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Aftermarket Amp. Install


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Hello fello ES300 owners . I am trying to hook up a speaker system . I am trying to find out where i can connect the remote wire and power my amp. when I turn on the car. Anyone ever come across this and figured out the location or best way to tap into something to get pwr. to my amp. when car is started ? any replys & help appreciated .

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ok I think you can do a search and some one suggest a place somewhere where the fuze is. I tried that but for reasons that I already forgot I changed where it was connected.

What I did was pulled down the wires that are comming to the speakers/head unit. There I used a thin needle and tapped into each wire and determined if the power is 12v and if it goes off with ignition off (ALso it should go off when the head unit goes off as well). Then once i found it, i just tapped there. Thats about it.

The wires are found right over where the passangers legs are. The wires go to the head unit I think then some go to doors /back etc.

Hope this helps, Once you have it working, it will power up only when you have head unit on. Which is nice.

P.S. this was 97 es300.

good luck

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ok I think you can do a search and some one suggest a place somewhere where the fuze is. I tried that but for reasons that I already forgot I changed where it was connected.

What I did was pulled down the wires that are comming to the speakers/head unit. There I used a thin needle and tapped into each wire and determined if the power is 12v and if it goes off with ignition off (ALso it should go off when the head unit goes off as well). Then once i found it, i just tapped there. Thats about it.

The wires are found right over where the passangers legs are. The wires go to the head unit I think then some go to doors /back etc.

Hope this helps, Once you have it working, it will power up only when you have head unit on. Which is nice.

P.S. this was 97 es300.

good luck

Hey thanks for the advise . Yeah I have a 00 es300 . I was even thinkging about pulling the radio and finding a signal wire that way . so how does your system sound ? what kind of stuff do you have ?

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You just can't tap into any old wire that supplies 12 Volts, either switched or unswitched. You have to know the current draw(amperes) and other factors that the new amp requires. This is why a wiring schematic is needed.

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You just can't tap into any old wire that supplies 12 Volts, either switched or unswitched. You have to know the current draw(amperes) and other factors that the new amp requires. This is why a wiring schematic is needed.

you dont want amp to be on 24/7. Or some even dont want it on when car is started. My amp goes on only when the head unit is on. but if you dont drive much, i guess you can have it at any 12v that turns off when ignition is off.

i have 1 10" eclipse sub in sealed box in back, with a OK kenwood amp ( replaced my old amp that broke).

The line is tapped into the rear stock subwoofer and converted with 'line output converter" if you have aftermarket head unit, yo dont need to do it that way.

speakers etc are all stock. Sounds good for me. I just needed extra bass in back thats all.

Only complaint is that part under the back windows shakes from bass. Would need to dynomat it all , but too much trouble to go through. Licence plate shaking too ( going to put dynomat for licence plate soon).

Thats about it.

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  • 1 year later...

You just can't tap into any old wire that supplies 12 Volts, either switched or unswitched. You have to know the current draw(amperes) and other factors that the new amp requires. This is why a wiring schematic is needed.

you dont want amp to be on 24/7. Or some even dont want it on when car is started. My amp goes on only when the head unit is on. but if you dont drive much, i guess you can have it at any 12v that turns off when ignition is off.

i have 1 10" eclipse sub in sealed box in back, with a OK kenwood amp ( replaced my old amp that broke).

The line is tapped into the rear stock subwoofer and converted with 'line output converter" if you have aftermarket head unit, yo dont need to do it that way.

speakers etc are all stock. Sounds good for me. I just needed extra bass in back thats all.

Only complaint is that part under the back windows shakes from bass. Would need to dynomat it all , but too much trouble to go through. Licence plate shaking too ( going to put dynomat for licence plate soon).

Thats about it.

Where do you connect the line output converter? Back of the head unit or off the subwoofer leads?

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