calean007

I noticed on the passenger rear side, the connector for the antilock sensor is missing, which would explain why on the instrument cluster it has this light showing. Can you get this aftermarket or is Lexus the only place you can get this item. BTW, I did a search on this and had no luck..

Well, I got it up in the air, and really, I had a hard time finding the leak, but all eyes kept going back to that banjo bolt where the line connects into the ps unit. Well, I had to take it back to the shop because yes, the alternator yesterday went to the crapper. Fortunately, they warrantied it out including labor and that cost me nothing. The source of the leak I found out today is easiest when you use some dye. Sure enough, I was right about that banjo bolt. Apparently the crush washers inside were kaput and they just replaced it and charged me only the labor. However, on the way home, I found out that my conversion to R134a, while successful, apparently I have a leak in the system due to it stopping to blow cold air. The blowers still work and everything, but I think it's a leak in the line itself, or possibly an O ring. Anyway, I would have fixed the PS issue, but since I had to get the alternator replaced, might as well let the mechanic get dirty... Thanks for all the help folks!

O.k. I did some cleaning up last night, albeit haphazardly. I saw some fluid around the bolt on the back of the resevoir. I looked on the hoses and only on the left side of the engine as you look at it on those lines to I see fluid and gunk buildup. However, I noticed that the fluid crap is on that bolt. I didn't get it up into the air, because that's this afternoon. I'm thinking about attacking the clogged solenoid filter issue first as a search on the topic seems to reveal that usually that's one of the main issues. My question is, if I just want to remove the solenoid, do I have to remove the alternator to get at it? Also, I've been thinking this could just be a case of a loose connector somewhere. So far, the lines seem to be good, rubber and steel rods...

That just takes me back here???? Is this a joke? jade - Not to sound dense, but where specifically should I be looking for the leak. Around the pump itself, or down where the lines connect to the wheels? Some more help for an idiot like me would be great...

I noticed that indeed my power steering lines are leaking and will need to be replaced. I don't have a repair manual for the car, because it's too dang expensive. So my question is, how hard is it to replace the power steering lines on a 92 LS 400? What's involved and are there any special tools I need? I believe the pump itself is fine, but just the lines leaking....

I've had some slow leaks on the power steering unit. Well, I guess I'm going to have to get the lines replaced...$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

your altenator bushings are going bad ← I don't know about that. I just had a shop replace the alternator about 6 months ago...

O.k. I'll try and get that done this weekend...I think it's this article you are referring to right? link

Just recently on my wife's 1992 LS 400, these lights come on for a second and then after a minute or so, go away. Got any clues?

Yeah, no kidding! Basically I felt like Peter Givens from Office SPace at the end of the movie when he says "*BLEEP*ing A!"

This past weekend I did two things I've never done on a car. First, I replaced the front brake rotors, and that was a tough job with those rotor screws. What idiot at Toyota decided to put them on there? Anyway, brakes may not sound like a big job, and it's not, but to a beginner DIY'er, it was involved enough. Second, I converted my wife's R-12 system to R-134. That was so easy I couldn't believe it. Took me all of about 20 minutes total to complete and the air is blowing out nice and cold, whereas before, it was just blowing out hot. What's cool about all of this is I got to break in some brand new tools. My 151 piece mechanics tool set from Craftsman and my new 2 1/2 ton floor jack also a Craftsman. Plus, getting your hands greasy from doing manual work, I felt like I was on cloud nine! I don't use those gloves however...Just wouldn't be as fun. Anyway, just thought I would share. Let the flaming begin!

What I did was just bang a flat head in there to get some teeth and got them out. Was able to put the back in too..

← Got mine at O'Reilly. 3 bucks...works fine...

I had some 17 inchers on my 92 LS 400, and frankly, I thought it made the ride rougher and the car looked ridiculous. I didn't put them on as they were already on the car when I bought it. I went back to factory stock size at 15 inches and some new rims from MB Motoring and it looks great...

To add onto this, I found some rotors for about $50 each at O'Reilly. Is that a good price?

I found this stuff called freeze 12 that is compatible with r12 and r132 systems.

Forgive me but I do not understand something. Can you buy the freon at an autoparts store, or do you have to get it elsewhere?

user posted image....

My wife's LS400 1992 is not blowing cold air. It's cool, but not like it was last year. I don't think it's a problem with the compressor, so I want to recharge the freon. So since I don't have one of those 100 dollar tech manuals, my questions are where under the hood is the stem to recharge it and is this something you can do on your own and what are the steps? There, that's enough...

Well, I took it in today, and it was only out about a quarter on balancing. no belt wear or anything like that. I will be bucking up the cash for new rotors. Thankfully, the brake pads are still very much good so rotors is all that needs to be done... I have have a mind to do it myself, but since these are anti-lock brakes, I don't know if there is more involved than just using a ratchet? Thanks for those of you all along saying it was rotors, and not flaming me for being in denial...

Here is something I failed to mention about this issue. Before getting the new rims and tires, this vibration on braking never was present. It was only after they put the new rims and tires on that this started happening. Now I've been told that it could be a problem with the tires steel belting or it could be a bent rim, even if it's ever so slight. I'm taking it back to discount tire company in the morning and I'm going to have them ride along so they can experience it themselves. I just have a hard time believing it's the rotors, because if it was, I think that problem would have been happening before the tire/rim change out. I'm not trying to be an !Removed! to those who've suggested otherwise, but I did leave out this detail. When this vibration started happening, it was within days, not even a week after I got the new stuff put on.

Shall I go ahead and assume that new rotors for a Lexus are not cheap....

Sorry mate, should have been more clear. I meant the original size, not the original rims themselves....sorry.. Well, if it's the rotors, am I looking at brand new rotors, or can they be machined out?

I have a 92 LS 400 and recently, we replaced the 17 inch rims and tires back to the factory 15 inch size. After about 3 days of driving it, it was shaking when either letting off the accelerator or hitting the brakes, especially when they are hit hard. Now I took it back to the tire shop and the balance was off and they fixed that. However, the problem has returned and is getting worse I believe. I don't think this is warped rotors or anything like that and when cruising, the ride is smooth. Could it be that I need an alignment? I had one done last year, but that was on bigger rims and tires? Does it make a difference?

I've determined that my power steering lines are leaking. I called a garage and they said with parts and labor around $400. Is this pretty fair?