30,000 Miles Service - Do They Really Do Everything Listed

[luxury1]

I was at the dealership yesterday getting the 30k service. The advisor made a remark that made me think that some of the things listed under this service are just to make it look good and that it really isn't done. I am sure they do the oil change and such but do they really do the re-torque and all of the inspections?

Here is what is entailed for 30k:

Replace engine oil and oil filter, Replace engine air filter, Replace engine coolant, Replace Brake fluid, Replace air conditioner filter, Re-torque flange bolts, Fuel tank cap gasket, Rotate tires, Road test vehiclem Courtesy car wash and interior vacuum.

Inspect the Following:

Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank, vapor vent system hoses, fuel tank band, Fuel tank cap gasket, Exhaust pipes and mountings, Brakes: linings, discs/drums,lines, hoses, Steering linkages, Rack and pinion assy. For leakage, Ball joints and dust covers, Transmission, transfer case, and differential oil, Inspect body/chassis nuts and bolts, Active height control system

[luxury1]

Anyone have any comments on this?

[Rx330driver]

lol well...this is kinda hard to answer. I saw this the first time...and the thought that was running through my mind is "why wouldnt they". Couldnt you say this for anything that you have done by everyone? I highly doubt a lexus dealer will trick you.

[monarch]

They probably skip this step: "Re-torque flange bolts" and these inspections: "Fuel tank cap gasket, Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank, vapor vent system hoses, fuel tank band, hoses, Inspect body/chassis nuts and bolts," because it's almost impossible for any of these parts to develop problems until the Toyota is 10+ years old and more usually 20 - 40 years old.

[RX in NC]

Another bull*BLEEP* post from "monarch". Hopefully nobody's paying any attention to this guy anymore.

Hoses from ANY manufacturer can fail within 3 to 4 years, particularly if the vehicle operates in extremely hot or extremely cold climates. You should inspect your hoses every time you do an oil-and-filter change. Look for tiny surface cracks and put your hands on the hoses you can reach. If you can rub off the outer surface of the hose on your fingers as you're flexing it, that hose is in the early stages of breakdown. But don't confuse surface dirt or grease with a hose's rubber compound. Clean that hose before you perform the flex test.

Also, body and chassis nuts and bolts can begin to work themselves loose after just a year or two depending upon their design and quality, whether they were properly torqued at the factory, and also depending upon the condition of the roads you frequent and how many miles you drive. If you take your vehicle off-road, this issue can be one that must be dealt with on a routine basis.

SITE MANAGEMENT: This guy "monarch" delivers so much incorrect information on this site it's not even funny. Experienced owners and long-time LOC members probably see right through most of this crap, but very inexperienced owners may take his advice without questioning it since he posts so much. That's a real shame, and unfortunately a disservice to your membership.

[bowtie3]

NOTHING NEW! When I asked the service rep what is done at the 60,000 mile service on a 2000 RX300 she couldn't tell me. BUT she did say the 60,000 mile service was $500.00. She told me to check the owner's manual to see what is done. Anyway it says: change oil/filter, change coolant, change brake fluid, change cabin air filter, change engine air filter, and make " visual " under-car examination. The way I figure it : the parts are about $80.00 and the whole task should take about 3 hours. I guess this constitutes passing for " premium " vehicle ownership. If you have to LOOK it up yourself, you might as well DO it yourself!

[Grumpa72]

A number of years back I took our Acura to its one and only dealer visit to get a required inspection done. The list of required items was the usual oil, filter, etc. I looked at the dealer's 15000 mile check (I think - don't hold me to that number) and they had added lots of "fluff" to the list - check the framistator, retorque the flux capacitor, blah, blah, blah. The cost? Over $300. I told them to do what was required by the warranty manual and only those items. The response I got was something along the lines of "don't you want your car to stay under warranty and last a long time?" I replied that I felt that the manufacturer knew more about what was required to maintain the car for longevity and warranty than the dealer and to please proceed. I walked away owing less than $50. Never been back to the dealer, including doing my own timing belt change. The car now has 110,000 and is 12 years old.

Anytime I see things added to a required warranty inspection I get real suspicous of the service department padding the bill. I look at our '05 RX and see that very little can be done by me. I will however do my own oil changes and tire rotations. The funny thing is that the first oil/tire visit to the dealer was free and they only do a four tire rotation, even though the owner's manual clearly states that a FIVE tire rotation is expected. On top of that, they said the next oil/tire visit would be $150. I can do a five tire rotation and oil and filter change in less than 90 minutes. I would bet that if I bought a filter wrench that allows me to work from the top side, that I can cut this down by 30 minutes. As it is, I now crawl under the jacked up front end and remove the splash shield so that I can get to the oil filter.

Gary

[bowtie3]

A number of years back I took our Acura to its one and only dealer visit to get a required inspection done. The list of required items was the usual oil, filter, etc. I looked at the dealer's 15000 mile check (I think - don't hold me to that number) and they had added lots of "fluff" to the list - check the framistator, retorque the flux capacitor, blah, blah, blah. The cost? Over $300. I told them to do what was required by the warranty manual and only those items. The response I got was something along the lines of "don't you want your car to stay under warranty and last a long time?" I replied that I felt that the manufacturer knew more about what was required to maintain the car for longevity and warranty than the dealer and to please proceed. I walked away owing less than $50. Never been back to the dealer, including doing my own timing belt change. The car now has 110,000 and is 12 years old.

Anytime I see things added to a required warranty inspection I get real suspicous of the service department padding the bill. I look at our '05 RX and see that very little can be done by me. I will however do my own oil changes and tire rotations. The funny thing is that the first oil/tire visit to the dealer was free and they only do a four tire rotation, even though the owner's manual clearly states that a FIVE tire rotation is expected. On top of that, they said the next oil/tire visit would be $150. I can do a five tire rotation and oil and filter change in less than 90 minutes. I would bet that if I bought a filter wrench that allows me to work from the top side, that I can cut this down by 30 minutes. As it is, I now crawl under the jacked up front end and remove the splash shield so that I can get to the oil filter.

Gary

GRUMPA72,

Get the round metal type that fits over the end of the oil filter and has a socket in the end of it for a 3/8" ratchet. It's kind of octagon-shaped on the end that fits over the filter. There are many sizes so you'll have to trial-fit the old AND new filter you're going to use. Also, I've watched the Lexus dealer " techs " change the oil/filter on many vehicles by just removing a few bolts that hold the lower splash-cover on and then BENDING it down to get to the filter. It really tears it up and screws up the holes on the remaining bolt-holes. Also I get a " six-pack " of Mobil 1 [ I use the 10W30 ] at Costco for about $28.00 and a premium NAPA GOLD filter [ made by Wix, documented to be one of the best ] for about $6.00. While I have the RX300 off the ground, I spray all of the rubber chassis components with WD-40 to help prevent squeaks, etc. I get the WD-40 by the gallon at Home Depot for about $9.00 a gallon and then use it a plastic adjustable spray-bottle. You're right about the tire-rotation. I use an impact to remove the wheels and then a torque-wrench to remount and tighten them. I usually use " anti-sieze " on the wheel nuts, but there are people on this forum that recommend against doing that. I've used it in our cars and my trucks for at least 30 years and never had a problem. The tire-rotation takes about 20 minutes, while the Lexus dealer charges $90.00 for the hour they say it takes them.

[Grumpa72]

I currently change oil filters by using what looks like a giant set of pliers. I will check out the filter wrench and see what is available. I know exactly what you are talking about, though. I bought the "pliers" type because we have five cars, each one with a different filter size. I too am a Mobil 1 fan. As far as WD40 let me offer a suggestion. Go to: http://quantaproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=05-10 and read the description of PreLube 6. You will never want to use WD40 again. Then do a Google search for PreLube 6 and see that this stuff puts WD40 to shame. I have been spraying it on my suspension components of my 72 Corvette for years. No Corrosion! I don't know how it is for rubber products but it protects metal from the serious corrosion problems here in the northeast

You are correct that applying ANYTHING to your lug nuts is not an accepted standard. I used to have the web site of the SAE engineering group. The site talked about torque values with and without any modifier such as oil, WD40, anti-seize, etc. Anything you put on your lug nuts increases the chance that you will break a lug nut off. They should be dry, un-lubricated and then torqued to the proper value.

Gary

[blautens]

I usually use " anti-sieze " on the wheel nuts, but there are people on this forum that recommend against doing that. I've used it in our cars and my trucks for at least 30 years and never had a problem.

The reason you shouldn't use anti sieze compound and THEN use a torque wrench is that it is a lubricant. The lubricant changes the friction coefficient of the stud and lug nut, thereby changing the torque specifications you should use for your vehicle. It's a small amount, but it's different nonetheless. Keep them clean and free of rust and debris, and you shouldn't need to lube them, which is essentially what those compounds do most of the time.