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Help With Nak System


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I have a 99 GS 400 with Nakamichi system. I wnat to add an aftermarket subwoofer amp and bypass the sub channel on the factory amp. In a previous discussion I replaced the factory sub with a Pioneer sub and custom made a sealed enclosure for it. I decided against this. Want to keep the factory look for now. I now have a 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect sub, which is suitable for free air hook up. It sounds much better than the Pioneer, but of course, I need more power to really get this sub going to its potential. Does anyone know the wiring color code or diagram for this Nak system. I know I have to run a separate power line form the battery only becaue the ones used in the factory system are too small. I can however, tap off of the on/off power line and the line level inputs. I just dont know wich ones they are! Any help would be great. Also, are there any adapters needed. I know how these special factory systems like to operate on their own special voltage and stuff like that. Thanks!

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Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Cause that's what you'll need for remote to your aftermarket amp.

Not true. you can use a switch somewhere up front or you can use a DMM to find the remote wire at the sub amp. Don't know the color code. <_<

The remote wire is exactly what I am looking for. I can probably figure the line level input wires. I am sure someone out there knows this info.

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That's the thing, no one seems to know or want to give up that answer. If you replace the sub and want to replace the amp, next will most likely be the radio.I chose an aftermarket radio cause it's got mp3, you can tune the low, mids, and high, and you can hook an amp to it. Last but not least.. it looks way better and sound better than stock.

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Well, you're in luck to have the Nakamichi. The Nak sends four seperate variable line-level signals to the amp. The Pioneer does not. The Pioneer sends only left and right line level, non variable signals to the amp. Balance and fading are controlled over the data bus between the radio and the amp.

You should try the P-L (Pink/Lt. Blue) ACC or the B-O (Black/Orange) AMP+ line from the Nak head unit to the amp for your turn on signal (.pdf page 1). Check each for how they work when the head unit is switched on/off.

Red RL+, Green RL-, Lt. Green RR+, and Violet RR- are the rear signal lines. The voltage of the line level signals is not specified. By the wiring diagram, they look like shielded balanced pairs. Converting the balanced signals (which are designed with two conductors per channel, and a shielded ground) to a single-ended one conductor and ground signal is a debatable issue. You may be able to directly use the + and - lines with no trouble. Depending on the design impedance and sensitivity of the amp inputs, you may find the signal level too low for your aftermarket amp input or that just tapping into them may introduce noise into the rest of the system.

nakamich.pdf

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Well, you're in luck to have the Nakamichi. The Nak sends four seperate variable line-level signals to the amp. The Pioneer does not. The Pioneer sends only left and right line level, non variable signals to the amp. Balance and fading are controlled over the data bus between the radio and the amp.

You should try the P-L (Pink/Lt. Blue) ACC or the B-O (Black/Orange) AMP+ line from the Nak head unit to the amp for your turn on signal (.pdf page 1). Check each for how they work when the head unit is switched on/off.

Red RL+, Green RL-, Lt. Green RR+, and Violet RR- are the rear signal lines. The voltage of the line level signals is not specified. By the wiring diagram, they look like shielded balanced pairs. Converting the balanced signals (which are designed with two conductors per channel, and a shielded ground) to a single-ended one conductor and ground signal is a debatable issue. You may be able to directly use the + and - lines with no trouble. Depending on the design impedance and sensitivity of the amp inputs, you may find the signal level too low for your aftermarket amp input or that just tapping into them may introduce noise into the rest of the system.

Hey, thanks for the input. I will give it a try. If all else fails, I will have to go to my local custom audio store, who I am sure can handle it. I just hate to pay someone else for something I can do. But if it becomes too complicated, I will have to. I know these factory systems can sometimes be difficult deal with. I just dont want to screw up something in the factory system trying to troubleshoot each wire to find the right ones. These upgraded factory systems tend to get all sensitive when you start bothring them. But there is always a way.

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You have all the info, so it don't get any easier, you'll just need to verify the back/orange with a DMM to make sure it's 12volts. You could use a relay if it doesn't have enough juice to turn on both amps. Other than that you have to decide if you want to use the woofer output at the amp you'll need a good quality line out converter, it may distort quicker, but will allow sub control at the deck if you have this option. Or if you want to go to the back of the deck and grab a preamp signal which will probably be cleaner, but you'll lose the sube control and may or may not need a line out converter. An audiolink Line out are about the best I've seen <_<

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You have all the info, so it don't get any easier, you'll just need to verify the back/orange with a DMM  to make sure it's 12volts. You could use a relay if it doesn't have enough juice to turn on both amps. Other than that you have to decide if you want to use the woofer output at the amp you'll need a good quality line out converter, it may distort quicker, but will allow sub control at the deck if you have this option. Or if you want to go to the back of the deck and grab a preamp signal which will probably be cleaner, but you'll lose the sube control and may or may not need a line out converter. An audiolink Line out are about the best I've seen <_<

Its funny you mentioned the remote on/off wire. I was doing some research trying to determine which subwoofer amp I was going to purchase. JL Audio has a line of mono sub amps that do not require a remote acc on/off hook up. The amp senses the audio signal from the audio line inputs and automatically turns itself on. Somewhat like how a home audio powered subwoofer work. This is a great feature and I think I am going with this audio. The amp also sounds great.

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