marathiboy Posted July 15, 2005 Posted July 15, 2005 greetings, I have 15k on car, do you recommend changing air filter on 2 year 15k car? When I lokked at it, it is all concealed and I understand that there is MAF sensor and all that right there, if I want to change it my self, what precaution i should take, also what is thegood brand of air filter? Do they need to be replaced or cleaned? Thanks in advance. Shailesh
vcv10guy Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 I believe you just inspect them every 15k and replace them at 30k. If it's dirty then just replace it with an OEM one for I think it was 20 or 30 dollars. If you want you could put a TRD air filter (which I have) or use a K&N air filter (there both drop in, no modification required). It's generally supposed to last longer ( just clean&oil every 40k) and help the engine breath better. Just bare in mind it costs more than the standard air filter, but it will last the life of the car if taken care of. There is no special precautions needed when changing the filter, unclip the latches and lift the airbox to lift out the filter. Be sure to vacuum out any dirt that's in the airbox before putting back the air filter. FYI - You should put the year of your ES300 in the "car model" section under the avatar on the side.
steviej Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 There is no special precautions needed when changing the filter, unclip the latches and lift the airbox to lift out the filter. ← actually, there are no clips on the 2002 air box. There are two 10 mm bolts that need be undone. You will find it easier to lift up the top section of the air box to get the filter out and new one in, if you remove 1 philips screw that holds the bracket on the back side of the air box. This bracket holds a hose on the back side. If you remove the bracket the top cover will pivet easier and higher making replacement easier. paper/fiber/foam air filters should be replace at least 1x year. Cheap investment for optimum mileage. there is major controversy and always a topic of two sided conversation when dealing with oiled high flow filters (K&N, TRD, AirHog, etc). They work for some and some feel it is no advantage and can even be detrimental. It all comes down to what each owner wants to do with their car. In any case, air filter replacement is one of the easiest DIY tasks on a car. Good luck. steviej
Toysrme Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Let's start off at the beginning. To each, his own - it's your car, float your own boat. To me... It's a total crock of dung on so many levels. Especially "performance" filters. 1) There IS no performance to be gained from the filter 2) A K&N costs me $40-$50. My f'ing TURBO was $60 SHIPPED. 3) My K&N went bone dry in less than four months. FOUR MONTHS. I question any "filtration" arguments's legitimacy for a few reasons. 1) It's... Basically hippo critical, without mentioning ignorant, to discuss the ability to filter particles, and dust out of the intake while the car is equipped with EGR. I laugh at any correlation to a few parts per million of "dust and dirt" being compared to pure, black, sooty exhaust 2) Barring the universe implodes, and gravitational forces reverse - there is no possible way a rock is going to jump behind the fender, and into the engine. Now, like I said. To each, his own. I hate all the performane filters. They're a total running joke for the reasons listed above. That's just my point of view, having strongly made such point of view, I'm done discussing filters now. I hate them LoL! ;) But do whatever you want. It's your car.
mscott Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 Toys, Just out of my own curiousity, what are your thoughts on design engineers implementing these numerous filters on these powerplants? Engineers are not concerned with revenue, so $$ generation can't be the reason. I'm just interested in theory vs. actual application. I'm sure there is theory and data behind the design. I'm also sure that you have practical application experience to guide you. What I'm looking for is as close to fact as possible in the real world -- not paper. Anyone else w/data to share, please... -- Mike
Toysrme Posted July 16, 2005 Posted July 16, 2005 The OEM's engineer them so the car will operate with mild modification (new fluids) from from -50*F in a blizzard, to 120*F in the middle eastern desert. The aftermarket is all about making money. The way it normally works, is the engineers make said product, then the marketing comes in during that time and scours them for selling points. Most of the time, it's just a replacement filter designed to be cheap. That's easy. Then you get into performance knock-off parts, which are cheap, but look like they do something. On top of the food chain is the real performance stuff. Some research, and design was done, but they wind up being mostly marketing hype. Like most things, it falls into that "allmost a good idea" catigory. Where it starts out a good idea, but simply doesn't work when it's done.
marathiboy Posted July 16, 2005 Author Posted July 16, 2005 Thank you all for your valuable infomation. It was easy to pull it out, and it was not that dirty (18k ) miles so i just low vaccumed it and put it back in. Thanks, Shaielsh
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