lemon

I know Dawn dishwashing detergent (the regular blue colour, not the fancy colours) is used by detailers all over to wash a car before applying high quality wax. The Dawn actually strips off the old wax, but is OK for the paint (this is why you should not wash your car with dishwashing detergent by the way). You might try some Dawn mixed in water and a sponge to see if it will stip off whatever is on your dash. To protect the dash after, there are products that are low gloss. The other thing you may want to do is wear a pair of polarized sunglasses. The polarized lenses are amazing at reducing reflections.

Per the service manual (and the post above) 18 x 7, 35mm offset. I'd find another dealer as well. First of all, $820 each is a theft. Call the police. Second of all, if they don't know the offset (or can't call some Lexus dealer hotline to find out) then I can only imagine what else they don't know about your vehicle. By the way, kudos to Quebec for making winter tires mandatory. I only wish Ontario (and that moron Dalton McGuinty) had the foresight to enact a similar law. Yes, it's an added expense up front (initially) but long term, your summer tires will last longer saving you money. Aside from that, the money you save when you stop sooner and don't rear end the car in front of you or don't end up in the ditch, will more than make up for the expense of the winter tires.

Well, I've done some searching and I think the plug is holding back coolant. It's the coolant that circulates through the transaxle and the inverter.

The antidrainback valve keeps oil up inside the engine. It stops oil from draining down through the filter and into the oil pan. When I unscrew my filter, oil runs out from the upper engine as well as the oil filter. Why else would Lexus have the oil drain thingy under the filter mount. I don't see how you can unscrew the filter and not have oil run out from the engine. Are you sure it's not running into the catch tray thingy and down along the engine block etc. (maybe ending up in the splash shield?

I bought the car used. Trust me, if I'd had it since day one, the underside would look different. I use Krown rustproofing (yearly oil spray) on all my cars with very good results (and Krown is recommended by the Automobile Protection Association). www.krown.ca Other cars I've had since new and Krown'd looked like new underneath after many salty winters. Regardless, the RX is scheduled for a spraying next week.

My maintenance manual says replace hybrid transaxle fluid every 72 months or 96000 KILOMETRES. Same for the rear differential fluid. My vehicle has 117000 km on it. I bought it used at 115000 km. Did the previous owner have it done? Who knows? For the minor amount the fluid costs (and the fact I can do it myself and save on labour) it's worth it to me. The rear diff I've already done. By the way, the jury is still out on whether the WS fluid is full synthetic. Check at www.bobsitheoilguy.com Also do a google on the fluid. It's not highly regarded by many people. Despite this, I am using it because I don't know what else is compatible with it. If I could find another fluid (Amsoil, Mobil whatever) that I knew 100% was compatible, I would use it.

If u read your manual it says it there. I'm a car geek so i read every single page on my manual and know where everything is. How to reset the moonroof is on page 131 on your RX330 manual. He says he followed the instructions in his owner's manual. Must be doing something wrong.

Look where the wipers 'park'. You have to look really closely because the heating elements are where the windshield is dark. If you see a bunch of horizontal heating elements in the glass, you have the heated windshield. I 'think' all Canadian RXs have them, but I'm not sure about US vehicles. Here's a pic. The elements are not that visible with the naked eye, but the camera flash really brought them out.

Check here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=58822 for the procedure. It's near the end of the post. You'll also have to reset your windows so you have the one touch up and down, your memory seats, nav settings etc. etc. Just push the 'slide' switch toward the front of the vehicle and hold it there. The sunroof will tilt up, down (even though you're using the slide switch) then slide back and forth. Keep holding the switch toward the front while it runs through all the motions. When it finally stops moving, let go of the switch and all should be good.

I don't. I'm changing the tranny fluid, and I know for sure that the green circled plug is tranny fluid. I was just wondering what the other plug was holding back.

Hi all. I picked one of these up off an ebay auction. It's not the actual Lexus Service Manual (I have one on CD ordered), but it is 196 pages dedicated to the technology in the 400h (and it also shows the areas where the 400h is different from the 330 such as the different VVT-i tuning in the 400h). Anyway, it was cheap - $24, so if you see one on ebay, snap it up. In fact, the seller I bought from still has at least one more listed. Some interesting things I found: -I've noticed that after using the windshield washer, there's a 3 or 4 second delay and then the wipers wipe one more time. I always assumed that the rain sensor was sensing some left over wiper spray and was causing this. It turns out the wipers are programmed to give one more wipe after a few seconds (depends on speed of vehicle) to take care of any drips that might be running down from overspray. Makes sense, as I used to have to manually wipe the windshield on all other cars I've owned to take care of overspray running back down the windshield -the gas tank in the 400h is 2mm thick vs 6mm on the 330, however, the 400h has lead and tin alloy plating vs plastic on the 330 -the maximum closing timing of the intake valve has been retarded 64 degrees to 92 degrees ABDC (after bottom dead centre) which reduces the effective cylinder capacity and temporarily lowers the combustion pressure, reducing the vibrations created during the start of the engine. This must be the change to the VVTi I've heard about that reduces the power of the gas engine compared to the 330. Must have been required because of all the engine starts. A little vibration on a 330 when starting once or twice a day might not have been noticeable, but multiple starts every the vehicle is in motion must have been too noticeable. There's much more, but the post would be 196 pages long if I went on. If there's something specific somebody wants, let me know and I'll see if it's in the manual. It's full of specifications and there's also a list of all the options that can be changed (like how long the interior lights stay on, having the power door powered when you manually use the latch, etc.

The drain plug circled in GREEN is the drain plug for the transmission fluid. The fill plug you can't see - it's above and toward the rear of the drain plug. What I'm wondering is what the drain plug circled in RED is for? It's obviously part of the transmission as well. I don't want to remove it and have something important drain out that I don't know how to refill. Both plugs are the same size and you need an allen key (or allen socket) to remove them.

There's an oil change DIY for an RX330 here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=21979 but I think the underside of the 400h is a bit different (either that or I'm missing a really big splash shield - can someone confirm if the underside of their 400h looks the same as mine, please (i.e just the one splash shield that hides the oil filter, unlike the 330 which has two splash shields - one for the oil pan drain bolt and one for the filter). Thanks. So, assuming my RX is not missing a splash shield, here's a quick DIY (note that I didn't actually drain the oil or remove the filter, as I had just done that recently but hadn't taken pictures) 1. Remove the underbody splash shield (there are eight 10mm bolts and two plastic clips) Four bolts here - Two bolts and one plastic clip one the left and right side of the shield - driver side - - passenger side - 2. Remove oil pan drain bolt (here is where I 'think' we don't have a plastic shield and the RX330 does and let oil drain into drain pan (not the sewer or side of the road) 3. Move drain pan to under filter and remove filter. If your pan is big enough, you can remove filter while the oil is still dribbling out of the oil pan Notice those crafty Japanese engineers have added a drain channel thingamajig to direct the oil that will leak out when you remove the filter. This helps prevent oil from running all down the outside of the engine. 4. No pics for this next part as I had done the oil change before taking the pictures, but screw on a new oil filter (make sure you use a bit of fresh oil on your finger to lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter. Also make sure that the old filter still has it's gasket on. If it's not, it's stuck to the oil filter mount on the engine and your new filter will leak. 5. Reinstall the drain pain plug (don't forget the gasket - I didn't replace mine, but I should have) 6. Refill with 5 quarts of your choice of oil. The oil fill hole is hard to reach with the inverter assembly in the way (the thing that has the fancy "Hybrid Synergy Drive" cover on it). Use a longish funnel and please note the following TSBs -cylinder head oil baffle caution when adding oil - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 5w20 approved for 2006 (and onwards I would assume) engines (MZ included - this is the RX series engine - EG006_06.pdf I currently have 5w30 synthetic in the engine but plan to switch to 5w20 synthetic in the summer and 0w20 synthetic in the winter. My current oil of preference is Pennzoil Platinum. Miscellaneous - in case anyone was wondering this thing is the temperature sensor (to tell you the outside temp)

I don't know if you have the heated windshield (where the wipers normally park) like we do up here in Canada, but if you do, make sure the repair shop orders the proper windshield. I haven't had my 400h during a winter yet, but my previous vehicle (2001 Subaru Outback H6) had the heated wiper area and it melted snow like ice cream in July. Hopefully, the heated area on my Lexus will be just as hot. Sorry about your ride, too. I know how I'd feel if it happened to me so I can understand your pain and frustration. Someone's Karma is in for a serious hit.

The manual actually says if you're leaving it for 2 weeks or more, have someone start it and leave it in 'READY' mode for about 30 mins. You should be OK for nine days. Just make sure the battery is charged up before you park it.

Lexus has a TSB regarding the ISC learning procedure. Supposedly the idle speed will be off if this is not done after the battery goes dead or is disconnected. Apparently, mileage may suffer if this is not done. ___________________________________ Here's the TSB - EG010_05.pdf The TSB says you need to hook the vehicle up to the Lexus diagnostic tester (which the dealer has and you don't) but I found a post here http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f31/400...ification-8126/ that shows it can be done without the tester. The tester is needed to make sure the vehicle is 181 degrees or higher, which you can do by driving it for a decent amount of time with the engine (so no stealth driving to your destination in electric only mode - drive it like you stole it so it heats up). ___________________________________ The instructions are as follows - This applies to the 2006 Highlander Hybrid also. Note that you can probably perform the procedure yourself. The scan tool mentioned in the procedure checks the coolant temperature to make sure it is at full operating temperature and checks the engine loading to make sure the load is sufficient to charge the battery and finally checks the status of the ISC learning parameter. It is not necessary to monitor these parameters if you do the procedure carefully. 1) Make sure the vehicle is fully warmed up. Do the procedure immediately following a long drive that runs the engine (highway speeds are best - not long gliding stealth runs at low speeds with the engine off). This will insure the coolant temp is at FULL operating temperature - it is not necessary to actually measure the coolant temperature if you warm up the engine sufficiently and don't let the engine shut down too long and cool off before doing the procedure. 2) With the vehicle stopped and in drive, press firmly on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving and then step on the accelerator while watching the power meter (to the left of the speedometer). Press down on the accelerator to keep the needle between 1/2 and 3/4 up the scale. You will find that the engine management system will automatically limit the engine load no matter how far you press down on the pedal so the amount you press is not critical as long as it is either 1/2 scale or to the engine's self-limiting load value. Keep the engine loaded for a full 30 seconds but not longer than 40 seconds (this procedure brings the hybrid battery up to a maximum state of charge - if you watch the battery symbol, you willl see it tick up to a "full" display). 3) Shut off the engine and place it in park 4) Wait 5 seconds. 5) Turn the ignition key back on to display "ready" 6) make sure the A/C and heater system controls are set to off 6) Lightly step on the accelerator pedal until the engine starts -then immediately take your foot off the accelerator and let the engine run until it stops by itself. This completes the procedure. _______________________________________ I've done this procedure successfully a few times now (ran my battery dead once, and disconnected another time when trying to reset the NAV system) The only thing I noticed (and it didn't seem to matter) was that I could not get the power meter anywhere near 1/2 to 3/4. No matter how far I depressed the accelerator, the engine management system would not let the power climb even 1/4 way. Everthing else worked as stated though.

So you can educate your dealership when they tell you they can't duplicate your problem. I'm slowly downloading more of these as I get them, so keep checking back. 1. Air conditioning poor peformance - AC002_05.pdf 2. Air conditioning sensors inspection - AC005_04.pdf 3. Headlamp condensation - BO003_07.pdf 4. Front brake squeal - BR001_05.pdf 5. Brake acutator abnormal noise - BR003_07.pdf 6. Malfunction indicator lights after brake pad change - BR006_06.pdf 7. Retrieving diagnostic codes (unfortunately this is with the Lexus diagnostic equipment) - EG009_05.pdf 8. ISC learning procedure (this is a good one to be used after drained or disconnected battery) - EG010_05.pdf -this TSB mentions using the Lexus diagnostic equipment but look for my other post for directions for the ordinary mortal who doesn't have the Lexus scanner 9. Rocking feeling at 70mph - EG013_07.pdf 10. Power back door noise - EL013_07.pdf 11. Zero point calibration after wheel alignment - L_SB_0015_08.pdf 12. Tonneau cover latch rattle - NV001_07.pdf 13. Vehicle pull/drift to right improvement - ST003_05.pdf 14. Cylinder head cover oil baffle caution - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 15. Upper/Lower windshield tick noise - NV005_06.pdf 16. Instrument panel rattle - NV002_06.pdf 17. 5W20 oil recommendation - EG006_06.pdf 18. Front seat squeak noise - NV001_06.pdf 19. TPMS diagnostics etc. - PG001_07.pdf __________________________________________________________ The following are not TSBs, but good information to have. FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPLODED VIEW (from and RX330, but I believe RX400 is the same) front_brake_component.pdf rear_brake_component.pdf STEREO REMOVAL rx_stero_remove.pdf DEALER SELECTABLE OPTIONS (wish I knew why Lexus made it so only the dealer can adjust these) rx400h_customized_settings.pdf VOICE TEL and NAV COMMANDS (if you can get the stupid system to understand you) 2007_RX400h_Voice_Commands.pdf LexusVoiceNavwTel.pdf

No problem. Yes, it's not as simple as bleeding the brakes on a non hybrid vehicle which uses a brake booster powered by engine vacuum. Since the engine isn't always on the brake boosting is electric in the RX. Changing pads shouldn't be a problem (though there is a TSB about check lights activating after pad change) but bleeding I think is something the dealer may have to do.

Here ya go. Print it out and take it to the dealer. BR003_07.pdf

The brake work was easy, and very similar to other vehicles I've worked on. I didn't measure rotor or pad thickness (lots of pad left, though) - all I did was clean things up and lubricate the caliper pins and contact points. The regenerative components have nothing to do with the regular brakes - it's all done via the electric motors. I wondered the same thing (if the regenerative braking was somehow part of the standard brakes) till I pulled off the wheels and poked around under the vehicle.

The directions in the manual work, but you have to be really really really precise about the 5 second count. Here's what I did (I take no credit for this though, I found the tip about the : somewhere on the web via google). Just follow the directions from the manual but use the method below to time the 5 seconds. _____________________________________________________ I had been trying to do this on my 2006 RX400h with no success. I was getting quite frustrated till I found a post somewhere where someone advised that they counted the flashes of the : on the clock display. I tried it and it worked!!! What I did was push the lock button to lock when the : was not displayed on the dash clock, held it, and counted 5 flashes of the : on the dash clock. After the fifth flash, I released the button, and the door locks cycled indicating the programming was successful. Of course, depending on what you're trying to program, you may need to be in neutral and you may need to hold the button to unlock. The manual explains it all. In my case, I was trying to activate the autolock when moved out of Park. By the way, to cancel whatever you've programmed, you just go through the procedure again.

Also if you disconnect the battery (or run it down like I did), the sunroof will have to be normalized. You can tell if it needs to be normalized if the sunroof doesn't close properly when you use the tilt switch. If you have to kind of guess where closed should be you need to normalize it. To normalize, push and hold the 'slide' switch toward the front. The sunroof will tilt (even though you are using the 'slide' switch) up and down then slide open and close. After it closes, release the switch. The sunroof will now work normally (i.e. it will know where it's supposed to close when you use the switches).

Maybe this post should have gone under the general maintenance, but I think there are some things specific to the hybrid (location of the air intake etc.) 1. Loosen the clamps holding the large intake tubing to the airbox. I took the pics out of order and the MAF wiring is already removed. This is actually step #3 below. 2. Remove the bolts holding the airbox to the engine (three 10mm bolts) (also remove the right side engine covers - you have to push down the little button on the round clips then remove the clips - to reset the clips pull the 'arms' apart and push them through so the button is sticking up - when reinstalling the covers, put the clips through the holes and push the button down - sorry no pics on this, but it's in the owner's manual I think) 3. Remove the electrical connector on top of the airbox that leads to MAF. The connector is encased in rubber and says 'push' on it. Just push down and wiggle it as you pull back. The cable itself is connected to the airbox. Remove the clips using a very small bladed screwdriver (there are two prongs inside the clips you need to push. Hopefully you can see them in picture #5. 4. Remove the airbox. This is a bit tricky. You have to pull it forward first as there is a metal post at the rear inserted into a rubber grommet. Then remove the rubber hoses (you loosened the hose clamps in step #1). Then tilt the right side up and remove upwards and rightwards. You have to move it to the right because the left side of the airbox (were you removed two bolts in step #2) gets caught on the brake fluid container. Sorry not many pics on the actual procedure. The first two pics are the rubber grommet that the post at the back of the airbox inserts to. 5. Remove the steel support that the airbox had been bolted too (where you removed two bolts on the left side of the airbox). You may be able to skip this step, but I found the support to be in my way. You'll see the PCV valve behind the intake screwed to the rear of the valve cover. Use some needle nose pliers to push back the clamp and then pull the hose to the rear and off the valve. It's tight in there. If you have huge manhands, you may want to enlist someone with smaller hands. One the hose is off, I used an adjustable crescent wrench to loosen the valve. Last few shots are old valve beside new valve. The old valve still worked (I could hear the valve rattling when I shook it, but had obvious carbon and blowby buildup). Nice of Toyota to already have the valve threads wrapped in teflon tape. 6. Install new valve. I screwed it in by hand quite a ways, then used the crescent wrench to tighten it. Push the hose back on, use needle nose pliers to put clamp back on. Reinstall the metal air box support. Reinstall airbox (remember about the metal post and rubber grommet). Reattach wiring for MAF, push MAF connector on till you feel it 'click'. Bolt airbox back with the three bolts removed in step #2. Attach rubber intake tubing and tighten clamps (from step #1). Reinstall engine covers. TADA!! The PCV valve was $13 CDN (so probably $6-7 US). Took me about an hour, but it was my first time and I was taking pics. Wonder what the dealership charges? New PCV valve is good for 5 horsepower and 2 MPG (just kidding). I also changed the rear diff fluid but it was messy and I didn't want to get ATF all over my camera. It was even easier, but you do need some sort of fluid transfer pump to add the new fluid as there's no space for a funnel or room to pour from the ATF bottle. Next on my list is to change the CVT fluid. Already serviced the front and rear brakes (again, messy so no pics). The fronts were OK - the rears (and this is typical of all rear disc brakes) had seized caliper slider pins. Took them out, lubed them up and good to go. If you're not a DIYer, I highly recommend getting the brakes serviced, especially the rears. Due to the regenerative braking, the pads on the RX400h tend to last quite a while so the brakes may not have ever been touched. A regular vehicle probably would have had the pads replaced at least once at the number of KMs that I have (115000) and the caliper pins would have been checked and lubed then.

The first one is specs on a 2006 RX400h. The second file is an RX hybrid driving performance brochure and it's chock full of interesting information. These may already be posted, but I couldn't find them using the search feature. rx400_brochure.pdf rxh_driving_performance_guide.pdf