Solenoid Filter

[rahlo1]

Hmm, the lock nut? It looks from the exploded diagram (in the LS400 maint manual) of the gear housing that there are two tubes on the driver side of the PCV: a return tube and a pressure tube. The one in monarch's pic is the pressure tube. Its not clear to me that this needs to be removed

←

I'm not real clear either whether this so-called "locknut" is really a locknut that needs to be loosened. I'm just going by what RFeldes said in his most recent post. Rfeldes is the first person who ever mentioned anything about a locknut - but who knows, maybe he's right. It's really hard to get a consensus about proper and proven procedures regarding this solenoid removal issue.

←

Monarch:

Have you tried to remove the solenoid yet?

I took a careful look around the nut and am pretty sure that there is no "lock" nut you mention to in your pic. Its a bolt on a hose that's connected to the PCV. The solenoid nut is free and clear.

So I think there is consensus. I am just having a heck of a time with mine: maybe it wasn't screwed on tight or has been on for 14+ years and is really frozen in there. I have ordered, per Threadcutter's suggestion, Kroil --- wd-40 and PB just haven't done anything thus far to help the situation.

Rahlo1 is really missing out on all this fun ;)

←

hello guys. I have not been on the site for a while because my fiancee was in an accident with my LS and totaled it. She was hurt pretty bad but she is doing much better now. Now back to the topic this was a very messy job because of the way I did it some people say hit it with a chissel or punch but that didnt work for me so I had to go this route. When I cleaned my screen I took the entire selonoid off by turning it counter clock wise and then simply pulling it off. Once the solenoid is off you will then see the long tube, turn the bottom of that tube counter clock wise and remove it be careful there is a small spring inside that can fall out. Once that bottom piece is removed you can look up the tube and see a small hole take a piece of clear tube about 1' long and small enough to fit inside the hole, now take your brake cleaner and spray it in the other end of the hose while the opposite end is inside of the tube. I used the entire can because there is no way to clean it with a brush, but be patient and use the entire can of brake cleaner. Just spay and let it work its way up the tube and repeat this over and over until the entire can is empty. This worked for me and I hope that it will work for you guys also.

P.S. I am currently in the market for another LS because that car saved my fiancees life. what a great car. I will post pics of the car after the accident soon.

[monarch]

Monarch: Have you tried to remove the solenoid yet?

I have ordered, per Threadcutter's suggestion, Kroil --- wd-40 and PB just haven't done anything

←

No I havn't tried yet. Kroil is definately better than PB Blaster, but an even better product for rusted bolts is Toyota High Performance Penetrating Lubricant available from Toyota dealer parts depts. in an aerosol can for about $10. Unlike Kroil, the Toyota product is a lubricant in addition to being a penetrant. So rusted threads and bolts come off easier with less risk of stripping the threads. Sometimes I use both the Kroil and Toyota product.

[rtd111]

Hmm, the lock nut? It looks from the exploded diagram (in the LS400 maint manual) of the gear housing that there are two tubes on the driver side of the PCV: a return tube and a pressure tube. The one in monarch's pic is the pressure tube. Its not clear to me that this needs to be removed

←

I'm not real clear either whether this so-called "locknut" is really a locknut that needs to be loosened. I'm just going by what RFeldes said in his most recent post. Rfeldes is the first person who ever mentioned anything about a locknut - but who knows, maybe he's right. It's really hard to get a consensus about proper and proven procedures regarding this solenoid removal issue.

←

Monarch:

Have you tried to remove the solenoid yet?

I took a careful look around the nut and am pretty sure that there is no "lock" nut you mention to in your pic. Its a bolt on a hose that's connected to the PCV. The solenoid nut is free and clear.

So I think there is consensus. I am just having a heck of a time with mine: maybe it wasn't screwed on tight or has been on for 14+ years and is really frozen in there. I have ordered, per Threadcutter's suggestion, Kroil --- wd-40 and PB just haven't done anything thus far to help the situation.

Rahlo1 is really missing out on all this fun ;)

←

hello guys. I have not been on the site for a while because my fiancee was in an accident with my LS and totaled it. She was hurt pretty bad but she is doing much better now. Now back to the topic this was a very messy job because of the way I did it some people say hit it with a chissel or punch but that didnt work for me so I had to go this route. When I cleaned my screen I took the entire selonoid off by turning it counter clock wise and then simply pulling it off. Once the solenoid is off you will then see the long tube, turn the bottom of that tube counter clock wise and remove it be careful there is a small spring inside that can fall out. Once that bottom piece is removed you can look up the tube and see a small hole take a piece of clear tube about 1' long and small enough to fit inside the hole, now take your brake cleaner and spray it in the other end of the hose while the opposite end is inside of the tube. I used the entire can because there is no way to clean it with a brush, but be patient and use the entire can of brake cleaner. Just spay and let it work its way up the tube and repeat this over and over until the entire can is empty. This worked for me and I hope that it will work for you guys also.

P.S. I am currently in the market for another LS because that car saved my fiancees life. what a great car. I will post pics of the car after the accident soon.

←

Hey Rahlo1, sorry to hear about the accident but truly glad on the life / safety element. Deserves a -- quite an ordeal I am sure and it probably won't be over for a bit.

Appreciate your attention to the Forum. And on the topic at hand, I have turned the solenoid to the point it wont turn any more. Plus its real tight and in-place, so not easy to pull out. I sense there is some kind of a rubber seal holding the solenoid in place. Not clear what that filter area mates into but it feels to me that something is holding it tight and I am fearful of simply pulling it down.

Maybe you can shed more light on the process of "pulling it off". Did you force it down and out? What tool did you use? ???

After you pulled it, were you able to remove the nut? Did you need to?

We may revisit your cleaning procedure if needed.

Finally, how did you get it back on? How did the solenoid "attach" back (and seal back) in place? THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT so please help -- please don't skimp on the details.

I have finished my flush, etc and got the car running. However, the solenoid remains separated but not detached (per my pic earlier). Its firmly in place though and hasn't budged in the 25 miles or so I have put on the car since. (3-6 miles per ride thus far.) I plan to get to it this Friday once Kroil gets delivered (tomorrow hopefully and I'll maybe also get the Toyota product Monarch mentioned -- can never have enough of this stuff). I also have a reco from Threadcutter on a local repair shop if all else fails.

Await your response. Thanx.

[rtd111]

SUCCESS at last. :D I've got the solenoid WITH the nut out. Out baby out. :whistles:

Let me summarize a couple of key lessons here, not new because it was mentioned in other threads on this post but worth summarizing here in one place:

1) Its a good idea to try removing the nut when the car has run a bit and everything is warm.

2) Assuming (1), you still may have to spray some loosener repeatedly, maybe day after day.

All the while when I was trying last week and earlier, the car had not even been cranked for 4 weeks or so.

I came back from work today and 10 mins later, the car was up on jack & jackstands, & left front wheel out. I tried punching the nut again with a screw driver but no luck. I felt the locking long nose pliers were giving me a better grip so I switched to that. But no go.

I then gave it a good long dose of PB (I choose that over WD40 in this instance -- hadn't got the Kroil or Toyota prod yet). A couple minutes later, I went at it again with the locking plier and hammered it 2-3 times firmly at the outer end of the pliers - not very hard but pretty firm, and viola, the nut turned. (I had done this many time last week and before to no avail, so no new technique here.)

I have this out now. Incidentally, the filter does not look very dirty: some particles but hardly clogged.

I had tried to remove the nut a couple of days ago and had used some WD40 then but the nut did not come loose in that attempt. A friend that does this kind of stuff on his boat every spare second he has said that the WD40 and the like may take a week or so to take affect. (He also suggested a small, directed flame but I would rather take it to a shop before going that route.)

So, Monarch, you can give this a shot. Should work.

CAVEAT: Follow caution when using the locking pliers. One of the high pressure hoses coming in from the front of the car into the PCV is too close so watch that the grip with the locking longnose. I tried the curve jaw also earlier; the long nose grips MUCH better. If it slips, it will hit the hose (which is metal) so watch for damage to that. Remember short strokes: lock, hammer, maybe a slip, release, relock, repeat. My hose has suffered some discoloration from a small number of bad locks / slips but no other problem -- I've run this car last 5 days and have been checking for leaks around here: none.

My other problem remains: the body of the solenoid is slightly separated from the nut, about 2mm gap. I can see there was a gasket there. I am waiting for rahlo1 to get back to see if I should attempt to separate it completely, clean and re-assemble. Though I don't know what's to clean in there. I would think its mainly electricals in the casing.

Thanx for bearing with me thru this loooong response: but I hope it will be useful to someone attempting this procedure. Now I need to go back and finish cleaning the filter.

[monarch]

rtd111 it was good to hear you got the solenoid off. You are the first person on the forum to report the solenoid filter screen wasn't filthy. Was your steering stiff or were you cleaning the screen as a preventive measure?

If you have time, I would really appreciate it if you could post a photo showing how you positioned the locking long nose pliers and exactly where you pounded on the pliers or nut to loosen the nut.

Also, if you post a photo of the 2 mm "gap" you are talking about maybe others will suggest a way you could close that gap without damaging the solenoid. Thanks

[rtd111]

If you look at my pic from the Dec 6 post, you'll see / can discern the gap underneath the nut. There is a white-ish hard plastic-looking cover, almost like a sealed envelop / cylinder that's visible from the gap. I guess I need to test the solenoid.

I carefully removed the filter from the solenoid: I held the plastic frame gently with pliers and slowly rotated the solenoid until the filter started to edge up. Once there was a gap, I used the top of a flathead to push around the bottom till it was reached a point on the shaft where I could simply lift it up and out.

The filter wasn't clean but it wasn't gummed up either, as reported by others. There was a bit of stuff there but I expected a whole lot more. However, I did notice on closer examination that 2 (out of the 6) panels on the filter had very small tears in the screen. That may explain it but again there were just a few black specs which I carefully removed with a soft paint brush and brake fluid. (I was tempted to use gasoline, which has worked well in cleaning such things but nobody seems to use that and heeded the advice on using brake fluid -- don't want to dissolve more than the dirt!). It would be good to put a new filter -- is this a bad call on Lexus' part around this whole solenoid issue? I imagine the rack rebuilders must be be using new filters. I think I am going to go to the Toyota dealer on Fri with the filter (and solenoid) and see what they have to say.

I've never really had a problem with hard steering before. And not since I got it going on Sunday after relacing the PSPump. I did flush about 7 quarts of fluid on Sunday until it looked as clear as the one I was pouring in (and it wasn't that bad to begin with -- last flush may have been at a service at 98K miles, currently at 145K).

Attached is a pic of the lock pliers. I hit the hammer both at the 2" spot (close to the jaw & just before the "neck") and at the 7-8" spot for leveraged impact. You need to insert the top jaw in my pic into the gap between the solenoid and the PCV as far as you can, then get the other jaw in far enough to lock into a firm grip: you'll have only about a 1/4" or so clearance from that hose I talked about. One of the jaws MUST be square on a flat side of the nut: better if both but this particular plier size I was using has too much of an angle between the jaws to squarely lock both jaws on the nut.

Hope this helps.

[AzHotLS]

Threadcutter, the picture Gumart1 posted is actually the DIRTY photo. It's a photo posted to the forum's gallery by 91LS400. Here is the clean photo: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0021.

Here is another before photo as the solenoid looks installed (notice no locking nut): http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0017. The locking nut must be a Gen 2 addition.

I just cleaned mine again while doing a front rotor/pad replacement. Back to easy turning again. On a bad note, the screen was filled with brass shavings. Not a good thing. My pump has been whining for some time so I know it needs to be rebuilt or replaced soon.

[rtd111]

It seems to me that the solenoid (which is below) the nut does and must come off. We've seen how the top part that has the filter and the nut seem to be a singly machined part. This makes the bottom portion mate the top: as rahlo1 explained via his removal process and where I was before I got the nut out. Rahlo1 talks about a spring which is clearly shown in the engineering diagram in the maintenance manual. (Which diagram, btw, calls the filter the "Spool".)

Of course, if the goal is to clean the filter, then we care only about the top part. Looking from the top thru the hole, you do see another very tiny hole inside of the "cylinder" or tube that goes all the way down into the solenoid; this hole is at about the level of the nut. The solenoid coil activates the spring which regulates the flow of oil thru the filter and into the PCV. It seems fairly obvious that if the filter is dirty or its screen broken, then the tube that houses the spring must also collect dirt and that might be worse because that dirt has no escape. And rahlo1 is probably talking about cleaning this part, not the filter because that, based on his explanation, was still with the nut and in the PCV housing on the rack.

I am, however, reluctant to remove the bottom part until rahlo1 can confirm some of this. I have been able to turn the bottom solenoid part back so its flush with the nut now but unclear what is "bonding/holding" the two parts together -- the two parts being the solenoid valve body and the part above the nut with the filter and gasket. I can't tell from the diagram that it is threaded. (I am unable to attach the diagram because I don't have enough attachment space available.)

Of course, I am going off the deep end here with this stuff. :chairshot:

[nc211]

Quick question, and pleae excuse me if it's a dumb one : When you take off these filter housings, does the powersteering fluid "atf" drain out too? I'm trying to judge the messiness of this project. Thanks guys!

[Threadcutter]

Quick question, and pleae excuse me if it's a dumb one : When you take off these filter housings, does the powersteering fluid "atf" drain out too? I'm trying to judge the messiness of this project. Thanks guys!

nc:

When you remove the solenoid from the rack, there will be about one half to one pint of P/S fluid that you should be prepared to catch. I just put my oil change tub underneath the solenoid and let it drain directly into the tub. Not a big deal (unless you have nothing under it & you want to keep your garage floor clean). The solenoid body will have a little bit of fluid in it, but not nearly as much as what will drain out of the lines.

Have a tub tub catch the fluid & a couple of rags handy & it's not messy at all. With the improvement I got after I cleaned the screen/filter on the solenoid, I wouldn't have cared if I had to swim in it!

Go for it!

[nc211]

Thanks guys for the information!! I will probably tackle this in the next few months. I flushed my fluid a couple weeks ago, and the steering firmed up a bit....a little too much I think. So I checked it yesterday....and it was way over filled. So I pulled some back out "engine was cold, not started yet" back to the cold setting.....steering like it should again. I simply had too much fluid in there...too much pressure. One finger steering again! Oh soooo nice. ;) But the screen I'm sure is due for a cleaning soon. Probably in the spring when it warms up.

[sapper_daddy]

rahlo1 says the solenoid nut does not come off. Gumart1 and some others says it does come off. Some say there are gaskets / o-rings that need to be replaced and other say not. This whole matter of removing the solenoid just gets more and more confusing.

hey i got the same leak on the rack and pinion and haven't taken the boot off to take a closer look. my Ls has about 200,000 miles on it and the steering is pretty tight excpet when at slow speeds there is a groaning noise (sway arm, or cotrol arm bushings???) and when i hit the brakes the steering wheel shimmies from left to right real fast (turn the rotors?) but yeah i don't really want to change the rack n pinion unless it's got too much play which it ain't bad, ii need to check it though, but if i did i guess i could change the engine mounts while i'm in there. Any one got any idea on how much a complete seal kit for the pinion is or should i clean the screen first? thanks

[AzHotLS]

Clean the screen first. A relatively quick and easy project.

Doubtful, but the leak could just be because of increased pressure do to a clogged solenoid screen. Groaning noise - is the fluid level good?, if you're low on fluid, it will groan. Either that or the PS pump is going bad and in need of rebuild or replace.

As for the shimmy, mine vibrates when the brake is applied. I changed the pads and rotors, no change. I noticed my tierod bushing is leaking so that is my next project. But with 200K, you could need motor mounts and/or tranny mounts regardless.

[sapper_daddy]

nahh it's not the pump that was replaced about teen thousand ago. it's a really loud creak exactly like stressing a thick peice of wood.

yeah i'll trying cleaning solenoid first, clean out the boot and surrounding area and see if it continues to leak

[nc211]

I recently uped' my tool inventory with a pheumatic setup. I got one of those air hammers that will hit at 5,000 wacks per minute. Would this thing be too much to use to get the solinoid off? I read on here about giving it a "good wack" to break it loose. How does a few thousand of them sound?

[RFeldes]

Probably would sound like a brothel~~~~~LOL Maybe a little too severe. Some come off easy and obviously, some don't. Try by hand first. Works for me... ;) WHACK<WHACK!!

[Threadcutter]

I recently uped' my tool inventory with a pheumatic setup. I got one of those air hammers that will hit at 5,000 wacks per minute. Would this thing be too much to use to get the solinoid off? I read on here about giving it a "good wack" to break it loose. How does a few thousand of them sound?

Would this thing be too much to use to get the solinoid off?

nc:

STOP!, you're scaring me.............

Aren't those things also known as "Ship Scalers"? You know, for chiseling barnacles off the hulls of boats that are in drydock?

When I removed my solenoid, I used a Starrett Machinist's punch that was between 3/16ths & 1/4 Inch in diameter and a small/medium ballpeen hammer. Nice thing is that it's very controllable & you're not likely to tear everything to shreds with just one hit of the hammer. It didn't take a lot of force to "break it loose". Once it is broken loose, it just unscrews by hand (quite easily).

Leave the compressor turned off & the (air) hammer in the toolbox.

[nc211]

HAHAHAA!!! Ok, ok...I'll stop.. The air hammer is a handheld tool that has a piston in it that bangs a punch, chisel or anything like that at a high rate of speed...kind of sounds like a Sig Ep frat boy !Removed! star. We're probably on the same page as I think this little gadget would be great at scraping barnacles!

Man guys..I stand next to the car now with a pneumatic impact wrench, air wrench and air hammer going "come on..break you little putz...I dare ya'! Who's your daddy now!" But I think I've already replaced everything that would require one of these tools.....guess I'm ready to add that 99' Chevy Tahoe to the inventory.....oh the wife's not gonna like this... <_<

[RFeldes]

We're going to start calling you "NC-HAMMER" :D

Edited January 5, 2006 by RFeldes

[Threadcutter]

HAHAHAA!!! Ok, ok...I'll stop.. The air hammer is a handheld tool that has a piston in it that bangs a punch, chisel or anything like that at a high rate of speed...kind of sounds like a Sig Ep frat boy !Removed! star. We're probably on the same page as I think this little gadget would be great at scraping barnacles!

Man guys..I stand next to the car now with a pneumatic impact wrench, air wrench and air hammer going "come on..break you little putz...I dare ya'! Who's your daddy now!" But I think I've already replaced everything that would require one of these tools.....guess I'm ready to add that 99' Chevy Tahoe to the inventory.....oh the wife's not gonna like this... <_<

nc:

You and your new airhammer reminds me of when I had a Ford F-350 One Ton Four Wheel Drive Truck. I swear that truck would climb a tree in compound low. I live in Northwest Washington & we get a huge amount of snow in the mountains in the winter. I entertained the idea of getting a set of FOUR tire chains so that I could get "way back in" on the "snowed in" (ie; Closed) logging roads & fire roads. I decide to try out the truck without the tire chains beforehand. Good thing...........

It didn't take long after getting it stuck the first time for it to occur to me how bad off I would have been if I had gotten it stuck another 20 miles in because I had the chains & could get that far off the main road.

Methinks that the further I get into a project on the LS, the smaller the tools I should be using. That way, I'll hit a point of diminishing returns before getting in over my head (hopefully).

Who's your daddy now!..........You're crackin' me up!

[nc211]

We're going to start calling you "NC-HAMMER" :D

Hahahaha!!!

'cause i'm 2 legit...2 legit 2 quit......can't touch this.....stop...bam-it-time.

some have said I have a case of dislexia....damn sure could of used these tools last year when trying to figure out those control arms and differential junk!

[RFeldes]

You're killing me!!! Goodnight "Hammer"

[Threadcutter]

You're killing me!!! Goodnight "Hammer"

RF:

As a relative "noob" on this board, I was just beginning to get comfortable with it...........

Looks as though nc's gone around the sharp part of the bend........kind of a shame......

"And he seemed like such a nice boy".............

[nc211]

Ok fella's, it's time for the screen cleaning..No air hammer to be used, unless of course i can't get the thing to break loose, then maybe a split second hit with it. Anyway, before I start, i just wanted to make sure I'm looking at the correct part on my car. Is this it in the photo?

[rtd111]

Ok fella's, it's time for the screen cleaning..No air hammer to be used, unless of course i can't get the thing to break loose, then maybe a split second hit with it. Anyway, before I start, i just wanted to make sure I'm looking at the correct part on my car. Is this it in the photo?

Yes it is.

Be sure to

a) use plenty of Kroil / PB Blaster / etc at least a couple of hours prior to starting work, AND

B) drive it around to warm up the system (of course, let it get to a workable warm before you begin)

Let us know the status of your filter / screen.