A/c Compressor

[akewlguy]

Get a good mechanic that knows AC units to check it out.. Should cost about 100 bucks for the analysis..

Also if you get the $20 dollar gauge and 134 kit you can hook it up and get an idea if freon is in system. Then if its a bit below add a ounze or two.

Good luck.

[VBdenny]

I will try charging mine and putting the sniffer on it. I got a diagnosis of a bad compressor but from everything I've read the ac light blinks when it is bad. Sure would be nice to have some ac again. I don't drive the car much when it is hot because of it.

[akewlguy]

Yeah it stinks to drive with out AC.. My last car had no AC and the car before that had no heat.. No heat in the cold is worse then no AC.

Reguardless I think the compressor is more often not the problem...

[fmpotter]

Yeah it stinks to drive with out AC.. My last car had no AC and the car before that had no heat.. No heat in the cold is worse then no AC.

Reguardless I think the compressor is more often not the problem...

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So what's the best way to determine whether it's the clutch that's defective or the compressor?

My compressor "had" been making a whining sound when you manually turn on the A/C. It sounded as if the bearings were grinding. Finally, it stopped cooling. I know it's leaking coolant because it will not hold a charge. I can't see a code on my internal LCD display because that is on the blink as well and there is no intermittent blinking A/C light. That stopped a while ago.

91 LS400.

[RFeldes]

For the clutch,

remove the connector on top of the compressor. Engine off. Apply 12v + and -to the two male ends on the compressor and see if the clutch kicks in. That will tell you if it still engages. I suspect the compressor is shot and the grinding is indicative of shavings in your system which means pulling a vacuum and changing the drier which is located behind the passenger headlight, as that is where most of the shavings will accumulate. Once you have a hard failure like that some compressor remanufacturers will not warranty the new one without replacing the condensor. A good ac mechanic can determine if the condensor was compromised by doing a pressure check.

[fmpotter]

For the clutch,

remove the connector on top of the compressor. Engine off. Apply 12v + and -to the two male ends on the compressor and see if the clutch kicks in. That will tell you if it still engages. I suspect the compressor is shot and the grinding is indicative of shavings in your system which means pulling a vacuum and changing the drier which is located behind the passenger headlight, as that is where most of the shavings will accumulate. Once you have a hard failure like that some compressor remanufacturers will not warranty the new one without replacing the condensor. A good ac mechanic can determine if the condensor was compromised by doing a pressure check.

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Thanks RFeldes! I suspect the compressor is shot. You brought up another couple of questions...

What are the percentages that the condensor is compromised?

What are the percentages that the expansion valve may also need to be replaced?

[fmpotter]

UPDATE: 91 LS400

Well I just spoke with a mechanic regarding my LS. I took it in and paid $40 for a thorough diagnostic A/C inspection and the results were that I showed leakage around my compressor and Uh Oh-ring. He recommended a replacement compressor, O-ring, low pressure switch, receiver-dryer, and to gamble NOT replacing the expansion valve.

Any suggestions before I decide to take on the challenge of installing the compressor and dryer unit myself? I have never done this and am also afraid to try to install the O-ring and don't know about the low pressure switch.

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined it's just that I don't know exactly which tools are required to maximize effectiveness and minimize the time I'll invest in this job. Thanks in advance.

[RFeldes]

Hi fmpotter,

Firstly, do you have the equipment to pull a full vacuum? My mechanic did a test on my condensor and did not feel the need to replace it nor the expansion valve. It is not about the tools but the labor and diagnosis are the problems. I supplied the drier and compressor and he charged me $400.00 for the labor vacuum and diagnosis. My condensor checked okay and I am in a cool cabin for three months now.

I was of the opinion that it was the wisest move, though i can turn a wrench, I just was not qualified to diagnose post install. Plus the compressor requires working from underneath unless you remove the radiator. Hope this helps.

[larryp]

Did my compressor and drier for around $450, including parts to convert to R134 and complete set of o-rings ($10 from Advance). It's not a difficult joband only requires basic tools - just time consuming. I did mine from underneath (had to remove oil filter to make room for removal) but that was easier than removing radiator. After installing all the parts and new o-rings, i took it to the mechanic and he pulled the vacumn and and recharged the system (BTW, took it to him before i started to have him recover the freon). Been cool all summer :D I wouldn't bother with the low pressure switch unless it's cheap or you know it's bad.

[dalega]

Thanks, Kennyr                I did check that ring ands its okay.

Thanks,Monarch              I know about the kits and that's how I would repair the old compressor if in fact it is the seal. But, Since I heard a "crunch" from the compressor a while back and it does quit intermittently with the blinking green light and I have to raise it above 2500 rpm to get it to stay on. I decided to just replace it anyway and go from there.

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Could someone please tell me where the AC filter dryer is?

Thanks.

[RFeldes]

The drier is located behind the passenger headlight.

[dalega]

The drier is located behind the passenger headlight.

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Thanks. I am looking in my 1992 Lexus Ls400 and I don't see it, what do I need to take off to get to it and to change it out? Is there a repair procedure available to swap it out?

Thanks.

Dale

[RFeldes]

remove the headlight, the procedure should be in your owner's manual for bulb replacement. Pretty straight forward replacement. Two lines (in&out) and make sure you have new o'rings.

[dalega]

remove the headlight, the procedure should be in your owner's manual for bulb replacement. Pretty straight forward replacement. Two lines (in&out) and make sure you have new o'rings.

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Thank you very much, saved me alot of time hunting!

DAG

[RFeldes]

Good luck Dag. Let us know of your success. Sometimes the extra mile takes us for a long ride.

[AzHotLS]

Well, add me to the club of failed compressors.

It worked fine on Saturday but stopped suddenly Sunday morning. I've read through this thread and the other A/C threads in this forum. A short while ago, I noticed something coming from the center vents and have an accumulation of film on the insides of the windows. But it has ben humid here lately as well as hot (all the time) so I attributed the "smoke" and film to that.

Took it to the indie shop I go to said the compressor has a "massive" leak, not anywhere specific. They said the compressor, dryer and expansion block need to be replaced, to the tune of $2,100!! :cries: With $1,250 of it being the compressor .

From what I see here, that sounds WAY too high. Rather than replacing the compressor, what are the chances it can be rebuilt. Since it just happened, do the dryer and expansion block really need to be replaced? How much should I realistically expect to pay?

I've done some work on the PS from what I learned on this forum but I think this would be too much for me to tackle.

[RFeldes]

You can buy a re-manufactured compressor on E-bay or at PACE in Tampa 813-888-7991 with the drier for around $400. I wouldn't worry about the expansion valve for now.

[larryp]

You can buy a re-manufactured compressor on E-bay or at PACE in Tampa 813-888-7991 with the drier for around $400. I wouldn't worry about the expansion valve for now.

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Agree. It's really not a difficult job - like everything else you do for the first time, it might take a while but you'll save mega bucks. Go for it and add AC expert to your resume.

[AzHotLS]

RFeldes/larryp, thanks for the vote of confidence, I may just have to give it a go!!

I wish I would have read your post a little more closely, larryp. While they were checking out the AC, I was due for an oil change and had them do it, bummer. I can keep the filter and a few bucks of oil is a small price to pay to save a bundle.

After installing all the parts and new o-rings, i took it to the mechanic and he pulled the vacumn and and recharged the system

How much did you pay? I was quoted $106 for evac/recharge, $70 for freon and $69 for flush. Is that fair? Is the evac or flush still needed given the leak?

I take it the o-rings are for the high and low pressure hose connections?

While I'm at it should I convert to R134 as well? I've read the posts, it seems to be a mix on those for it (without changing anything else) and those against.

Will PACE or anyone else want my old compressor or is exchange included in the price?

As I'm typing this, it occured to me I should check lexls's site, here are 2 how to's:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/air/, which I thought I would add in addition to monarch's photos and lextreme's instruction pdf post.

TIA. This is a super thread. It has just about all the information you need for replacing your compressor. Almost worth pinning.

[RFeldes]

Hi AzHOTLS,

You will definately need the evac/flush given compressor failure and if you want to change over to R134. Those prices seem a little high to me.

O-rings are on the high and low side and can be found at ,say, Autozone.

Pace expects the old compressor back and give you 30 days to do so or they will charge you $100.00 They also will try and sell you a condensor claiming they wont warranty the compressor without it, given compressor failure. My mechanic said I did not need it and that is a good thing because changing the condensor is a whole nother ball game. When PACE got the compressor back they checked it out and found no internal damage. Between changing the drier and a good vacuum/flush, I think you will be okay. Well, good luck and let us know how you do.

[larryp]

Got my compressor from Tech Choice in Texas for $270 (972-723-0112) although i think they mistakenly gave me the wholesale price. THere was no core charge. Got drier from ACpartsnow.com for $30.

Paid $180 to have system evac and then recharged. Got o-rings from Advance and replaced ALL of them. Also converted to R134a at that time and have had no issues. :D

[AzHotLS]

Thanks guys. Ill see if I can get the wholesale price too. I understand when to do the evac then recharge, would the flush be right after the evac and before I start taking the compressor out?

What if my compressor has internal damage? How would I tell if even possible? If so, does that mean I have metal bits and stuff in the system which means I should or have to replace the condensor?

[AzHotLS]

I haven't done anything yet, but I just left a message with Tech Choice to get a price.

But first, if someone has any insight to the questions in my previous post I'd be most appreciative.

Now for the new question.... I was re-reading this thread and noticed monarch's posting about the reseal kit, having read my posts, any chance this would work for me? About how much is a reseal kit?

[AzHotLS]

I know this is a long thread and I'm just getting in on it at the tail end.

Can anyone add insight to my questions above. TIA.

[larryp]

Remove compressor then flush. Also blow out the condensor and other lines with compressed air . Then put everything back together (with new o-rings) and add oil and recharge.

Not familiar with a reseal kit unless that means o-rings. Sounds something like radiator stop leak - if so, don't think that would be a good idea.

Good luck. Let us know if you have additional questions.