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Posted

Replacing my lower control arm bushings with OEM. Daizens for the UCA bushings will be lubed with Sil-Glyde. Any reason to lube the rubber ones? It won't harm the rubber, but will it offer any protective or preventative benefits?

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Posted

Gumart, looks like your front end project is moving along. It really wasn't that hard to change everything out.

As far as lube I like the silicone spray. Not as thick so it doesn't attract dirt and grit.

My dos centavos.

Posted

Arkansawyer - Thanks for the reply. :cheers: I know you've been busy too. You're right, it's all very straightforward. The toughest part for me without an air gun was not to remove one part that might have been needed to provide some torque for removing another.

With 250k miles on my '91, I'm still amazed at how well these components have held up. Even with new struts with springs and cushions (converted from air ride) and lower ball joints, I still had some noises and wandering. Because of their age and visible wear and cracking to the rubber, I'm replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings, stabilizer links, stabilizer bar bushings, and strut bar cushions. I expect a smooooth ride!

My outer and inner tie rods seem fine, as does my steering rack. I understand there is a steering rack cushion but haven't checked mine out yet. Tranny and engine mounts (can't wait...) coming soon.

I have a friend who's shop will be pressing out my bushings today - hopefully there won't be any problem. Have you replaced yours, and were you able to press the new ones in yourself with a c-clamp?

The only component I am hanging onto are the $300 a piece upper control arms. With everyone's tip I decided that my upper ball joints are still good although with ripped rubber boots I'm sure their life will be limited.

Posted

I have a friend who's shop will be pressing out my bushings today - hopefully there won't be any problem. Have you replaced yours, and were you able to press the new ones in yourself with a c-clamp?

Yes I replaced the lower ball joint and lower control arm bushings. I had a local shop press the old ones out and press in the new ones for $10 each arm. I've pushed out old bushings before and honestly unless you have the right equipment its a bear.

I decided to leave the upper ball joints alone as they don't see the type of wear as the lowers. Also its so easy to pull that upper arm that if I needed to replace later it would be a snap. Figured while I was so far into the front replacing the lower ball joint I might as well replace the lower arm bushing. Don't figure I'll have to go back in there again.

Wait till you replace the tranny and motor mounts, you'll immediately notice the difference there. Make sure you allow yourself plenty of time to do the motor mounts. I was able to remove the driver's side mount from the front side of the engine. Take your time and it should be fine.

PM me if you have any questions.

Posted

Replacing my lower control arm bushings with OEM. Daizens for the UCA bushings will be lubed with Sil-Glyde. Any reason to lube the rubber ones? It won't harm the rubber, but will it offer any protective or preventative benefits?

Gum, I wouldn't lube the rubber parts. I don't think it would be a good idea to attract dirt, sand and all that other good stuff to the rubber itself, especially sand. Sand is a grain, and it won't break down but only so far. With the rubber bushings moving around, flexing and all of that stuff, sand will eventually just eat it's way into the rubber. I had a 94' Jimmy many years ago when I lived at the beach. The sand would get itself into the seals of the driveshaft "and other areas" and would kill the seals inside of 8 months. That car would not stop leaking because of it. I didn't lube my control arms when I replaced them. I do recommend however lubing the stabalizer bushings though, but that's a different kind of rubber...and as you know...a hell of a lot cheaper to fix! :cheers:

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