calean007

Well, it's going to cost 577.00 for everything. The part everywhere was over 300.00. dammit...

I had to have it towed last night which was a *BLEEP*er, but it didn't cost me anything thankfully. When I got there the car was running but as soon as I removed the battery jumpers, car died. Definitely the alternator. Problem is that I don't have the proper tools or really and most importantly the time. I dropped it off at our garage we use and looks like the serpatine belt needs replacing too as it's starting to crack. That's about $50 I'm told. I have no idea with labor what this piece of crap is going to cost. It's at a local garage independently.

Tonight my wife's car died after a new battery was put in yesterday. She was driving along and then it died. alternator? If so, it it hard to replace on a 1992 LS 400?

I don't have a manual for my 1992 LS400, but I was wondering a couple of things. first, how much are new power steering hoses? second, are they easy to install, or are they pressurized and you need to take it in somewhere?

Thanks for the linkage....I think I'm going to have to request a quote on some things.

I've been trying to find a site that has a rear wheel sensor for the ABS, because my light is on due to the absence of this part. I don't want to goto the dealership and give those sharks money, but I'm not having luck finding a site out there that actually stocks this sensor. Can someone point me in the right direction as to where to find it? Also, will installing this sensor alone make the Anti-lock light on the cluster go off?

Just an update on this situation: I replaced the fuel filter and that didn't solve the problem. However, this time I noticed something that I missed before. When the car was slowing down spontaneously I noticed that the RPM's were going up while the speed going down. Therefore I thought perhaps a transmission issue of not switching to the next gear. I was wrong. On Sunday, I'm following my wife while she is driving the LS400 and then I see the hazards go on and I'm thinking, "Here we go again!" Well, I have her get out and as I walk up I smell this burning smell, but not like oil. Well not even 10 seconds behind the wheel I had to push in pretty far on the gas to get it to go forward and then when I released it it lunged back and I went forward like I had slammed on the breaks. There was my problem. The brakes were intermittently not released pressure on the brake calipers. It's just in the previous times it was so subtle that you couldn't notice it, but now I know what brakes heating up smells like. :whistles: Well, I took it to a garage, because I didn't know how to troubleshoot this thing. They determined it was the master cylinder(Original part from the factory). They discovered this after checking the calipers on all four wheels and that checked out. The way he figured it out was that he put the car in neutral and then tried to push it and it wouldn't move. Well, he disconnected the lines from the master cylinder to release pressure and then connected them, the brakes released and he was able to push the car. They ordered the part from Toyota, it's running around $400 for the part and with all the labor they've done and with a student discount, it's going to run around $590.00. It was over $600.00. Anyway, no damage to the brakes, calipers, or rotors.....

I am going to drop the pan on this thing this coming weekend. I noticed that the dipstick tube is actually welded onto the transmission pan itself, so from what I can tell you have to fanagle that shaft out of there when dropping the transmission pan? Also, I was wondering what some of you use to clean out the grime and old fluid from the pan itself. In other words, what is a good dissolving agent for that? Thanks for the suggestions!

I've been scouring the net like mad trying to find this. anyone that can shoot me some help is appreciated. :D

Well, not only did I have it in my armpit, but see I was working on the hard concrete ground so my right arm got chewed up by the concrete while trying to loosen the lines. On top of breaking the skin, the gas actually went into the wound for that "extra stinging sensation." Now that's a bonus.... :chairshot:

On the driver side, the door lock switch pastic broke some time ago. I've had a hard time on Ebay, Junk Yards, etc, trying to find a replacement switch. From what I can tell that top part separates from the electronic motor portion. anyone have a good place I could check out that has this part. Thanks!

Well, I did it. I changed out the fuel filter and yes, as expected, messy as hell. First, I hate Toyota for making a car so dang hard to work on. The filter was in front of the rear left side wheelwell but easy to get to. I didn't have to lift it or anything. However, once I got under there I realized that the filter retainer, the bolt to loosen it, was up under it in some wicked way that you couldn't get to. so as luck would have it, I had to take the whole thing off the chassis. Well I checked the old filter and gas flowed through it very good, but the gas itself was pretty cloudy and not clear like the new one did. After gett the new filter in the bracket, back onto the chassis, I connected the fuel lines and fired her up. Shot fuel out all over the driveway! Well, I looked back down there and apparently the in side part of the filter that thing actually cranked down quite a bit more, even though previously it felt like it was as far as it could go. Well, fired up the car again, now it's not leaking out of the in port, but the out port is dripping steady stream. Crap! Well I worked and worked on that thing and I could get it to where it just barely seeped out, but not stopped. Frustrated I almost punted the old filter across the street. Then I got to looking at it and I thought maybe it's not fully forward in the retainer? Well, I unbolted and disconnected everything, got more gas on the drive way and me too. Took the filter and pushed it as far forward as possible, slapped everything back together, but now another problem. The out port valve wouldn't connect, or the threads wouldn't take hold. I repositioned and voila! It connected. I fired it up, no leaks. Kind of a long explanation, but this was my first fuel filter replacement ever on any car. I'm just a beginner Do-It-Yourself guy. Way I see it, the part was 18.99 and yes I spent a lot of time working on it, about 3 hours, but hey, working on cars is fun right? Plus, I saved myself on labor and anytime I can do that, it's worth it. So far I can't tell if this was in fact the solution to my problem, but in about a week, I should know. It had been doing time regularly for 2 weeks, but yesterday when I floored it, it took off. Again, apologies for the long post....

My thoughts too! I'd start with the fuel filter, and a fuel injector cleaning(motorvac) can only do good things too-no more than $150...no diy because it is done with a machine. I'd bet that the fuel filter is the culprit. If the car has been fine on regular for 2 years, I'd say that the '87 gas is ok(it'd cause valve pinging rather than no response). O.k. Thanks for telling me about the fuel injectors. I had no idea they had to be done on a machine. I assume the car is EFI then is the reason? On my Honda Accord, I just have a fuel rail that you pop out the old, put in the new, and your on your way. I found a fuel filter at O'reilly Auto Parts for around $16.00. AutoZone didn't have one at all, but they did have the directions for where it's located for removal. Sounds easy enough, but I wanted to make sure: On your 1992 LEXUS LS400, the FUEL FILTER is: UNDER VEHICLE, DRIVER SIDE, BELOW SEATING AREA, FRONT OF REAR WHEELWELL, MOUNTED ON CHASSIS IN FUEL LINE Is that right? Also, I'm having a hell of a time finding a Chilton's Manual for this pig. Parts stores don't even carry them. any ideas there? Sorry for the hundred questions.

Good to be back at these forums. I lost the damn bookmark so I apologize. I have a 1992 LS 400 and recently something strange is happening. SOmetimes when we step on the gas, and I mean hard or sometimes just firmly push in, that car doesn't kick in and pickup speed. In some cases, for a time it won't go faster than 30 MPH. I'm thinking something to do with the fuel delivery system. I don't think it's the spark plugs, because last year we had a new set of wires and plugs with distributor put on. Could it be the fuel filter, or maybe the gas itself? I know the gas cap says premium only, but for the last two years we've just put in 87 octane, due to high gas prices. I just don't think it's the gas, but how the gas is getting there. Maybe the injectors? help is appreciated.....

I've called O'reilly and Autozone and they don't have them....I'm running out of options....

Well, it's not that it need welding. It's actually missing the rubber ring. I looked at the other which is fine and determined this was the case. Perhaps I could buy it from a garage that does muffler work...

Well, after this part here, I doubt that I will ever be a Lexus owner again. Too darn expensive when compared to my genuine Honda parts. lol

Thanks man! Everyone is so darn friendly here. That is rare for a message board... B)

Actually I was going that as you wrote this. They said the part is $31.54 plus tax...for a rubber ring...ridiculous... Anyway, one of my twin exhausts is fine, so I guess I only need just one of those rings for the one that is dangling right?

Well, it's being help up by that right now and it's still hanging too low. I actually want to install the right part for it...

As far as a fuel additive, you don't need all those fancy advanced crap bottles. I goto Wal-Mart and get the house brand equivalent of regular STP and use it in both my Honda and Lexus. It works just as good. For the valve, just pull it out but be careful about and don't break it in half. It's just cheap plastic...

I have a 92 Lexus LS 400. One of the mufflers is hanging down and it looks like there are these rubber donut looking items that hold it up. I was wondering what the correct name of the part is so that I can order it from the dealer. any help would be appreciated.

Well I know they get wrecked, but I figured by the time I get to them they are stripped. Incidentally, how would I get that veneer off of that console in the salvage car?

Thanks...does this mean I'm accepted into this family? he he

Usually they are located on top of the engine valve cover(Block) and it has a single hose attached to it. To test if it works you can do one of two things. Detach it and shake it. If you hear a rattle, it's good. If not, well replace. they are about 2.00 and Fram makes them. You can also with the engine running take the valve out of the valve cover and put your finger underneath the PCV valve. If you feel a strong suction, it's good too. Otherwise replace. I don't know the exact location as I haven't looked under my LS 400, but I think it's going to be where I stated...