1995_ES300 Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 Well, I was going to replace my rear valve cover seal since it has a small leak, but after getting 70% of the way through it, I gave up as I would of had to remove even more than just the aluminum intake thing. Well, after putting the intake manifold back on with the stock metal gaskets, connecting the throttle body back up, and hooking the vaccum lines up, I have since gotten a check engine light and a slightly rough idle. When driving, all seems fine and even at a stop light it does not cause any noticable problems. Just when I put it in park, and the idling goes to about 700rpms does it sound and feel like it is sputtering. Almost like it is cammed or something and you can see the car jerk ever so slighly forward when it stumbles. Anyways, I triple checked all of my vaccum lines, and even marked what lines went where when i had taken them off of the engine...but everything seems right from what I could see. I came on here and noticed that a cracked intake tube would cause this, and wouldnt ya know, it was cracked halfway around and through possibly from me when I removed the intake manifold? I had duct-taped it up, but I do not think that worked as it seemed to have only helped a little with the idle issue, however that might have been wishful thinking at the time. I am not sure how well duct tape could have closed a gap as big as it was effectivly, especially since the split is within one of the valley's of the accordian pleats. Right now, I am sealing it up with some silicone and my question is, could this really be what is causing me this headache? Hopefully it will work, and if it does, i heard that it may take some time for the engine to re-adjust itself? What to do?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 A ripped intake will cause problem on acceleration but under normal driving/idle it is usually fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1995_ES300 Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share Posted March 18, 2006 some things to point out....I did clean up some carbon deposits on the mating surfaces of the intake manifold and wiped the gaskets clean before reinstalling. I also filled up some fuel rated at 87, versus the 93 I have been using with dedication for almost a year. Could this switch in fuel might have caused this idle issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toysrme Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Very unlikely. Stick to it sounds like "you have a vacuum leak". ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 new octane would not cause a bad idle bad gas could though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1995_ES300 Posted March 19, 2006 Author Share Posted March 19, 2006 ok, just had the codes read and the problems are the Mass Airflow Sensor P0100, Intake Air Tempurature Sensor (IAT) P0110, and the Fuel Trim sensor P0170. Does anyone else believe that these issues are related to that cracked intake tube....which seems to have screwed up these sensors? I sealed the crack up and replaced the tube. It idles much better now, however there is still a slight stumble. I reset the codes and about 20 minutes of driving later, the CEL came back on. Am I overlooking something? Or does it just take time for the computer to re-adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1995_ES300 Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 one more thing, is the MAF and IAT all a part of the same assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1995_ES300 Posted March 21, 2006 Author Share Posted March 21, 2006 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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