lexluxury Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 on an inspection some time ago, was told sway bar bushings need to be replaced (mechanic said they were sagging and oval shaped). took car to another mechanic to do some other work (he's lexus trained too) and he said the bushings did not need to be replaced, that they are supported by a bracket of some type [not positive, but he may also have said that there is some type of band around htat???] and that basically it isn't possible for them to sag. wtf? i was all prepared to have them replaced, and now he says it doesn't need it. confused. will be speaking with him again shortly...trying to get more info...if they are in need of being replaced, i want them replaced! i have heard others on this board talk of sagging sway bar bushings and/or oval shaped bushings, meaning they are 'worn' and need replacing. can anyone get back in the next few hours with info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 A sway bar bushing is a small dounnut that holds the bar to the frame of the car. The inner or hole can get out of shape and cause the bar to sag by having too much play in it. You basically need better technitions who will show you everything they think needs to be fixed first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluxury Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 Ah, now I can picture it. My concern is one guy saw it sagging and another one didn't. Doesn't sound that complicated to me..thank you. Also, he saw rear carrier bushings were worn/torn. Any idea of what reasonable amount of labor would be on that repair? That's why I'm getting that clunking noise. Thanks SRK!! A sway bar bushing is a small dounnut that holds the bar to the frame of the car.The inner or hole can get out of shape and cause the bar to sag by having too much play in it. You basically need better technitions who will show you everything they think needs to be fixed first. ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluxury Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 PLSE HELP -- one guy says the entire sway bar bushings need to be replaced, that I can't do just the bushings themselves (separately). does this make any sense whatsoever? i was quoted these 'entire' pieces at roughly 170 each. apparently there are left and right sway bar bushings? now, the 2nd guy, who says nothing's wrong, says just the bushings can in fact be replaced. who is right? please reply soon if possible! Ah, now I can picture it. My concern is one guy saw it sagging and another one didn't. Doesn't sound that complicated to me..thank you. Also, he saw rear carrier bushings were worn/torn. Any idea of what reasonable amount of labor would be on that repair? That's why I'm getting that clunking noise. Thanks SRK!! A sway bar bushing is a small dounnut that holds the bar to the frame of the car.The inner or hole can get out of shape and cause the bar to sag by having too much play in it. You basically need better technitions who will show you everything they think needs to be fixed first. ← ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Call the lexus parts department. Easiest way to find out other than going to visit one and see the exploded pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 Lexus has aftermarket rear carrier bushings they use now. if they recommend replacing the wheel hub itself...tell them to shove it! They used these aftermarket carrier bushings with my car, and it fixed the problem. Parts were like $40 bucks or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluxury Posted October 30, 2005 Author Share Posted October 30, 2005 do you recall how many hours labor you paid for (rear carrier bushings)? i'm getting quoted around 5 hrs, plus parts (aftermarket). his labor is really reasonable, compared to dealer. yes, he said what you are saying...that aftermarket are fine and make a big diff in price (650 v. 350 for rear carrier bushings). no mention of wheel hubs. he doesn't sell up, which has been my experience with the dealership every single time. i don't know why it never seems to occur to them that they're driving business away with that tactic, but it never seems to. Odd. Lexus has aftermarket rear carrier bushings they use now. if they recommend replacing the wheel hub itself...tell them to shove it! They used these aftermarket carrier bushings with my car, and it fixed the problem. Parts were like $40 bucks or so. ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluxury Posted October 30, 2005 Author Share Posted October 30, 2005 the 350 included parts and labor, if i didn't make that clear. i also confirmed that there is nothing wrong with the sway bar bushings. that's not what the dealer told me, but we went over it again and again and the indie mechanic said, "i'll put them on if you want, but there's nothing wrong here.' i have HAD it with my dealer. period. this last experienced just finished them off. do you recall how many hours labor you paid for (rear carrier bushings)? i'm getting quoted around 5 hrs, plus parts (aftermarket). his labor is really reasonable, compared to dealer. yes, he said what you are saying...that aftermarket are fine and make a big diff in price (650 v. 350 for rear carrier bushings). no mention of wheel hubs. he doesn't sell up, which has been my experience with the dealership every single time. i don't know why it never seems to occur to them that they're driving business away with that tactic, but it never seems to. Odd.Lexus has aftermarket rear carrier bushings they use now. if they recommend replacing the wheel hub itself...tell them to shove it! They used these aftermarket carrier bushings with my car, and it fixed the problem. Parts were like $40 bucks or so. ← ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 $350 doesn't sound that bad. It's not a very hard job if you have the right set of tools, of which most shade-tree mechanics "like me" don't have. So really what you're paying for is access to the tools. Screw the dealer. There are only one or two items you would ever want your dealership to do...period. That is unless you're covered under warranty, then always take it to them. But if not, then screw 'em. My personal preferrence for a dealership to get involved is for the transmission power flush. But, I would make damn sure you have it in writing that THEY recommend the flush. That way, if the seals start to leak in a few months due to the high pressure "as discussed a million times on this site" you have them on the hook. You simply say "YOU told me I should do this!" A week later, some ugly phone calls, and you've got another pwerflush and all new seals in the tranny....for the original price of the first flush. That is of course if you choose not to do the stuff yourself as suggested on this site from the guys who know. I think I paid like $600 for my carrier bushings to be replaced at the dealer, but this also included a diagnostic, and labor to replace my strut rods that I brought to them from Sewell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prix Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 thanks for the input. price sounded reasonable to me, and if the parts are that cheap, i don't see much point in trying to buy them on my own and taking them to him. don't know that much about the hazards of tranny flushes, but sounds like i'd better read up on it here. i say that because on my next service, that was what was to be included. wait a minute, maybe it was just changing tranny fluids. i'll have to check my records. anyhow, you kind of scared me with that tranny flush talk!! geez. good to know. $350 doesn't sound that bad. It's not a very hard job if you have the right set of tools, of which most shade-tree mechanics "like me" don't have. So really what you're paying for is access to the tools. Screw the dealer. There are only one or two items you would ever want your dealership to do...period. That is unless you're covered under warranty, then always take it to them. But if not, then screw 'em. My personal preferrence for a dealership to get involved is for the transmission power flush. But, I would make damn sure you have it in writing that THEY recommend the flush. That way, if the seals start to leak in a few months due to the high pressure "as discussed a million times on this site" you have them on the hook. You simply say "YOU told me I should do this!" A week later, some ugly phone calls, and you've got another pwerflush and all new seals in the tranny....for the original price of the first flush. That is of course if you choose not to do the stuff yourself as suggested on this site from the guys who know. I think I paid like $600 for my carrier bushings to be replaced at the dealer, but this also included a diagnostic, and labor to replace my strut rods that I brought to them from Sewell. ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 Sorry man, didn't mean to frighten you, and quite a few of the senior guys here would probably disagree me on involving the dealership for the tranny flush. There are ways to DIY, but it sounded pretty involved and messy. My personal opinion is that the extra $50 bucks for dealership involvement on power flushing the fluid is worth the piece of mind of knowing you've got the right toyota fluid in there, and that extra piece of mind of knowing that if the powerflush hurts the seals, you've the dealership to blame. Because if the powerflush does indeed hurt the seals, well, they should have known or at least warned you before you gave the go-ahead. Me? I'm just going to drain and fill my fluid 2 quarts at a time every 3k miles and slowing phase out the old fluid with new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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