Sexus ES300
-
Posts
70 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Articles
Videos
News & Articles
Posts posted by Sexus ES300
-
-
I had all 4 struts on my '94 ES 300 [170K miles] replaced today. Cost me around $800 including labor. Wonder how this figures with you guys?
I'm not at all happy with the new gas KYB's. [Part # 334131 /32 front and 334176 / 77 back, I think] The ride seemed a bit too jumpy and the shocks are a bit hard. I miss that sweet smooth ride of my Lexus on the really beaten old struts. The old ones did a "thunk" on sharp bumps but mannnn...that was a cushy soft ride otherwise. The new ones seem to react to every little bump and has me jumpy inside.
Is there something I can have my mechanic do to get that old cushy soft ride of my Lexus again?
I did the same thing with my 99 es300 and regret it. KYB are to harsh for this car.
I used monroe and the ride is exactly the same.
-
If I am looking at the correct part (part number 74230-33010) in a diagram on http://www.toyodiy.com (see attached), you can get a new one from Sewell Lexus in Texas ( http://lexus.sewellparts.com/ ) for $145.75 after registering with them using your Lexus Owners Club member name or a member name from another Lexus forum.
Other parts websites may give you a slightly lower price but Sewell gets my vote with their usually lower shipping costs and rock solid reliability. I am particularly uncomfortable with Parts.com's "we're not responsible for our vendors" disclaimer.
145 is a little too much to spend on a 98, but thanks thats exactly what I was looking for just wish it was a little cheaper.
-
I've fixed quite a few of these over the years on a lot of different cars. Its pretty common.
The cheapest fix is to repair the existing wood grain applique. Go to an auto paint shop and get some double-sided sticky tape that they use for fastening emblems and body mouldings onto the side of fenders, etc. The good stuff that they use will almost never come off if the proper surface prep is done before.
Sometimes after you dismantle the switch from the applique (or whatever you want to call it)you can epoxy glue the broken pieces back on to it. If possible, just be sure to scuff up the plastic bits where the glue goes (to give it a good grip)and use lots of 5 minute epoxy around the fitting to beef up its structure. Let it set overnight before reinstalling. Obviously you have to remove the door panel from the door to do this.
If the clip structures are too far gone, it may be possible to epoxy glue the applique right to the door panel. (If the panel ever needs to come off for internal door repairs in the future, you'd have to pull the door panel from the door and slide it up far enough, to allow getting in behind it to disconnect the window and lock switch wiring connectors.)
If you are not turned off by this suggestion, I've even seen where people have drilled a small hole through the applique and into the door panel front and rear of the applique, and fastened it down with either black or chromed automotive trim screws. Recently, I saw where one guy used some brown paint to disguise the screws further.
Or you could buy a new one from the dealer or try to locate one from an auto wrecker. Good Luck!
Thanks man, I figured id have to end up doing that anyways unless i could find one online.
Thanks again for the tips!
-
-
Any idea where i could find the front passenger side trim bezel for a 98 3s 300? I broke the retaining clip when cleaning the window switch and recently broke the plastic tabs where the switch and lock are at so the whole thing falls off the bezel into the door.
Heres a pic of what part i need:
Ive already googled and looked on ebay but obviously havent had any luck, just need a little help getting pointed in the right direction.
Thanks!
-
cool yea i'd love to do it myself saves me 200 bucks (for both rear and front). it doesn't seem fairly hard just time consumption I suppose. I was told that i'd have tow orry about balancing it so it'd be better if i just took it to a mechanic. but that didn't make much sense to me. so yea i'll buy those two front ones, I gotta find rear ones can't seem to find quick strut monroes for the rear, and thanks for the help. if you could give me any tips on doing it myself or maybe some pics it would all be great. :)
Not balancing just realignment. I let off the steering wheel and slammed on the breaks to see if it pulled left/right, it didnt, and after a month i havent had any unusual tire wear so i never had to get it realigned.
If you end up having to its pretty cheap but id go ahead and rotate the tires too.
Unfortunately i didnt take any pics but heres the link for my write up: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63153&st=0&p=404228entry404228
-
that's cool i prefer a smoother ride. and quieter if possible. I clicked the link the one you showed me didn't seem to be for my model but i found two for my model but it's weird. one says front driver side other says front passenger? i thought there was no placement issue. like one for front would work on either or, or one for rear will work on either side. could it be because of the abs? and yea i'm guessing that's the full assembly all ready good to go.
yeah that link was for my car my bad
There's definitely a difference from left and right but its only really for the brake line clamps
and yes its the full assembly so no need to compress the old springs...etc
the top 3 bolts are very easy to take off but the 2 big bolts on the bottom are a !Removed!, I had to use a breaker bar to get them off.
I ran into issues when putting the new assembly in, the bottom 2 bolts weren't aligning up correctly but after i figured out the first one it took me less than 10 min to change out the other side.
If u need any help just let me know. This is a pretty easy DIY
-
Btw Monroe should be good enough for that car.
KYB is a nicer brand and they are stiffer imo but i liked the really smooth ride before so I went with the Monroes.
-
If your replacing the springs too just get Monroe quick struts
http://www.summitrac...ts/MON-171678ST
If not search for my thread on strut replacement, its for a 98 so the part #s will be different but at least you know what parts to get.
-
After giving up on trying to find replacement lights and blue light "condoms" i went ahead and ordered some L.E.D.s.
I ordered them from here: http://www.superbrig...instrument.html
Of course with my luck i ordered the wrong size even though the back looks identical to the original bulbs so i removed the leds from their sockets and put them in the new sockets
the picture is a little misleading but the climate control screen looks exactly like every blue light around it.
this is how it turned out:
-
you might want to start a new thread for that problem. but is it only 45mph and above?
Try using injector cleaner or cleaning out the MAF
-
I had the post where some had the part numbers for the climate control lights but i cant find it now.
Any one have any idea on what the number is or the size?
Im going to make all the lights blue eventually cause im not a big fan of the green so the size info would be great.
Heres what im considering putting in: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Finstrument.html
-
btw do u have pics for the pc in your car, ive been considering building one and hooking it up to my head unit(double din 6.5in)
-
i would say it is just becaue of the cold. now that it is warming up i think u will see it go back.
two reasons why it gets bad in the winter
Weaker gasoline
Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a gal of winter gas as you will on a gal of summer gas.
Temp
Have a gander at these calculations for a Honda Civic hybrid at 60 MPH in varying ambient temperatures:
MPH-----AMBIENT-TEMP-----MPG (US)
60------------95----------52.98
60------------85----------52.62
60------------75----------51.16
60------------65----------49.12
60------------55----------47.22
60------------45----------44.67
60------------35----------43.05
60------------25----------41.54
60------------15----------39.41
60------------05----------38.09
Look at the extremes: the coldest MPG is 28% lower than the warmest.
ah i see. I would think since the air is colder it is denser, kinda like a cold air intake improving mpg or a turbo with an inter-cooler. never thought about the gas additives.
thanks for the input, ever tried a K&N filter?
-
Around 6 months ago i was getting a steady 19 mpg but now im stuck at 17.
I already changed the pcv valve about a month ago.
Any thing else i should change? Im about to change the air filter(considering a K&N)
-
Since no one replied I went ahead and ordered this one and put it in today.
http://www.warehouse...rsReviewsWidget
SO much better than the stock one for only $50
It took about 2 min to wire it up and put it in. I still have to bolt it down so its just sitting in there.
Unfortunately I ordered a dual 2ohm sub which is only abled to be wired to 1ohm or 4ohms so its running 4ohms instead of 2ohms but still sounds great...
If i did it again id buy the dual 4ohm version for a little more so that you could run it at 2ohms. Look up ohms law or sub ohms on google.
Heres some pics:
-
similar problem with my passenger seat, the actual seat part not the back is tilted backwards and wont come back up. So your kinda wedged in the seat all the other functions work fine though.
If you find a fix let me know
-
THANKS SOO MUCH FOR THE INFO... I WISH I KNEW THE SERICE HISTORY!!! I DONT THINK THAT ANYTHING WA SDONE TO THE CAR BEFORE I PURCHASED IT!!! THE DEALER SQID HE WILL FIX EVERYTHING... I HOPE SOO CUZ MY SIGNIFICANT OTHER IS TOTALLY *BLEEP*ED AND THE DEALER KNOWS IT. I WILL KEEP UP POSTED . SORRY ABOUT BEING IN THE WRONG FORUM !! I THINK I WAS SO EXCITED ABOUT FINDIN THE WEBSITE I JUST BEGAN TO TYPE
WILL KEEP U POSTED!!! THANSK AGAIN.
Easy on the caps lol. btw since you dont have any records id definitely look into the timing belt/water pump even though if the belt breaks or the pump dies you wont damage anything
-
that doesnt seem like its related to the timing belt or water pump,
more like rotors/brakes, wheel bearings, bad alignment...etc
but yeah id still take it back and have whoever changed the belt and pump
-
regarding the windows: pick up a can of electrical contact cleaner and remove the switches (takes like 2min) dissemble the switch as much as possible, spray the hell out of it(Try to spray inside the switch to get to the contacts) wait like 5 min then repeat at least 3 more times. same prob with my switches but fixed them with a 5$ can of cleaner.
If you do get the can of cleaner go ahead and spray out the MAF sensor (you dont need a new one)
for the o2 sensor the front one is easy but the one close to the firewall is kinda hard to get to but its still a very easy diy
as stated above try getting a can of injector cleaner
everything else intake gs said is recommended
btw DO NOT flush the transmission a simple drain and fill should suffice maybe the filter if it hasnt been changed
-
I just pulled the old speaker out of the car and the only info is that it is 2ohms.
Anyone know the specs for the stock sub? Its a pioneer btw
-
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8311_Kicker+C84+-07C84-.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21933_Kicker+C84+-10C84-.html
the top one is out of stock but I can back order but which one is better?
-
Heres my head units output:
# Power Output:
* Peak: 60 watts x 4 channels
* RMS: 17 watts x 4 channels
-
The sub in my es 300 was shorting out but i ripped the cone when trying to resolder the wires back.
The stock sub sounds like crap anyways so I figured id get a cheap aftermarket free air/IB sub and put it in.
Any Ideas?
btw im thinking of powering it off my head units amp since everything else is using the pre-amp outs(rca) and they plug into the factory amp.
Considering Buying An 01 Is 300 W/ 195K
in 01 - 06 Lexus IS300
Posted
1. Anything in particular I should inspect?
2. If no major issues, what would you offer?
3. Does anyone know what these headlights are? would like to install these once I get the car.