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It's kinda like how back windows have that child safety. But it's the front windows. Thank you.

Heck yeah! Happy endings are cool.

I've been marooned twice now using the digital key when RX350h wants to have the key fob touch the start button. Four months in and only a generic email from Lexus. Congratulations on the purchase of your 2024 Lexus RX HYBRID. You made an excellent choice and will undoubtedly enjoy your vehicle for many years to come. When you took delivery of your new Lexus, you were provided with one Smart Key and a second mechanical key, instead of two Smart Keys. This was due to the global semi-conductor shortage impacting certain microchips. Unfortunately, these shortages are still impacting the delivery of a second Smart Key. We will provide you with your second key as soon as possible and will notify you by first class mail when it becomes available and provide information on how to obtain your key from your dealer. At Lexus, we have a strong focus on our guest experience, and we acknowledge the inconvenience this situation may have caused you. We appreciate your patience and understanding as the global semi-conductor shortage continues and we work to provide you with your second Smart Key.

Having a problem, when its hot and the AC system is set to Auto, start the car and the fan does not advance to HI, this is my 6 Lexus all the others advanced to Hi, as well as 3 friends who have Lexus cars

Call your local dealer. Most have a technology expert on staff.

I had similar ride issues with my 2015. I had an alignment done by a reputable shop. No more issues. I do not have any cabin noise so not sure what that is about.

It seems I am having a similar issue, I just ordered some new NGK coils, wires and spark plugs along with OEM Denso fuel injectors, we have the same year make and model, mines idles high when warming up but after the warm up it is normal, however the misfires feel more like a stutter than anything, they don't feel that bad however it is noticeable and bothers me alot, I have CEL for P0300, P0301, P0303 and P0305, so misfires in cylinders 1,3 and 5. I hope everything I order will help me fix this issue if not then we will see, but I digress, if there are any people here who can give me any advice on why my car is still suttering that would be great thank you!

I'm thinking I'll add a fuse tap to the existing fuse. Important: After watching a long youtube video (below) if the solar pannel doesn't get enough sun then the charge controller will slowly drain the battery. Important: Fuse tap allows this all to be fused. However, fuse tap orientation matters, if it's hooked up backwards then both fuses are in series, not parallel. Connector types: - Fuse Tap - SAE 2-pin connector (also called SAE Connector Bullet or SAE Quick disconnect) Thought: A normally open relay could stop the parasitic draw. These are also sometimes called Voltage Sensitive Relays Could add a VSR Voltage Sensitive Relay to disconnect solar charge controller when there is no power coming from the solar panel. This might help with parasitic draw. This might be a bad idea because the relay could take a fair amount of the solar power to close... https://diysolarforum.com/threads/relay-to-shut-off-solar-panel.15331/ Maybe a latching relay would work: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/relays-nc-vs-no-or-other-solution.2267/ Seems like Harbor Freight has Thunderbolt Solar products that will help/make this easy: - Simple solar charge controller: THUNDERBOLT SOLAR 100 Watt Solar Charge Regulator SKU(s) 96728, 94048 $20 https://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-solar-charge-regulator-96728.html - Kit to help with wiring: $14 THUNDERBOLT SOLAR Solar Power Connection Cable Kit SKU 59171 https://www.harborfreight.com/solar-power-connection-cable-kit-59171.html - Small solar panel, could get 2: $15 THUNDERBOLT SOLAR 1.5 Watt Solar Battery Maintainer SKU(s) 64251, 44768, 68692, 62449 https://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery-maintainer-64251.html - Hub if I want multiple panels $18: THUNDERBOLT SOLAR 400 Watt Universal Solar Connector SKU 68689 https://www.harborfreight.com/400-watt-universal-solar-connector-68689.html Key thoughts and notes: 1. Need to make sure there is enough sun otherwise it's all a waste and will drain the battery FASTER 2. Use a charge controller 3. Use a fuse tap To prep, I'd need to find: - Best fuse spot to use - A good spot to connect a ground wire near the fuse block So wiring would go like this: Inside the car Fuse Panel -> Always on fuse (find with multimeter) Insert fuse tap to split power 10amp fuse for this part of the tap (original fuse for original fused connection) Cut the solar extension kit's SAE 2-pin extension cable and wire positive to the fuse tap and negative to the car ground so one end goes to fuse tap the other end has an SAE 2-pin adapter on it Possibly: Put a normally open 12V relay or Voltage Sensitive Relay in line to disconnect charge controller unless panel gets power. This would then be wired to the universal hub Connect SAE 2-pin to the charge controller's battery side Connect the SAE 2-pin charge controller's solar side to the solar panel universal connector hub (skip this if only using 1 panel and no relay/VSR from step 5 Connect solar panel to universal hub Important: Technically, if you're using more than 1 solar panel you should install a 1-way diode between the solar panel and the hub. This would stop backflow of power into the other solar panels which could cause a fire if one is faulty and the other(s) are cranking out a lot of power Do this at your own risk, these are just my ideas. Fuse tap: Buy local Some other links and thinking: https://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23079-Using-Solar-Charger-for-Battery-Maintain-Parasitic-Drain https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f28/battery-self-draining-because-of-charge-controller-15776.html Charge controllers draining the battery: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/should-i-worry-about-a-draw-on-my-battery-from-charge-controller-overnight.50004/ Video about charge controllers draining battery if not enough sun

Welp, I knew I should have cleaned the driver's side while cleaning the passenger side.... Driver's side flooded last weekend. However, now it was quick work with the experience of the passenger side. Doing it a second time around here are some pro tips: - Canned air from the top of the rail is a good start - Coat hanger is the way to go for the bottom - Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) can really kill any funk in the car. Driver's side tip: The accelerator Stopper Rod looks like it needs to unscrew, but you just pull the mat around it and it comes up. The carpet is just tucked in underneath. The driver's side carpet was soaked. I pulled it all up, put a fan underneath and it dried in ~20 hours (of being in the sun with fans on and windows cracked. Then I soaked the carpet and floormats in isopropyl, and completely doused them. I used at least a quart just for the driver's side and then used another 2 quarts for the passenger and rear carpets just to try to freshen up the car. Left for another 24 hours. No smell! This is gold & I'll use this trick again if I need to!

Did you find out the issue and can diy? I have same issue with nx 300. Seems Something behind the drawer and not able to close it.

Did you find out the issue and can diy? I have same issue with nx 300. Seems Something behind the drawer and not able to close it.

What tire size is required for lexus 2005 es330 model

The car normally operated all weekend, but upon heading home, the converse occurred. The car would not shift into upper gears. I thought I could "hobble" home at lower speed, albeit higher RPM. About 12 miles on the interstate, the exhaust started to smoke (no surprise), then subsided Pulled off, found an O'Relly's auto parts and they pulled the codes (attached). Cleared the codes in hopes it might function normally. I did NOT disconnect the battery per my mechanic over the phone. I did not want to continue to trouble shoot with a call full of people and luggage. So...I towed car back to highly acclaimed transmission shop--they open tomorrow. Consistent with RX400h (Dave) and other research, the findings are similar. Recall that there were no codes two days before. 9 Errors (attached) Solenoid's (pressure controls) (4), Shift (2),Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch (1), Cylinder 6 misfire (1), System too rich (1). I would like to understand the estimated cost and level of effort at a transmission specialist from this forum. Starting to do a bit more digging now... Hopeful from rural Illinois 🙂 Note: The family had two cars so we could bring things home from college. We swapped the clothing for people, I sent my wife and 3 adult kids home. I staying at my daughter's apartment while they look at the car, and reliving my college days 🙂 2024-05-10 Transmission Codes.pdf

so i will try to make this as short and simple as possible, I ordered a rebuilt rack and pinion from detroit axle, had a hell of a time getting it swapped out with the old one, after thinking i was done with the install I realized i didnt put new crush rings on the pressure and return line coming from the rack, that was mistake # 1. Mistake number 2 i bent and broke the banjo fitting that comes from the return line from the rack. So i was able to find a fitting inplace of the banjo fitting and connected it to the return side, no problems no leaks. Got the car put back together and it doesnt seem to much power steering and when turning the wheel all the way to the left it seems like the tire is rubbing? I double checked to make sure the rack was centered which it is, havent been able to have someone look while turning left to see what exactly is rubbing yet. Oh yea and in the process my wheel got turned or moved so the steering was off half a turn to the left when the wheels were straight so i disconnected the sliding yoke from the steering shaft and gave it a half a turn back to the right so the wheel was straight with the tires centered and now my telescopic steering wont work lol

sorry for the late response! The component is not available by itself, i had to order a new rack and pinion from detroit axle due to this part being broken

Relentless Motorsports in TX. Josh Beaumont - Owner / Technician There was a website. Let me know if you need his phone #.

Hey Dark Horse, I’m experiencing a similar issue with my ‘04. What shop did you use?

Another normal day, and bam I smelled something burning under the steering wheel area. Car still runs and drives but the hazards stay on regardless, Door Ajar light. dome light all malfunctioning. I've checked fuse after fuse and now my obd plug says it cannot connect. Sound like the ecm. I replaced the hazard relay fuse checked the turn signal relay and fuses all around any helps appreciated thx

Thanks Dave, that explains it well

I would squirt some powdered graphite into the key hole, then make sure the key goes all the way in. As it sits right now, try lightly tapping the end of the key with a hammer. If the car starts after that, the graphite will ensure that the problem does not reoccur for a long time.

I was wondering, seeing I may be due for brake service soon, why are the rotors on the rear are solid? I'm also wondering do the rear brake calipers have a piston on both sides of the rotor?