BROWAR

OK, but I just heard from junk yard people that you can't put 1MZFE engine from Camry to Lexus. You can do it other way around. Apparently Q type of this engine is exact fit only. Something to do with oil sensor- Lexus is drilled and tapped in the back of the block, Toyota's are not. Any opinions about that? Do I have to look for an engine from Lexus only? Thanks

Hi Are engines types exchangeable? What I mean is I have ES300 96' 1MZ-FE with problems piling up, I'm almost ready to buy one of the used engines from Japan.My question: Is that have to be that type of engine? 3VZ looks almost identical...

so what is exactly 'famous blue smoke" issue about? I have this problem sometimes in the morning, first few seconds got thick blueish smoke then its clearing out. I was blaming it on Florida's moisture in the air...

Found it, thanks. It was in fuse box, but when you open it while you are in driver seat you can't see it. There is diagnostic port in engine compartment but it's for lexus tool only.

don't really worry about it- as long as you're not mixing synthetic and non-synthetic. every oil comes from the same barrel from refinery, later they just name (and charge for them ) differently. It's like name brand and generic medicine :D

I got check engine light on for a while, I drove today to Auto Zone hoping that they can read that code for me. Unfortunately they couldn't find a diagnostic port where it's suppose to be: on the driver side below the "kick panel". Any advice?

I's i every first post pinned here. Here is the link: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=26449 And since you have 95' with hydraulic cooling system you have to download manual for Camry 1994 After you download it open tlll you see 1 adobe files. Open one named eg2 page 344-365

...and you were absolutely right!! After checking all relays and sensors i finally reach behind the engine and bingo! found sensor connected to...nothing. somebody left the plug just hanging there :D :D I took the car now for an extremely slow ride with an A/C blowing at full sped and the gauge stayed nicely right below the 1/2. Looks like my problem is solved. Saved 550 $ by not taking an advice from PEP guys... Now if anybody have a problem with hydraulic cooling fan system I'm almost an expert ;)

I downloaded manual for Camry already, So far I checked relays and open glove box compartment- everything there seems to be fine. I will try to do those test you guys talking about today. I'm just hoping it's not a fan motor itself- it's 400$... But it's working on slow rpm so I assume it's ok. Thanks for advice

Well, after 3 days of driving I checked coolant level (opening radiator cap not overflow) and it's full. Thats one good thing cause it's excluding leak. But like I mention before temperature is OK if I drive without A/C and I'm not stuck in traffic. And there is definitely problem with a fan because it's not going to a higher speed when engine is hot. I think I need to figure out which part of this hydraulic fan is bad.

OK let me do some update. I drove this car 2 times today, each time it didn't overheat with A/C off. secont time I drove for about 45 min in town with stop lights, slower traffic etc - no problems till for a last 10 min I decided to switch on A/C and I drove very slowly few times around the block. Temperature went up to aprox 3/4 position. Also before that I tried to "spin" this car a little bit, I press down 'power' button and got on about 4000 rpm for a few seconds. Car reacted great except the fact that the "check engine" light went on... Any opinions?

Hi I just recently bought ES300 96' . It had a new thermostat in the trunk. I found out after few days that car have a tendency to overheat. I took it to the PEP boys and they indeed recommended new thermostat. I changed it myself and ...still overheating. because this thermostat was from unknown source I decided to remove it completely to rule out one problem. Tested yesterday and it's still went hi on the gauge. I turned off and still added almost 1 gallon of antifreeze!. I decided to come back to PEP BOYS today for some more tests. After starting I drove for about 20 min (7 miles) with A/C on and it didn't went above normal range (gauge was right in the middle). They tested again. I suggested to check the fan, I felt that is not turning quick enough- you can stop it with your finger and it's not reacting on temperature raise or A/C on/off, just running with constant speed. PEP tech told me that the temp went higher that suppose to and the fan didn't "kick" into a higher gear and told me to replace hydraulic fan motor- 385$ quote from local toyota dealer. I went back home- temp stayed right in the middle all the way- and start researching for a better price on this motor (that's how I came across this forum :D ). Now I got a headache from all what I read- possible problems. After all I read it's most likely not a bad fan motor, more advices point at sensor... I don't know if I'm right. I checked water lvl few minutes ago, it's right under radiator cap but almost nothing left in the plastic tank. Any suggestion what should I check before I spend too much money? At least PEP BOYS excluded water pump, they didn't found any leaks and they don't think it's a head gasket. And there is no thermostat installed at this moment. I live in FL, today morning was 85... And also, any tips where to look for a cheaper parts?