camlex Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Hello, I just finished 170,000. I do oil change every 3000 with Castrol synthetic blend 10x30. Changing air filter every 15-20 thousand miles. drain and fill transmission every 15000 miles and change trans. filter at 30000 mile.Car runs like New. I did change TB @130000 with WP,Seals and Fuel filter. Please advise me if i missed something. Thanks in advance.
Lexusfreak Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Hello,I just finished 170,000. I do oil change every 3000 with Castrol synthetic blend 10x30. Changing air filter every 15-20 thousand miles. drain and fill transmission every 15000 miles and change trans. filter at 30000 mile.Car runs like New. I did change TB @130000 with WP,Seals and Fuel filter. Please advise me if i missed something. Thanks in advance. ← Last time you did a major tune up? Fuel system flush (injectors & such)? Throttle body cleaning? Other than that, sounds like your good to go cam. B)
jragosta Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Hello,I just finished 170,000. I do oil change every 3000 with Castrol synthetic blend 10x30. Changing air filter every 15-20 thousand miles. drain and fill transmission every 15000 miles and change trans. filter at 30000 mile.Car runs like New. I did change TB @130000 with WP,Seals and Fuel filter. Please advise me if i missed something. Thanks in advance. ← Look in your manual. There are a LOT of things that you didn't mention. For example, did you change your belts (including timing belt)? Fuel filters? PCVs?
Lexusfreak Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Look in your manual. There are a LOT of things that you didn't mention. For example, did you change your belts (including timing belt)? Fuel filters? PCVs? ← jr, he mentioned the TB already (done at 130k)....fuel filter & PCV are part of a major tune up (also mentioned). The 'other' belts however I agree cam should have checked out if not replaced already. ;)
monarch Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Possible items the car might need: 1. Drain and refill entire cooling system with 50% distilled water & 50% Toyota Long Life Antifreeze about every 3 years or 30,000 miles. Or just drain and refill the radiator except at more frequent intervals. 2. Replace cooling system thermostat and thermostat gasket if they are now 8 years old. Use genuine Toyota parts for another 8 years of reliability. 3. If the radiator has never been removed for exterior cleaning, consider removing it next spring to wash the bugs and dust out of the cooling fins. With the radiator out it is also much easier to clean the the bugs and dust out of the air conditioning condenser. 4. Replace engine drive belts if they have 80,000 or more miles on them. Use Toyota belts because they are metric for a perfect fit in the pulleys, plus reinforced to last another 80,000 miles. 5. Inspect front rubber CV axle boots for possible tearing and grease leakage. If you catch a torn boot before alot grease leaks out, you can buy a genuine CV boot kit from a Toyota dealer for only $30 per axle and have it installed. It comes with new genuine Toyota CV joint grease too. That way your factory original CV joints could last the life of the car because they were always kept properly lubricated and never exposed to water and road dirt. 6. Clean throttle plate 7. Replace spark plug wires if they are still the factory originals. 8. Replace oxygen sensor(s) ahead of catalytic converter if they still the factory originals. Sensor(s) behind the converter last twice as long so don't need replacing yet. 9. If engine develops any ticking type noise or a slight vibration at idle have the engine's valve clearances inspected and adjusted if out of spec. 10. Refreshen the old power steering fluid by sucking the old fluid out of the fluid reservoir using a 8 foot long piece of clear vinyl hose from a hardware store and adding back a similar amount of new Dexron auto trans fluid. Repeat 3 or 4 times over a period of days. 11. Replace brake fluid about every 4 years using about 5 pints of new factory fill fluid (genuine Toyota Brake Fluid available at Toyota dealer parts depts). Use the two man bleeding procedure listed in the factory repair manual or use the one man bleeding devices like "Mity-Vac bleeder" or "Motive Power Bleeder". Both are commonly available on ebay.
Lexusfreak Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Possible items the car might need:1. Drain and refill entire cooling system with 50% distilled water & 50% Toyota Long Life Antifreeze about every 3 years or 30,000 miles. Or just drain and refill the radiator except at more frequent intervals. 2. Replace cooling system thermostat and thermostat gasket if they are now 8 years old. Use genuine Toyota parts for another 8 years of reliability. Both of these items I agree with....however, Weird, my Lexus owners manual suggests the coolant be replaced every 2 years or 30,000 miles (50,000 kms). Dosen't a new thermostat already come with the thermostat gasket? At least the copy of the Toyota Gazette (Canadian Toyota publication we can request) states so. Why do you need such a long hose to suck out the PS fluid? 8ft long? & do this procedure 3-4 times in a matter of days? In addition to this, if your due for a tranny fluid change, it might be a wise idea to install a new tranny pan gasket & tranny plug gasket/washer as a preventitive measure to prevent possible future leaks. B)
camlex Posted November 25, 2005 Author Posted November 25, 2005 Possible items the car might need:1. Drain and refill entire cooling system with 50% distilled water & 50% Toyota Long Life Antifreeze about every 3 years or 30,000 miles. Or just drain and refill the radiator except at more frequent intervals. 2. Replace cooling system thermostat and thermostat gasket if they are now 8 years old. Use genuine Toyota parts for another 8 years of reliability. 3. If the radiator has never been removed for exterior cleaning, consider removing it next spring to wash the bugs and dust out of the cooling fins. With the radiator out it is also much easier to clean the the bugs and dust out of the air conditioning condenser. 4. Replace engine drive belts if they have 80,000 or more miles on them. Use Toyota belts because they are metric for a perfect fit in the pulleys, plus reinforced to last another 80,000 miles. 5. Inspect front rubber CV axle boots for possible tearing and grease leakage. If you catch a torn boot before alot grease leaks out, you can buy a genuine CV boot kit from a Toyota dealer for only $30 per axle and have it installed. It comes with new genuine Toyota CV joint grease too. That way your factory original CV joints could last the life of the car because they were always kept properly lubricated and never exposed to water and road dirt. 6. Clean throttle plate 7. Replace spark plug wires if they are still the factory originals. 8. Replace oxygen sensor(s) ahead of catalytic converter if they still the factory originals. Sensor(s) behind the converter last twice as long so don't need replacing yet. 9. If engine develops any ticking type noise or a slight vibration at idle have the engine's valve clearances inspected and adjusted if out of spec. 10. Refreshen the old power steering fluid by sucking the old fluid out of the fluid reservoir using a 8 foot long piece of clear vinyl hose from a hardware store and adding back a similar amount of new Dexron auto trans fluid. Repeat 3 or 4 times over a period of days. 11. Replace brake fluid about every 4 years using about 5 pints of new factory fill fluid (genuine Toyota Brake Fluid available at Toyota dealer parts depts). Use the two man bleeding procedure listed in the factory repair manual or use the one man bleeding devices like "Mity-Vac bleeder" or "Motive Power Bleeder". Both are commonly available on ebay. ← Thank you. Very good list of items to take care. I did forgot to mention that valve cover,spark plug and wire has been changed. Oxygen sensor: It's original , should i change it and why? Thanks,
Toysrme Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Good stuff. You'll have to, because as they age two things happen: 1) They read progressively richer causing the ECU to set the fuel trims richer than you want them too - you loose gas mileage 2) The responce time slows down & the ECU can't always set fuel trims fast enough to "be on the ball" - you loose more mileage. I've always thouht ditch them somewhere between 100-150 ,000m even if they seem OK. The only obvious way to tell they're wearing without actually testing them is to just wait until gas mileage is noticeable slipping.
camlex Posted November 25, 2005 Author Posted November 25, 2005 Good stuff.You'll have to, because as they age two things happen: 1) They read progressively richer causing the ECU to set the fuel trims richer than you want them too - you loose gas mileage 2) The responce time slows down & the ECU can't always set fuel trims fast enough to "be on the ball" - you loose more mileage. I've always thouht ditch them somewhere between 100-150 ,000m even if they seem OK. The only obvious way to tell they're wearing without actually testing them is to just wait until gas mileage is noticeable slipping. ← Not lately, i checked my milage. but longtime ago when i measured, it was 27 MPG on freeway. Also, which O2 needs to change? Thanks.
monarch Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Like Toyrme said, the average life is about 100-150K, but if you are mainly a highway driver they could last longer. The reasons to change them are to maintain optimum fuel economy. Everything you do to maintain optimum fuel economy will also prolong the life of the expensive emission system componets. So new sensors easily pay for themselves in the long run (for owners who plan to keep their cars along time)
ZINFANDEL22 Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Like Toyrme said, the average life is about 100-150K, but if you are mainly a highway driver they could last longer. The reasons to change them are to maintain optimum fuel economy. Everything you do to maintain optimum fuel economy will also prolong the life of the expensive emission system componets. So new sensors easily pay for themselves in the long run (for owners who plan to keep their cars along time) ← awsome info here gang it helped me out alot,and i didnt even have to ask.
Toysrme Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Pre cat o2 sensors on the intake manifolds control the fuel trims. The post cat o2 sensors just let the ECU know that the EGR & Cat are working OK =)
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