overheating problem after my upper radiator hose was replaced by me. Turned out that I needed to add the coolant to the hole where that hose enters the engine and not in the overfill tank. This assures that all the air is pushed out. Once I did this my overheating issue stopped immediately. Just fill at that hole until the radiator fills up, and your done. Just a thought. Good Luck. OK let me do some update.I drove this car 2 times today, each time it didn't overheat with A/C off. secont time I drove for about 45 min in town with stop lights, slower traffic etc - no problems till for a last 10 min I decided to switch on A/C and I drove very slowly few times around the block. Temperature went up to aprox 3/4 position. Also before that I tried to "spin" this car a little bit, I press down 'power' button and got on about 4000 rpm for a few seconds. Car reacted great except the fact that the "check engine" light went on... Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BROWAR Posted August 13, 2008 Author Share Posted August 13, 2008 Well, after 3 days of driving I checked coolant level (opening radiator cap not overflow) and it's full. Thats one good thing cause it's excluding leak. But like I mention before temperature is OK if I drive without A/C and I'm not stuck in traffic. And there is definitely problem with a fan because it's not going to a higher speed when engine is hot. I think I need to figure out which part of this hydraulic fan is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUMan Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The first thing I would check is a connector that plugs into the power steering pump. This connector carries a signal from the fan ECM (under the glove compartment) to the power steering pump. When engine temperature reaches a level where more cooling is needed, this connection causes the power steering pump to increase the cooling fan speed. Higher cooling fan speed is usually needed when the car is idling or moving slowly. Having the AC on would also necessitate more fan speed. I would also suggest that you go to a local auto parts store and get the Haynes manual for the 1992-96 Toyota Camry. Your car has the same engine as the Camry. There is a procedure described in this manual where you can check the change in cooling fan speed by bridging two terminals in the cooling fan ECM. When you bridge these terminals, the fan speed should increase. If it does not, you either have a faulty ECM or a problem involving the wiring between the ECM and the power steering pump. That being said, I would first check to make sure the connector is properly attached. It appears that this connector is often detached when power steering and/or engine work is done, and it sometimes does not get reattached. This causes the fan to run at the same speed all the time, regardless of the engine coolant temperature. This causes no problem as long as the car is moving at speed or when the weather is not too hot. But it can really cause a problem on hot days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMATSAAB Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 I assume your cooling fan is hydraulically controlled. Try unplugging the coolant temperature sensor for the cooling fan, located on the thermostat housing. This will force the cooling fan to run on high. If the fan does not run on high then either it could be the sensor on the back of the power steering pump or the cooling fan module located behind the glove box. If the fan does run on high after unplugging this sensor you have a bad sensor. Unfortunately, that sensor is a dealer item only and i could not find that aftermarket. It was about $80.00 two years ago when mine when bad. I own a 95 es 300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BROWAR Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share Posted August 14, 2008 I downloaded manual for Camry already, So far I checked relays and open glove box compartment- everything there seems to be fine. I will try to do those test you guys talking about today. I'm just hoping it's not a fan motor itself- it's 400$... But it's working on slow rpm so I assume it's ok. Thanks for advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BROWAR Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 TThat being said, I would first check to make sure the connector is properly attached. It appears that this connector is often detached when power steering and/or engine work is done, and it sometimes does not get reattached. This causes the fan to run at the same speed all the time, regardless of the engine coolant temperature. This causes no problem as long as the car is moving at speed or when the weather is not too hot. But it can really cause a problem on hot days. ...and you were absolutely right!! After checking all relays and sensors i finally reach behind the engine and bingo! found sensor connected to...nothing. somebody left the plug just hanging there :D :D I took the car now for an extremely slow ride with an A/C blowing at full sped and the gauge stayed nicely right below the 1/2. Looks like my problem is solved. Saved 550 $ by not taking an advice from PEP guys... Now if anybody have a problem with hydraulic cooling fan system I'm almost an expert ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulovesri Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 TThat being said, I would first check to make sure the connector is properly attached. It appears that this connector is often detached when power steering and/or engine work is done, and it sometimes does not get reattached. This causes the fan to run at the same speed all the time, regardless of the engine coolant temperature. This causes no problem as long as the car is moving at speed or when the weather is not too hot. But it can really cause a problem on hot days. ...and you were absolutely right!! After checking all relays and sensors i finally reach behind the engine and bingo! found sensor connected to...nothing. somebody left the plug just hanging there :D :D I took the car now for an extremely slow ride with an A/C blowing at full sped and the gauge stayed nicely right below the 1/2. Looks like my problem is solved. Saved 550 $ by not taking an advice from PEP guys... Now if anybody have a problem with hydraulic cooling fan system I'm almost an expert ;) Hi I seem to have the same issue, engine overheating. And i did the power steering fluid job with PebBoys recently! Can you please let me know where i can get this manual online, so that i can give a try. Thanks Sri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BROWAR Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 [Hi I seem to have the same issue, engine overheating. And i did the power steering fluid job with PebBoys recently! Can you please let me know where i can get this manual online, so that i can give a try. Thanks Sri I's i every first post pinned here. Here is the link: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=26449 And since you have 95' with hydraulic cooling system you have to download manual for Camry 1994 After you download it open tlll you see 1 adobe files. Open one named eg2 page 344-365 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Herbi Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Hi I just recently bought ES300 96' . It had a new thermostat in the trunk. I found out after few days that car have a tendency to overheat. I took it to the PEP boys and they indeed recommended new thermostat. I changed it myself and ...still overheating. because this thermostat was from unknown source I decided to remove it completely to rule out one problem. Tested yesterday and it's still went hi on the gauge. I turned off and still added almost 1 gallon of antifreeze!. I decided to come back to PEP BOYS today for some more tests. After starting I drove for about 20 min (7 miles) with A/C on and it didn't went above normal range (gauge was right in the middle). They tested again. I suggested to check the fan, I felt that is not turning quick enough- you can stop it with your finger and it's not reacting on temperature raise or A/C on/off, just running with constant speed. PEP tech told me that the temp went higher that suppose to and the fan didn't "kick" into a higher gear and told me to replace hydraulic fan motor- 385$ quote from local toyota dealer. I went back home- temp stayed right in the middle all the way- and start researching for a better price on this motor (that's how I came across this forum :D ). Now I got a headache from all what I read- possible problems. After all I read it's most likely not a bad fan motor, more advices point at sensor... I don't know if I'm right. I checked water lvl few minutes ago, it's right under radiator cap but almost nothing left in the plastic tank. Any suggestion what should I check before I spend too much money? At least PEP BOYS excluded water pump, they didn't found any leaks and they don't think it's a head gasket. And there is no thermostat installed at this moment. I live in FL, today morning was 85... And also, any tips where to look for a cheaper parts? I dont think you need to replace any thing just check the Din Cable underneith the engine some times it got disconnected while some work on the car . Its job is to control the speed of the hydraulic fan accordingly. Seems like your fan motor is not getting the right information due to cables connectors unpluged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spalkin Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Nice going! Aren't you glad you didn't just say "go ahead" to the new hydraulic motor?! Those things are in a sealed environment and never go out. Whenever you check your coolant, there's no need to open the cap. Just make sure that there's 50/50 in the reservoir. It takes when it needs and puts back when it doesn't. It's a great way to make sure you're not leaking. I recently changed out my radiator (easiest thing you've ever done) because the tab that holds the hydraulic motor had put a hair-line crack in the radiator. I ordered from Outlaw Radiator (I think they're nation wide). $130 and the owner brought it over personally the next day! Here's the link CLICKY Since the replacement, it's cooling very well. Over time, these radiators do slow down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstnlyrr Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 mine was the sensor and after i hooked it up it worked thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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