prharper

I had a 99 LX470 which did not come with a tow package. I installed an aftermarket tow package; 2" hitch. Purchased a Yakima Full Swing4 in 2005 which fit perfect. I purchased on sale at REI in Fairfax. VA. Keep an eye out, they often run sales on Thule and Yakima gear. I now have a 07 LX470 with factory tow package and the Yakima rack fits perfectly as one would expect. I've had 4 bikes on the rack and they were very secure, solid. Nice thing about this model, is you can swing the rack out (with bikes on) to access/open the rear cargo door. Yakima has updated the rack and I believe it's now called Swing Daddy.

Are they need to replace the CV joints assy. or just renew the duct cover? How much for the dealer price? Mine went bad at 88k miles. Dealer replaced both front CV boots (left & right) $1,148. Ouch

Sorry for the delay. I blew the debris out with a can of compressed air. Don't bother with the clips. The lens is sealed and not worth the effort to remove.

I did not take apart the light assembly (held on with clips). I rigged a shop vac near the opening while filing with the Dremel bit to vacuum the debris to avoid dropping in the housing. I also used a can of compressed air after filing, with the opening facing the ground, and blew out the few pieces of metal that did fall into the housing. You might be able to spray some water in there and let dry completely. I didn't have much of a problem using the compressed air to blow it out. Hope this helps. Paul

Another picture with Low, High and Fog beams ON. Notice the difference in light color among the three. The Low Beams (6000k HID) and Fogs (4100k HID) do not appear as bright as the High beams due to the angle I used to take the picture. Oncoming traffic would see a similar effect. The Lows and Fogs are aimed to shoot down the road not in the eyes of oncoming traffic. Note: The High beams are PIAA X-treme White Plus 9005 - DOT approved. Nicer than the standard yellowish OEM bulbs. These also serve as the day time running lights. Trust me, the HID lights are superior to the halogens. I have better visibility at night and feel safer driving. I have not had anyone flash me while driving with both the Low and Fog HID's on. Thanks again for all the great advice found in this forum. I'll try to add another photo taken at night. Paul

This picture shows the Philips Stage II 6000k HID capsules (H1) and Philips 4100k HID capsules (H3) on the fog lights. Notice the difference in light color. I would not want to go with anything higher than 6000k as it could attract too much attention with DOT. 4100k also provides more light output as opposed to 6000k. I have not had a single vehicle flash me. Proper mounting, installation and quality of capsules have maintained a perfect beam cutoff pattern.

The following picture shows the addition of the Toyota OEM Fog light switch. I didn't want to mess with the lighting controls or relay on the turn signal lever mounted on the steering column. Another advantage is that I can now turn on the brights without the fog lights turning off.

Due to availability of kits and shipping errors, I ended up with two HID kits. I replaced the low beams with Philips Stage II 6000k bulbs and ballasts. These have a slight blue tint. The bulb type is H1. Installation required removing the light assembly and enlarging the bulb opening. This can be filed, as indicated by another member who also provided a picture. I used a Dremel tool with a stone bit to widen the opening. I also took the advice of another member to eliminate the UFO effects. I cut out 4 small metal oval tabs and glued these, using JB Weld, over the openings within the light housing (2 ovals in each light). The beam pattern is perfect. Added new wiring, straight to battery with relay and diode. Each ballast is fuse protected (15 AMP) along with the main power run (30 AMP) See URL below for info on making your own harness. The second HID upgrade consisted of replacing the H3 fog light bulbs with Philips 4100k HID lights. This was painless. No modification of the fog light assembly was required to fit the H3 capsules. 4100k is the OEM HID color for Lexus. I ran all new wiring for this option. Powered straight to the battery. Each ballast is fuse protected (15 AMP) along with the main power run (30 AMP) I made my own wiring harnesses using information and parts supplied at http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/headlamp-harness.html Excellent author and very helpful with anything HID related! I added a Toyota OEM fog light switch (lighted) on the dash. I removed one of the plastic plugs next to the side view mirror adjustment controls. I had to enlarge the opening slightly to get the switch to fit. I purchased the switch for about $18 from a Toyota dealer. More info can be found at: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/switch/

First, I like to say thanks to all who have contributed to the lighting feedback. My night vision is not the best combined with the stock lights on the 99' LX470. I live in the rural South. Lots of narrow and winding roads with barely any street lighting. In my area, much of the roads have thick green canopies of vegetative growth which doesn't allow for much star or moon lighting combined with occasional fog. After reading these posts, I tried a few options. I upgraded the low and high beams with PIAA X-treme White PLUS. Pricey bulbs. However, they seem brighter and provide a crisper color output. The folks at www.eautoworks.com can help you out. Great service and able to get the PIAA H3 yellow fog lights if needed. The above still didn't quite resolve my driving conditions and poor night vision. After reading the posts on HID and testimonies from others over the past few months, I made the switch. See next email for pictures.

I did the replacement. The diagram is a little off at least with a 99' LX470 The glove box will need to be removed. The filters are stacked on top of each other vertically not horizontally as displayed on the link. Regards, Paul