Cynical

Its not hard but it is time consuming because the throttle body has to be removed and the the Y pipe as well...............I had to remove the EGR pipe, some have done it without removing the EGR but I dont know how. If you look on clubna-t.com there is a down loadable manual on there I posted up. I'm pretty sure it is against the rules to post it here or else I would, mods if it is ok for me to post manual here let me know. There is a good amount to changing these so typing out directions would take forever.

I would check you Torque Converter

94-97, you could have answered this for yourself if you used the search feature

Both of those are questions only you can answer. Which one looks better is like asking us what you should eat for supper, looks are in the eye of the beholder. Which is more luxury, yet again that is a question only you can answer. What myself or the person next to me considers luxury is going to be different than what you consider luxury. Your best bet is drive them both, weigh the pros and cons of each with your needs and go from there, both are nice cars and both are expensive to keep up. I cant help you on which one looks better because that is strictly opinion and I wouldnt want to try and convince someone to see things my way. If I had to choose I would go with the Lex just because I have had both cars and the lex was more reliable.

First thing that comes to mind is your battery, make sure it is fully charged. Make sure the terminals are nice and tight, I had a similar issue a few weeks ago and it turned out that my battery terminals were bad.

You can tell if it has the nakamichi system by looking at your radio. If it does not say Nakamichi on the left hand corner its to Pioneer system. The crossover is inside the speaker enclosure

Are you sure it wasn't a "click" instead of the thump? When I had that problem on my old LS4 it used to click. Nah it was a thud it almost sounded like I was hitting a deep hole

It very well could be your end links, when mine were bad I would get a thump only when going in reverse at slow speeds and the links looked fine but when I changed them the thumping stopped.

I dont want to burst anyone's bubble, but KYB IS NOT the only OEM struts that came on the SC's. I just changed the struts on my 97 SC300 and the OEM struts were made by Tokico part number 48530-24220 with Toyota above it and are all black, so I think what OEM struts you get depends on the year of the car. Also when I went to Toyoto and Lexus their "OEM" struts are made by Tokico as well. Dont forget Toyoto does not make their own small parts such as Struts, and other accessories so when you purchase the OEM struts from the dealer they are going to be manufactured by someone else. Some people have this crazy idea that Toyota and other car companies make their own parts, but in reality most dont and when you purchase "OEM" you are getting a different manufacture such as Denso, KYB, Tokico etc..... Hence the Ignition Coil I just purchased from Toyota, it is made by Denso, and it was $75, yet cross referencing the exact part number lead me to a local store that had it for $49 and the only difference is it did not say Toyota on it but the Denso part number is the exact same. I replaced the destroyed 180k mile struts with Tokico Blues. I must say the ride is much smoother and less harsh, but also rather bouncy. Over the smaller bumps the struts absorb the impact very well and the car feels very stable. Now the bigger bumps are a bit of a different story, with the larger bump/holes the rear of the car gets pretty bouncy and at decent speed feels somewhat unstable, but not unsafe yet stays comfy. I was hoping the ride would be a little bit stiffer and less bouncy keeping the stock springs, but overall I like the Tokico's so far and for those of you who drive in Mass you know how crappy the roads are year round lol.

You can fit 5.25 with some modification, but if you want 6.5 you will need make your own baffles or head over to Ebay and they have some 6.5 surrounds like fit perfectly.

So for sometime now I have been smelling what smells like unburnt fuel when I start the car up and cold days I can see a good amount of exhaust from the tail pipes. After reading a few prior posts I decided to test my Ignition Coil and I think my coil is either dying or I tested it wrong. I followed the manual for testing the coil and the resistance was in range for the secondary coil resistance but not for the primary coil resistance. Primary Coil Resistance: 000.6 Ohm (Cold 0.21-0.33 Hot 0.27-0.39) Secondary Coil Resistance: 9.32 Kohm (Cold 0.64-11.1 Hot 8.2-13.0) The thing is my car is not miss firing or idling odd but from a dead stop the car seems powerless and at higher rpms it is slow to climb. Sluggish (from a dead stop the RPM's need to hit around 2k for the speed register on the tach) Somewhat Low Idle (around 400 or so) When car reaches 4k rpm it does not move like I think it should. TERRIBLE gas mileage about 15 miles to the gallon Holding the key down abit longer to start the car after sitting for over 12 hours. Last August I changed the Plugs/Wires/Distributor Cap and Rotor. Other than that the car is pretty good lol. I highly doubt that the coil is causing ALL the issues..............but then again it could be playing into them, think?

92-2000 SC can have the LCA bushings replaced and you can do the same to UCA's. If you want to spend around $350 for rubber bushing VFTBUSHES.com sells them, but as I said they are crazy expensive. If you want to get polyurethane Bushings go to http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/daizen/make/sc.html. If your Ball Joint are bad you HAVE to replace the entire LCA no matter what year SC you have, not a single one has replaceable ball joints. Honestly I would just get the entire Supra LCA's for about $500 for the set and have piece of mind that the Ball Joints are new as are the bushings, the last thing you want is a few thousand dollars in repairs because your ball joints were really dry and snap while driving on the highway.

Well lexus is Toyota so if he has an issue using TOYOTA supra parts then there is something wrong with your mechanic

I already have Tokico struts, but I'm just not sure whether or not I should spend the $100 to get new rear mounts when I'm not sure if I actually need them.

Im looking to purchase a somewhat low mileage crank pulley for a 97 SC300 Auto, if someone has one they are looking to sell at a decent price please let me know.

I had an interesting situation today with my SC. After installing my new speakers I went for a drive and all is well, I came and left again a few times everything was normal. Just about an hour ago I went out put my key in the ignition turn it and the EVERYTHING in the car turn on then within a half a second went dead. It seemed to die when I tried to start it, but EVERYTHING shorted out nothing worked not a single light, sound.....nothing, the engine didnt even have a chance to try and turn over. I took the key out and tried a few more times, but the entire car remained completely dead. I popped the hood checked the fuses, and not a single one was bad. For ****s and giggles I tried it again and the damn thing worked perfectly fine, BUT my steering wheel, Radio and clock were all reset.........its as if the battery was disconnected. I was under the hood for all of 5 minutes or so and didnt touch the battery at all. It is to dark for me to trouble shoot tonight, where should I start? Oh the battery and starter is less than a year old, I'm thinking possibly the alternator but for some reason that does not sound right to me. I really hope to god its not the starter, I will be *BLEEP*ed if it is seeing how it is the ONLY part I had Toyota repair for me. My thoughts are either Ignition Switch or alternator, what are your thoughts? __________________

When you say noise could be more specific? I have pushed down HARD on the rear of the car and the only sound I get is the sound of a dead strut......It is a light grinding noise. When I put the car in reverse and start rolling I can sometimes hear a small pop/grinding coming from the rear, but I'm not sure if thats the Controls Arms or something else..............Could that be the mounts? The thing I dont understand is how a sold metal mount and be bad if its not cracked. There are no bearings or rubber parts on the mounts that I can see. On the front the only rubber was for the spring insulator, but other than that the entire mount was sold metal.

So I finally got around to changing the struts on my SC............needless to say after 180k the OEM struts were toast as were the Bump stops. The left front stop was in pieces LITERALLY and the right one was in half, but to my surprise the mounts were fine. I thought the SC had bearing in the mounts, but they dont, all they have is a rubber grommet that helps hold the spring insulator in place. I had already purchased new front mounts from rockauto so I put those on but I really didnt need to waste the $40 for them. Now I still need to replace my rears and I'm wondering if I should buy new mounts seeing how the fronts were perfectly fine? For those of you who replaced the struts on the SC did you reuse the mounts and just change out the stops and boots? Normally I would just purchase new mounts but I would rather put the $100+ for the mounts toward either LCA's, Tire Rods, PS Pump, Gasket Kit and the list goes on lol. The other issue is not a single place around here stocks them and every shop has to order em and it is going to take atleast a week to arrive..................I'm not patience once I start something lol.