1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15

[MIAGARE]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

[code58]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

It will function just like it did before the factory lock went bad. All you're doing is sending someone alongside to help it do it's job. The piggyback actuator will lock the door, the alarm will sense they're all locked and will arm like it's supposed to. (assuming your alarm is OK).

[MIAGARE]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

It will function just like it did before the factory lock went bad. All you're doing is sending someone alongside to help it do it's job. The piggyback actuator will lock the door, the alarm will sense they're all locked and will arm like it's supposed to. (assuming your alarm is OK).

Thank you code58,

one more thing I saw a set of 4 actuators in ebay for $21.00 including shipping, will those work or it has to be the one from the link at the start of the tread?

Thanks a lot for your help and to all the guys who do and contribute to the DIY, awesome, great, great, great help.

MIAGARE

[code58]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

It will function just like it did before the factory lock went bad. All you're doing is sending someone alongside to help it do it's job. The piggyback actuator will lock the door, the alarm will sense they're all locked and will arm like it's supposed to. (assuming your alarm is OK).

Thank you code58,

one more thing I saw a set of 4 actuators in ebay for $21.00 including shipping, will those work or it has to be the one from the link at the start of the tread?

Thanks a lot for your help and to all the guys who do and contribute to the DIY, awesome, great, great, great help.

MIAGARE

No Miagare, They don't have to be those actuators. There are a ton of places online and on e-bay that sell the actuators. I would suggest you get the "kits" though that come with the actuator,rod, mount strip and necessary screws. You will need those things so better to get the kits. Those may come with the actuators you mentioned but I would make sure in the description of them that they are "kits".

[cu00]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

It will function just like it did before the factory lock went bad. All you're doing is sending someone alongside to help it do it's job. The piggyback actuator will lock the door, the alarm will sense they're all locked and will arm like it's supposed to. (assuming your alarm is OK).

Thank you code58,

one more thing I saw a set of 4 actuators in ebay for $21.00 including shipping, will those work or it has to be the one from the link at the start of the tread?

Thanks a lot for your help and to all the guys who do and contribute to the DIY, awesome, great, great, great help.

MIAGARE

No Miagare, They don't have to be those actuators. There are a ton of places online and on e-bay that sell the actuators. I would suggest you get the "kits" though that come with the actuator,rod, mount strip and necessary screws. You will need those things so better to get the kits. Those may come with the actuators you mentioned but I would make sure in the description of them that they are "kits".

Hi code58,

I notice that the rear door actuator has four connections. I ordered the generic actuator which has two wires. What do the other two wires do in the factory actuator?

Thanks in advance.

[code58]

Do you know if this mod. will afect the alarm system? will the alarm work the same?

I think my alarm does not work if one of the door loocks is un-locked, I think it senses that did not locked due to the bad actuator motor, will the alarm get armed with this aftermarket actuators ?

It will function just like it did before the factory lock went bad. All you're doing is sending someone alongside to help it do it's job. The piggyback actuator will lock the door, the alarm will sense they're all locked and will arm like it's supposed to. (assuming your alarm is OK).

Thank you code58,

one more thing I saw a set of 4 actuators in ebay for $21.00 including shipping, will those work or it has to be the one from the link at the start of the tread?

Thanks a lot for your help and to all the guys who do and contribute to the DIY, awesome, great, great, great help.

MIAGARE

No Miagare, They don't have to be those actuators. There are a ton of places online and on e-bay that sell the actuators. I would suggest you get the "kits" though that come with the actuator,rod, mount strip and necessary screws. You will need those things so better to get the kits. Those may come with the actuators you mentioned but I would make sure in the description of them that they are "kits".

Hi code58,

I notice that the rear door actuator has four connections. I ordered the generic actuator which has two wires. What do the other two wires do in the factory actuator?

Thanks in advance.

The front door also has at least 4 wires, maybe more, I don't remember. You only have to worry about 2 of the wires, the others are to the sensor strips in the original lock housing. It houses a lot more than just the lock motor, that's why you have to leave it in place when you piggy back the new actuator in to do the job the old motor is no longer able to. If you're not able to figure out the 2 wires that you "T" into, I'll try to do that in the next couple of days and post it. The 2 wires you tap into simply switch roles (+ & -) to lock and unlock.

[jeffreyfrog]

Hello everyone, i'm a new here and this forum got my attention because i had the same problem...... Have you tried

:) http://avidlocksmith.com

Goodluck and hope that could help!

[code58]

Hello everyone, i'm a new here and this forum got my attention because i had the same problem...... Have you tried

:) http://avidlocksmith.com

Goodluck and hope that could help!

Are you sure avidlocksmith has anything to do with this problem? I doubt it. Do you own Avidlocksmith? Probably! ;)

[jeffreyfrog]

so are you looking for a straight answer?? you can try this one so it will lead you on what you looking..

arizona locksmith

[code58]

Hello everyone, i'm a new here and this forum got my attention because i had the same problem...... Have you tried

:) http://avidlocksmith.com

Goodluck and hope that could help!

Are you sure avidlocksmith has anything to do with this problem? I doubt it. Do you own Avidlocksmith? Probably! ;)

Jeffrey- If they're looking for a straight answer I think they have it. You own a Honda, other than trolling for business why would you be on a Lexus site? ;)

[Karch]

Hello everyone, i'm a new here and this forum got my attention because i had the same problem...... Have you tried

:) http://avidlocksmith.com

Goodluck and hope that could help!

Are you sure avidlocksmith has anything to do with this problem? I doubt it. Do you own Avidlocksmith? Probably! ;)

Jeffrey- If they're looking for a straight answer I think they have it. You own a Honda, other than trolling for business why would you be on a Lexus site? ;)

First time here. I actually have a Toyota Highlander (2003), that just started having trouble with the driver's door lock. Of course, this is 8 days outside of the extended warranty...no kidding!

The dealer wants about $600 to replace the door lock actuator, if that is in fact the problem. The one door (driver's) doesn't open/close with either the key fob or power switch, though all the others work fine (for now?).

I have read that I could replace the motor with a generic one. I tried to find the one listed on ebay but to no avail, though I did write the seller. I live not far from All Electronics, so I could by a motor there, or even an actuator, but is it fairly straightforward?

I am not new at modifying things, I am a car guy (this is the wife's car), but it's hard to see in there, though there is much more room than other doors I've worked in.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Code58, if your offer is open, I will gladly pay you for your time. I can pull the panel in about 5 minutes, now that I've done it, and I go to the O.C. pretty often.

Thank you.

[code58]

Any suggestions are appreciated. Code58, if your offer is open, I can pull the panel in about 5 minutes, now that I've done it, and I go to the O.C. pretty often.

Thank you.

Karch- Send me (post) an e-mail add. that I can communicate with you at. I tried to PM but it wouldn't let me. I have been out of town for over a week and couldn't respond from the computer that I was using.

Roger

[Karch]

Any suggestions are appreciated. Code58, if your offer is open, I can pull the panel in about 5 minutes, now that I've done it, and I go to the O.C. pretty often.

Thank you.

Karch- Send me (post) an e-mail add. that I can communicate with you at. I tried to PM but it wouldn't let me. I have been out of town for over a week and couldn't respond from the computer that I was using.

Roger

Hi Roger,

I am in the midst of this thing, as I bought the little motors posted earlier, and I am a bit stuck as I can't get the rod that the door latch moves out of it's holder.

I just noticed your response (I didn't get/see a response notification for some reason) and I can't pm you.

My email is n2golf@att.net, and I will be in Irvine tomorrow from 1:00 to about 4:30, as it turns out. I travel up/down 405, so I am nearby if (IF) you have any time.

I'll keep battling this for now, but if you have time, and I don't get done, I can sure use some assistance.

Thanks alot!

[upther]

I just did this on the front door of my 2001 RX and it works great. Took about 2 hours and a little head scratching but I feel good about the job I did. Thanks for all the advice.

[magicgsm]

Took me 40 minutes to fix both front doors, excellent job guys, thanks for detailed instructions and images.

[code58]

Took me 40 minutes to fix both front doors, excellent job guys, thanks for detailed instructions and images.

I can only say, magic, that if you fixed (long term) the 2 front door locks in 40 minutes, I would make sure not to lose that "magic wand". I would be very interested in how you did that? Whether you replaced with new locks, replaced the motors in the 2 locks with like type motors or used the aftermarket actuators that many have used, I don't see how that is even possible. Would you share with us how you did it. We're always willing to learn. :)

[artbuc]

Took me 40 minutes to fix both front doors, excellent job guys, thanks for detailed instructions and images.

That's amazing!!! It took me 40 min to get the panel off and another 40 min to disassemble the actuator enough to work on it, 40 min to mount and the actuator, 40 min to do the wiring and 40 mins to put the panel back on. Yep, I spent at least 1/2 day just on one door. Get 'er dun!!

[code58]

Took me 40 minutes to fix both front doors, excellent job guys, thanks for detailed instructions and images.

[/quote

I don't think "magic" is gonna share with us how he performed that feat. Could it be because it didn't actually happen? I'll leave that for you to ponder.

[meiying]

My husband brought my 2001 RX300 to his mechanic with the parts you all have mentioned here along with a printout of this entire thread. His mechanic was unsuccessful. He claimed that it would be difficult to keep the new part connected because the part inside the door looked like a half moon not like the one in the pictures you all have posted here. Anyone in the Miami area that could help us out?

[code58]

My husband brought my 2001 RX300 to his mechanic with the parts you all have mentioned here along with a printout of this entire thread. His mechanic was unsuccessful. He claimed that it would be difficult to keep the new part connected because the part inside the door looked like a half moon not like the one in the pictures you all have posted here. Anyone in the Miami area that could help us out?

Meiying- Do you have the ability to take a few pictures and post them. That would greatly help us in helping you. I am unfamiliar with the half moon that you are talking about. The last one I did was on an '03 and it was just like the '99 so I can't imagine that it is different. I tend to always have had a "can do" rather than a "can't do" attitude though. If you can't post the pictures, maybe you have a friend that could take and post them. Once you've done one, it's all down hill after that!

[meiying]

Meiying- Do you have the ability to take a few pictures and post them. That would greatly help us in helping you. I am unfamiliar with the half moon that you are talking about. The last one I did was on an '03 and it was just like the '99 so I can't imagine that it is different. I tend to always have had a "can do" rather than a "can't do" attitude though. If you can't post the pictures, maybe you have a friend that could take and post them. Once you've done one, it's all down hill after that!

He told my husband that he took a picture when he had the door apart so I am trying to get it. I will post it as soon as I receive it. Thanks for the offer to help.

[LexusRox]

I installed the L. front door piggy back actuator for deus85 yesterday. He lives close to me so it worked out and was a learning experience for both of us. Thanks to lmnop for putting us in the right direction. I used the rod that comes with the actuator kit and just flattened the end after I had cut it to proper length. I then drilled a 9/64 hole in the end (the size of the shaft that lmnop formed the small cylinder for). I drilled a 5/32 hole through the 2 walls of the plastic handle housing and used a very small flat file to put a slot for the flattened end of the rod through without enlarging the holes for the rod. Took a couple of minor bends to line the rod up with the male protrusion on the end of the factory lock cable. If I had the correct push-on keeper to keep the rod on that male protrusion I would not have had to be so careful about the size of the hole the rod went through. As it was I had to use the hole and mounting of the actuator to keep the pressure up on the rod enough to keep it on the protrusion. I was able to use just the single mount strip that comes with the kit to mount the actuator in the correct place. I twisted a wire pair (use aircraft safety wire pliers) and went forward and connected to the wires in the factory loom on the inside of the door high and maybe a foot back from the front of the door. It's very easy to tap in there and since it's totally dry there (I use 3M 90 degree taps) it worked out well. Didn't have to disassemble any thing in the door. This is the simplest of all lock piggy-back repairs. I wish I had thought of it when I did my DIL's- would have saved me a lot of work. Maybe deus85 will post pictures- he took quite a few and you should be able to see exactly what we did on the back side. Thanks again lmnop for an excellent contribution to this forum that I think will aid a lot of people. Roger

Here are the pics.

The first pic shows the close-up of the attachment site of the rod to the lock lever.

The second pic shows the overview of the front side of the lock lever and where the rod was placed.

The third pic shows where the actuator was placed relative to the lock lever.

Finally, the last pic shows the taps that were placed onto the two wires.

Roger did an amazing job!

Hi. This forum is awesome!!! I had this issue with my driver's side door. I want to thank everyone here for their very detailed instructions, pics and time. I definitely would have not figured this out or would even consider tackling this on my own. An independent Lexus shop here wanted $500 to fix this. But with the allelectronics.com actuator, it only cost me a total of $12.50, that included shipping, which by the way, only took 2 days to receive this. It took me awhile to install this, about 4 hours, but I was able to get it fixed.

The hardest part for me was to flatten out the end of the rod, drill and then bend in a way to attach, yet still be able to slide in the 2 holes that I had to drill though the plastic handle housing. I was having trouble keeping the flattened,drilled end of my rod onto the door lock switch. It kept pulling out. I guess I didn't have the right angle or pressure. First, I tried using hot glue on the end, but it didn't hold. Finally, I ended up using a *cable tie* around my rod and the existing cable attached to the lock switch. That seemed to hold the rod pretty tight without any movement out.

Anyway, I just wanted to give a great big thanks to all, especially to Indiana, lmnop, Code58 and deus85!!!

[tag16c]

The :rolleyes:FC 280PT-22125 motors are back on eBay for $9.99 :)

[Parker Lewis]

Hi everyone,

I joined this forum because of this topic. Thank you to Code58, Deus85, Indiana, lmnop, and all the others on this post that took time to give advice. I used the information here to attempt to fix the drivers front door on my 2001 RX300. I appreciate you all taking time to share your advice.

I set up my allelectonics.com actuator and used the same method as shown in Deus85's pictures on page 7 of this thread. The only difference with mine is that I tapped the two electrical wires down low near the OEM actuator, instead of near the switch bank like it's shown in the photos.

I do have a problem though - The door lock "flapper" near the handle now opens and closes as it should thanks to the new actuator, but my door still does not lock/unlock. I have to put the key in the lock cylinder in the door to get the door to acutally lock/unlock. I am thinking this is because the OEM cable with the grey fitting on the end (see the photo below, thanks to Deus85 for this photo, it's the second photo from post #96 in this thread) is no longer working properly? This cable is what acutally trips the locking mechanism, right? I had to drill the hole for the new actuator's rod very close to the exisitng slot for this grey cable, and i think the grey cable may have slipped out of whack, does that sound right to you guys? Would that be cause for the door lock not locking/unlocking when the "flapper" opens or closes? I am assuming that's why this grey cable cannot just be removed altogether as part of this fix, since it controls the physical lock/unlock mechanism.

I'll have to pull the door panel again and check it out. If you have any advice please share it here. Thank you!

[code58]

Hi everyone,

I joined this forum because of this topic. Thank you to Code58, Deus85, Indiana, lmnop, and all the others on this post that took time to give advice. I used the information here to attempt to fix the drivers front door on my 2001 RX300. I appreciate you all taking time to share your advice.

I set up my allelectonics.com actuator and used the same method as shown in Deus85's pictures on page 7 of this thread. The only difference with mine is that I tapped the two electrical wires down low near the OEM actuator, instead of near the switch bank like it's shown in the photos.

I do have a problem though - The door lock "flapper" near the handle now opens and closes as it should thanks to the new actuator, but my door still does not lock/unlock. I have to put the key in the lock cylinder in the door to get the door to acutally lock/unlock. I am thinking this is because the OEM cable with the grey fitting on the end (see the photo below, thanks to Deus85 for this photo, it's the second photo from post #96 in this thread) is no longer working properly? This cable is what acutally trips the locking mechanism, right? I had to drill the hole for the new actuator's rod very close to the exisitng slot for this grey cable, and i think the grey cable may have slipped out of whack, does that sound right to you guys? Would that be cause for the door lock not locking/unlocking when the "flapper" opens or closes? I am assuming that's why this grey cable cannot just be removed altogether as part of this fix, since it controls the physical lock/unlock mechanism.

I'll have to pull the door panel again and check it out. If you have any advice please share it here. Thank you!

PL - You are correct about the gray fitting in the end of the cable. I am the 1 who did that job for Deus. I believe the length of that inner cable is controlled by where you snap the gray end in the slot, from what I remember. If that is the case, it is not adjusted tight enough to unlock the lock when the inside "flapper" actually moves far enough. If you actually affected the slot so that the gray end doesn't fit tight enough to stay where you need to set it, you may need to try and use med. zip ties on each side of it (the slot) to hold the cable from moving back and forth and rendering it useless. remember to set the gray end tighter before you put the zip ties on (good and tight). If it then works, you may want to use some "hot glue" over the zip ties to insure they hold the gray end securely where it needs to be to function. Remember, the gray cable just snaps straight out of the slot and snaps in farther down on the gray part to adjust it to function properly. Good luck. Let us know how you come out.

In looking at the picture again, if the gray end is not holding tight enough in the slot, you may be able to use 1 zip tie from the inside (side you're looking at in the picture) and create a "choke hold" by running the cable around 1 side, over the inside of the bracket and in the same way around the other side before you tie it to put pressure inboard into the slot, using 1 long zip tie and no hot glue, since you could put some pretty good pressure holding it into the slot that way.