evelynvang

car will start but it idles for about 8 seconds and rpm stays at 0 then the engine cuts off if anyone knows this problem then please give me some advice thanks 2000 gs300

Exactly what I was thinking. You'll have to experience it first to find out. Or you could listen and save yourself a grip of doe in the end.

Honestly? In your shoes, I'd save a little longer and buy some high quality wheels. Anything you buy for $1500 (w/tires) will most likely be of a lesser quality than your Lexus.. ← I'd do the same. $1500.. you'll regret getting anything with that. Save up to around $3000-$5000. I got my set of 18's for almost $3000 and the ride quality is better than stock or the set of 18's I got last year for $1500 from Wheelmax.

That's the new Avalon? It doesn't look like a GS but that's a nice car. If it's front wheel drive then I want it.

That's the thing, no one seems to know or want to give up that answer. If you replace the sub and want to replace the amp, next will most likely be the radio.I chose an aftermarket radio cause it's got mp3, you can tune the low, mids, and high, and you can hook an amp to it. Last but not least.. it looks way better and sound better than stock.

It won't work with your stock head unit. You need to replace with a RF head unit in order to work.

Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Cause that's what you'll need for remote to your aftermarket amp.

That's a nice cean setup.

Go to autotoys.com. If it exist, they should have it.

I bought my gs last March and almost crashed it several times. The car can't make it up any type of hills, thats for sure. So forget about driving your Gs in the winter and get yourself a ES or a Honda for the winter.

I don't think it really matters if it's free air or not. Whatever you drop in there, that has higher rms, will sound better. Now add a better amp. And you'll really hear the difference.

Go with the 2001. It'll have a 3 yr/ 100,000 mile warranty.

Do not tow it. I exprienced it and the tow truck made a dent on my back bumper. Had to replaced the whole thing. If you have to get it to the shop, make sure you get it on a ramp truck.

Or you could do what I did. Take out the factory 10'' and put a box and subs of whatever size you like in the trunk. I tried replacing the 10'' but it just sounds like a 10 even with a powerful amp. Once you start, you won't stop til it's like your Honda.

It came with polyfil and like 92Lex said, it didn't help at all. I'm satisfy with the box though.

Got the 12'' sub box the other day(q-logic) I had the choice of leaving it sealed or make it ported. I chose ported. I took out the Alpine 10'' so I could push the box all the way back behind the seats.(a snug fit) This way there will be an opening for the bass to travel through into the car. My system is bumping now.

I got a Solo S2 and it works really good. (It also looks good to match my cars exterior color.) And I got it for $333.33 at Best Buy. I'll never get behind the wheel without a detector.

Ok I started this morning at 9:00. Since I took out the factory dash kit already all I had to do was put together the new dash kit I got from Autotoys with the new Pioneer (premier)460mp as the head unit. Which was a prefect fit. Then I strip the BLUE with yellow stripe and hook it to the Battery+ of the Pioneer, strip the GRAY wire and hook it to the ACC. These two wires are on the smaller plug that plugs into the factory radio. Don't worry about the other plug or wires. I then took out the cd changer so that I could have access to the amp. Unplug the bottom two harness(white plugs) from amp and strip: FRONT LEFT SPEAKER: PINK+, PURPLE- FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER: LIGHT GREEN+, BLUE- REAR LEFT SPEAKER: BLACK+, YELLOW- REAR RIGHT SPEAKER: RED+, WHITE- 10'' SUB: LIGHT GREEN with RED STRIPE+, LIGHT GREEN with BLACK STRIPE- I ran those wires from amp to the head unit. The head unit only has wires for the four speakers so I hooked the sub wires with the right rear speakers. It sounds way better than the factory system. It seems like the new head unit's internal amp is more powerful than the stock amp. I could always unplug the sub wires from the sub because I had changed the factory 10'' sub with an Alpine 10'' type S. Later on today or tomorrow, I'll hook up my new MTX 421D amp to the 10'' sub. I'm still waiting on a sub enclosure to get here so I could use my MTX 8512-44 with that amp.

Yep. That's exactly what I'm f'na do. I'll get it started and let y'all know how it's going.

There seems to be no plug and play wiring harness around so I'm going to attempt to hook it up the old school way. Vehicle Wiring color code on 2000 Lexus GS 300 RADIO MEMORY -BLU/YEL RADIO SWITCHED-GRY RADIO GROUND-WHT/BLK- RADIO ILLUMINATION-GRN/WHT+ FRONT SPEAKER SIZE-5 1/4'' FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER POSITIVE-PNK FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER NEGATIVE-NA FRONT LEFT SPEAKER POSITIVE-BLK FRONT LEFT SPEAKER NEGATIVE-WHT REAR SPEAKER SIZE-6 1/2'' RIGHT REAR SPEAKER POSITIVE-LT GRN RIGHT REAR SPEAKER NEGATIVE-VIO REAR LEFT SPEAKER POSITIVE-RED REAR LEFT SPEAKER NEGATIVE-GRN POWER ANTENNA TRIGGER-RED/BLK SECURITY INFORMATION STARTER-BLK+ TACH WIRE-BLK/YEL TACH LOCATION-MOD UNDER HOOD DR SIDE 28 PIN CONN PIN16 IGNITION WIRE-BLK/YEL IGN 2 WIRE-BLK/WHT+ ACCESSORY WIRE-BLU/YEL+ BRAKE SW-GRN/WHT+ SPEED SENSE-BLU/YEL SPEED LOCATION-PIN 5 CONN E4 IN BLK BOX DR. SIDE OF ENG WINDOW UP-LF:RED WINDOW DOWN-LF:GRN TRUNK WIRE-VIO/YEL(-) HEAD LIGHTS-RED/BLK(-)U HOOD PIN SWITCH-VIO/GRN(-) TRUNK SWITCH WIRE-RED/WHT(-) CONSTANT POWER-WHT/BLU+ TRIGGER-BODY MODULE DOOR LOCK-LT.GRN/BLK(-) DOOR UNLOCK-LT.GRN/RED(-) PARK LIGHT WIRE-GRN(+) HORN WIRE-GRN/BLK(-)

I checked the Kelly Blue Book and it's listed at $19,250 for trading in and $22,460 for private party, and $25,730 for retail. I got the same car and I got it for 30 grand with 43,000 miles on it. If that's all they're giving her down there, she should come to the twincities to trade it.

Once you take it out, you'll have to make your own baffle for it cause the stock one is built on to the stock sub. What I did was traced it onto a piece of wood (about the same thickness ) as the baffle, drill the screw holes, cut the middle circle for the sub and used clear sealent to glue it together. It sounds better than the stock sub when I hooked it to my stock head unit. But I'm going to use my new amp (mtx 421D) to kick it.

The back seat and side panels has to come off first. I took off mine and replaced it with a 10'' Alpine type S. It sounds way better than the stock sub. Took me about fourty-five minutes to complete the swap.

What a relief to hear that. Thought I had to splice them wires or something. Well, just waiting for all the products to get here. I'll post again after I recieve them and get it hooked up.