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Another O2 Sensor Question


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On the site that was posted in the other thread oxygensensorsDOTcom, how am I supposed to know which one to get. I need to replace Bank 1 and 2 Sensor 1. But on that page it has 5 different OEM choices.

I have a 99 GS300.

Kintaro

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The only difference are the harness lengths and the manufacturer. The first three are all the same except different wire lengths, measure the old ones. I think Denso is a better brand name. Call them on the Densos as they don't have any pics or try the crossreference. They are all wired the same so you cant go wrong there. B)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just an FYI. I got the Walker non-OEM sensors from the website mentioned above. They were about HALF the price of the OEM ones and the only thing is that you have to splice the wires because it does not come with the electrical connector. Splicing 4 wires on each sensor was worth saving over $50.00 for each one.

Kintaro

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For my purposes, I always recommend the correct, non-universal O2 sensors. Splicing of O2 sensor wires is not the best idea for several reasons.

1. The wire is stainless steel and it cannot be soldered. Also it cannot be soldered because of the heat usually present adjacent to the splice.

2. O2 sensors and the associated ECUs can be quite picky. We're dealing with millivolts in the circuit. One drop of water or a loose connection and you have the check engine light back on again.

To sum it up, O2 sensors do not often need replacement. Why anyone would sacrifice the ease and reliability of the "actual" plug-in solution is a mystery to me. As with other less expensive solutions, there is always a tradeoff; reliability being the most important here.

This is the case with homebrew cabin air filters as well. Choping up home air filters is just ludicrous. The cost for the correct part is not that much. Although some dealers try to sell you the $40.00 assembly, the informed consumer should demand the $15.00 element only. These are premium cars, not domestic junk. One of the reasons they are so reliable and a pleasure to own is because they were designed to be. Using the correct parts on these $40K plus cars is the least they deserve, I.M.H.O.

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i get it now LOL

But you have to be careful about "educational" internet websites like that. Typically these "educaional" sites are sponsored by an aftermarket parts or lubes company so that means they are biased against factory original parts and lubes. Notice, for example, the website in question mentions BOSCH oxygen sensors and recommends "replacement every:30,000 miles for the Unheated Sensors & 60,000 miles for Heated Sensors"

If the website was truly educational then the authors would admit factory original Asian car brand oxygen sensors like Denso typically last at least 120,000 miles. For obvious selfish reasons, these "educational" sites never admit stuff like that so the public ends up dumbed down, by, ironically, these "educational" websites.

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i get it now LOL

But you have to be careful about "educational" internet websites like that. Typically these "educaional" sites are sponsored by an aftermarket parts or lubes company so that means they are biased against factory original parts and lubes. Notice, for example, the website in question mentions BOSCH oxygen sensors and recommends "replacement every:30,000 miles for the Unheated Sensors & 60,000 miles for Heated Sensors"

If the website was truly educational then the authors would admit factory original Asian car brand oxygen sensors like Denso typically last at least 120,000 miles. For obvious selfish reasons, these "educational" sites never admit stuff like that so the public ends up dumbed down, by, ironically, these "educational" websites.

I agree with that about sensors lasting a long time. The manufacturers replacement interval is based on how long a sensor should last, on average, while still still performing to original specs. As O2 sensors age, their response time gets slower. The slower the sensors act the more gas you start to waste and the more crap you start to put out the tailpipe. It's a very gradual process, so normally it goes unnoticed. Only after the sensor is so old, slow, or fails to function entirely does the check engine light come on. Replacement at the specified (or user determined) interval is beneficial to both the environment as well as your gas dollars spent.

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