[Speedemon]

Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side

2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor

3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.

4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10

5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.
Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.

6. Clear the codes, and take a ride
if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on another site)  dlc.bmp (57.69K)
Number of downloads: 93, ignition off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.

7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.

Good luck

[PilotSmith]

Speedemon, on Feb 23 2009, 11:22 PM, said:

Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side

2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor

3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.

4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10

5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.
Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.

6. Clear the codes, and take a ride
if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on another site) dlc.bmp, ignition off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.

7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.

Good luck

Why does the code reader glitch the VSC? Jumping the TS and CG pins solves the problem but I was wondering if the VSC glitch is caused from a problem in my ultra cheap Harbor Freight code reader? Debating if I should return it and buy another brand. I like the Harbor Freight unit because it only cost $40 and in addition to listing the codes it also displays the text corresponding to what the code means.

[Speedemon]

PilotSmith, on Mar 1 2009, 08:44 PM, said:

Why does the code reader glitch the VSC? Jumping the TS and CG pins solves the problem but I was wondering if the VSC glitch is caused from a problem in my ultra cheap Harbor Freight code reader? Debating if I should return it and buy another brand. I like the Harbor Freight unit because it only cost $40 and in addition to listing the codes it also displays the text corresponding to what the code means.

Don't know enough about the code readers, but I've found multiple posts on different sites indicating that it doesn't matter what type of tester is being used, I read about someone using one of the more expensive Snap On units and it happened, it happened with the OTC scanner that I used, and more. Although it might have to do with the process from start to finish, when I used the scanner to initially clear the code to see if it was just a fluke code, cleared it and it stayed off for a while, it took about 10 minutes for the check engine light to come on, it did not set the VSC Off or Check VSC indicators at all when I cleared the codes I started with the vehicle running, clicked to clear the code and it said to turn the engine off and the ignition on and it worked without setting the light.

When I cleared the code again after reseating the connector, I went for a ride and the lights came on for the VSC as soon as I started moving, not sure how or why but when I cleared the code the second time I did not start it I only turned the ignition on and cleared the code, it might have something to do with the order in which you do it.

[bkls430]

Speedemon, on Feb 23 2009, 11:22 PM, said:

Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side

2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor

3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.

4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10

5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.
Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.

6. Clear the codes, and take a ride
if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on another site) dlc.bmp, ignition off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.

7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.

Good luck

[bkls430]

Hi,

I paid $500 to the dealer for the same sensor for the same car yesterday.
Good luck.

BkLS430

[lexophile]

bkls430, on Mar 10 2009, 01:41 PM, said:

Hi,

I paid $500 to the dealer for the same sensor for the same car yesterday.
Good luck.

BkLS430

Thanks to you all for the replies and I will be acting on your advice. As I am the the UK and everyone else drives on the "wrong side" of the road I must assume the sensors are on the opposite side to your descriptions. I got my sensor from Rock Auto in the USA it arrived three days before the one my dealer tried to get me would have been delivered. and at a fraction of the cost, even factoring in the postage from Tennessee!

[lexophile]

All is well now thank you gentlemen, I have no warning lights and no triangle of doom.

I cannot buy Seafoam anywhere in Europe. But I will get some from the USA and try it!

Thanks Card**** in PR

Thanks to all!

[calleserra]

Speedemon, you're the Lexus Guru! Thank you a million times. It fixed the problem on my SC430. I can't believe there's tons, and I mean tons of folks with the same problem and dealers were replacing ECUs for couple of grand!!! I've been to Clublexus and Tundra forums looking for a solution and so I thought I had the same fate. Thanks again.

[Speedemon]

calleserra, on Apr 14 2009, 11:53 PM, said:

Speedemon, you're the Lexus Guru! Thank you a million times. It fixed the problem on my SC430. I can't believe there's tons, and I mean tons of folks with the same problem and dealers were replacing ECUs for couple of grand!!! I've been to Clublexus and Tundra forums looking for a solution and so I thought I had the same fate. Thanks again.

Thanks and no problem, glad I could help, now all those people need to question the dealers methods and get some refunds, not likely but just another reason to ask for your old parts back, makes them think twice before really sticking it to you.

[mann777]

There was a TSB issued for most of the models, check it out.

Attached File(s)

•  TSB_for_LS400_on_Engine_Bank1_and_Bank_2_AF_and_O2_modification.pdf (94.32K)
  Number of downloads: 69

[snohman]

I got 2 codes po135, sensor 1 got it....but I got a po135 pd??? does anyone know what that means?
thanks
sn