lex4me

Problem solved - after lightely tapping on the bracket with a small hammer to no avail (and after tightening the rack mounting brackets that hold the rack to the crossmember), I placed a small block of wood between the bracket and my floor jack and used the jack to push up on the bracket - the bracket rotated as if it wasn't even held in place with a lock nut. Ah, the power of hydraulics... :D

I am replacing my PS rack on my 91LS with a rebuilt one from O'Reilly's. Trouble is, the new one has the damper support bracket situated at about the 7 o'clock position rather than the 9 o'clock position once the rack is mounted. This results in the steering damper hitting the crossmember support when you go to mount it. The service manual indicates that you need a special service tool (likely a custom-sized thin wrench) to loosen the lock nut (which by spec is 53 ft lbs) which is hidden under the boot. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to get this bracket rotated where it needs to be? 53 ft pounds of torque is no small amount. I seriously doubt if it is possible to just tap it over. I suppose that i could always get another rebuilt unit from O'Reilly's, but I hate to wait even longer to have my car put together again.

I didn't take pics of that when I did the job, but just look for the metal bar that runs from one side of the car to the other. It should be attached to the frame by two clips. On my 91, I believe the clips were held in with 12mm bolts. I just removed the two bolts on each clip, pulled off the old bushing (it is split), put the new one on, replaced the clips, and tightened the bolts back up. I keep going on various week-long trips in the middle of my project, so I can't vouch for the difference that replacing these make (the car has been up on safety stands for about seven weeks). I actually would have trouble vouching for the difference anyway, I suppose, since I am replacing every single wear item up there anyway, from control arms to bushings to tie rods and ball joints. I expect the car to drive like new when everything gets buttoned back up.

Swar bar bushings are very, very easy to replace (two bolts that are easily accessible hold them on - about five minutes in work from start to finish). Lexus part #48815-50122 for my 91 - $10.04 each at Irontoad.com. List shows $12.55. After 130K on my 91, the driver side one looked somewhat worn, but the passenger side looked okay. I changed them both out regardless.

Any ideas on how I can get confirmation that the inner race is truly sealed as it is supposed to be? This whole fiasco got me wondering if it was possible to press the races in too tightly - after all, once metal is touching, it is touching, no? I'm not sure that the pressing in of races can exert enough load against the bearings to cause issues, especially as I think I read that the torque spec on the axle nut is something like 180 foot pounds (way tight). Perhaps the torqueing of the axle nut to spec gives this confirmation?

In case anyone is curious, I went ahead and R&R'ed the #1 oil pan on my 91LS with everything else that I am doing (I will one day have a working car again). I ended up supporting the drivetrain from the top instead of by the crankshaft, since that thought scared me. Basically, I placed clean shop rags on top of the fenders (to avoid scratching), placed two 2x4's running parallel with the car on top of the rags (to distribute the load), ran two 4x4's the width of the car that were spaced about a foot apart (more load distribution) that ended up just past the 2x4's, removed the nuts holding the motor mounts to the subframe, jacked up the motor using a 2x10x12 (again to distribute load) on top of my floor jack (using the oil pan for support) until it just barely hit the firewall, attached a chain at the two engine lift hooks and draped it over the 4x4's (connecting it as tightly as possible) and very, very slowly lowered the engine such that the weight was being supported by the 4x4's. I then proceeded to remove the subframe, which I have now determined you would almost certainly have to do unless you wanted to remove the oil pump pickup screen. An idea that a friend had that would have likely made a lot more sense would have been to place 2x2's the length of the underhood area, just inside the fenders so as not place load on an exposed part of the car that is very thin to begin with and not intended to hold much of a load. No damage done, though, and the oil pans are re-sealed and looking good.

You are looking for an air control valve. It is mounted on the passenger side of the PS pump and is downward facing in about the 7:30 position. You can get the part from Toyota, but I found Irontoad.com cheaper by about $20. Good luck!

It is tight enough that it will not keep spinning on its own (as the other side that I haven't done yet is), but I can turn it with my pinky. It is very, very smooth, though. It could just be the new grease, certainly. I am used to the american cars on jobs like this, where you turn the axle nut until it is tight and then back it off half of a turn, put your cotter pin in to hold things at that position at go on. It seems that there is no adjustment with this design. I am concerned about excess heat and therefore bearing wear, cruddy fuel economy, and having to tear this whole thing apart again.

I just got through tearing one side of my axle hub/knuckle apart to replace the bearings and pack everything again on my 91LS. When putting it back together, I used a shop press as indicated in the service manual, but the service manual never indicated what to do about getting the inner race (the one closest to the cap) back in. So...when the axle hub was pulled flush with the edge of the knuckle, I (possibly foolishly) put the inner race on the axle hub and continued with the pressing process to get it back on and pull everything together. Trouble is, I think I may have pressed that race on too tightly, as turning the axle is a bit stiff now. In addition, I have no way of confirming that the inner race is fully seated. The only way to correct this (unless there is some way to pull that inner race back out a bit that I am not thinking of) would be to use a puller in the same manner as I did initially to pull the hub out. This will result in me having to replace my brand new oil seal. Not a big deal, I know. Questions: Was the proper way to do this to: 1. Begin the pressing process as I did, but press until the outer race is fully seated before adding the inner race. 2. Press the inner race until things are just barely loose. 3. Use the axle nut at torque spec to push the inner race in until it is tight? Of course, I very well may not have pushed that inner race too far as it is...I suppose that there is no way to know, eh?

It is possible that your smoke is caused by a bad air control valve on your Power Steering pump. Check the two vacuum lines leading up from the pump for fluid inside. If you have some, $80 or so for the part and pretty easy to replace, especially if you are putting a new pump in anyway. I'd drop the alternator to make access to the pump bolts easier and go ahead and pull it apart while out (and at least replace the brushes - $12 from the dealer).

I remain in the middle of replacing my front end components, et al on my 91LS and noticed an oil leak coming from the union of the #1 oil pan and the engine block. Given that everything is apart anyway (even the rack is out), I thought that I would go ahead and drop the pan to reseal everything. Does anyone know if dropping this pan requires the removal of the subframe? It certainly would make for easy access to all the bolts, etc., but I don't have a cherry picker and am not sure how I could support the engine with the subframe off. The only idea that comes to mind (but it scares me) is that I could support the engine by placing a jack under the crankshaft pulley (using a wooden block to prevent damage). The concern with this method is that I might damage a bearing or something. Any ideas?

I just replaced the entire steering wheel (bought a used one on eBay that was in real nice shape), but there are quite a few happy campers that have purchased a wheelskins cover. Check out DCcarcare.com - he's quite the enthusiast and resells these. Good luck!

Steps for removing the alternator on a gen I: 1. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tension on the tension pulley. 2. There are two bolts holding the alternator to the engine. Remove the top nut. Leave the lower one alone for now. 3. Remove the engine splash shield. 4. Remove the passenger side tire if you want more access 4. Disconnect both electrical connections to the alternator. 5. Remove the lower bolt holding the alternator to the engine. 6. Slide the alternator to the forward of the car to get it off the top bolt. 7. Remove the alternator from underneath. You may find it helpful to temporarily disconnect the wires that are in the way (a grounding wire attached to the engine and a sensor - forgot which one), but I didn't have to. It was a trick to get the alternator to drop out though. FWIW, I did this as part of my P/S pump/rack/front-end rebuild job. By removing the alternator, I was able to get easy access to the lower P/S bolt that everyone seems to have so much trouble with. While the alternator was out, I replaced the brushes, which were about shot after 130,000 - they would have likely gone another 30K more, but that's about it. Good luck! I took some pictures of the old and new brushes that I'll post when the job is done - been travelling too much lately.

Haven't been able to work on the car for a week and a half since I was out of town. Back in the saddle again now, though. I'll let the list know how the hydraulic hose co does with fabricating a new high pressure line for me. On the replacement filter, I suppose that $17 for an extra inline filter that is easily replaced is cheap insurance. Thanks to this list, I learned about the solenoid filter just tonight - the solenoid needs to come off of the old rack and onto the new one from AutoZone - I would have installed it without cleaning this screen and instantly had crud in my system. Cruising this list is time well spent.

I purchased Kumho Ecsta KH11's for my 91 LS from tirerack. They have awesome reviews and the price can't be beat. If I ever get my suspension/steering rack/motor mount/alternator rebuild job done, I'll be able to try them out!

The ATSCO lifetime warranted AutoZone pump is listed as coming with a reservoir. The first time mine was ordered, it came without. The second time it was ordered, it came without. I then had Autozone call the manufacturer and got the reservoir as I was supposed to.

I have confirmed that the reman ATSCO pump from Autozone (with reservoir if you force the issue, see other post) comes with everything you need for a replacement power steering pump EXCEPT the air control valve. It seems that it would be a good maintenance idea (preventative or otherwise) to replace the valve if you are already replacing the power steering pump. I plan on pulling the alternator while I am in there, cleaning it up, and replacing the brushes to minimize the chances of it going south in the near term.

Where are you located?

I don't have the equipment necessary to machine a punch, but I am thinking that a flat disk punch like what I noted that you machined for your rear bushing would also destroy my bushing since the center of the OE bushing extends beyond the edge of the bushing. I was thinking of checking out a local home store for some water pipe of the proper diameter to match the outside diameter of the outer bushing shell and then using the cap that comes with ball joint removal kits to place over the edge of the pipe, thereby creating an open-air space for the part of the bushing that extends beyond the center of the bushing. I would then use your idea (thanks!) of a two-jaw puller to get the OE bushing out without damage. Now the only issue is finding the proper diameter pipe. Any ideas for creating a pipe sleeve of a given diameter if I am not so lucky as to find the right diameter at the local home store?

AutoZone called the manufacturer on my behalf Friday. They are shipping Autozone another pump, this time with a reservoir (albeit not connected). I'll let you know when I actually have it in hand. FWIW, Autozone recommended the addition of a PS filter. $17 and a special order later, I have an American Remanufacturers Inc inline 3/8" filter with a "deluxe" 3/8 nipple (no jokes, please), part #2210. Seems pretty basic for $17, but if it does the job and prevents me from having to replace all of this stuff again, I am all for it. I haven't made it to a local hydraulic hose shop for them to re-create my high pressure hose, but I plan to do that next.

I am indeed finding trouble locating a machine shop that can press out the old (new) upper control arm bushings. Everywhere I have gone, all they have is the same ball joint press that I already have with no sleeves thin enough and of the proper diameter to press the OEM bushing out. I think I will leave the new OEM bushings in the upper control arm and just hang on to the Daizen ones if the OEM ones go south while I still own the car, unless someone knows of a source that has fabricated a sleeve of the proper diameter to press the OE bushing out without damaging it. It just seems wrong to burn up a perfectly good and brand new bushing. FWIW, when I replaced my lower control arm bushing, I torched the old bushings out as well, but used Goo Gone to get rid of all of the excess charred rubber that remained in the control arm. It was a messy proposition, but I didn't have to do any sanding (thereby taking the risk of messing up my tolerances) to get everything smooth. After the Goo Gone. all I did was a very, very quick pass over the internals of the control arm with the wire wheel attachment on my dremel and I was home free.

I special-ordered a reman ATSCO power steering pump from Autozone (listed in their system as coming with a replacement reservoir as well) for my 91 LS since it came with a lifetime warranty and was $30 cheaper than the A1 Cardone with was listed as not coming with a replacement reservoir. The part came in yesterday, but did not have a reservoir with it. The Autozone guys ordered another one at that point, which came in today, again with no reservoir. Has anyone on this list ordered a replacement ATSCO pump from Autozone and had it come with a reservoir? It's not that it's that big of a deal to clean out the old one and connect it to the new pump, but I was hoping to avoid the extra hassle.

I am in the very slow process of replacing my front suspension on my 91 LS. As a small part of this project, I purchased a pair of new upper control arms from irontoad. The new arms came with new bushings. I had separately purchased a set of Daizen upper and lower control arm bushings ($99 for both sides, BTW - not bad at all...). I have already installed the lower bushings to replace my old ones, but am at an impass on the upper. Does anyone have direct experience with the Daizen bushings? I am concerned that I am going to have perfectly good (albeit OEM rubber) bushings pressed out in order for me to install the Daizen ones and find out that the car has lost all of its luxury ride. I don't mind a bit more tightness, but I definitely am not looking for it to become a track car. What I would really be after is an OEM or slightly firmer ride that would not degrade over time as the bushings wear out and is completely quiet. Any and all thoughts most appreciated. I do not want to have to tear into this again.

Okay...gotta ask: What else did you replace in your marathon parts replacement? Makes me wonder if I forgot something...

I'm planning on taking my old high pressure hose to a hydraulics hose shop to have them install new hose since I already decided that I was going to go ahead and replace the pump since it is leaking. Should be a whole lot cheaper than even the $125 that is available on eBay, plus while you wait service. :D I'll have to check with Autozone on the copper form to seal washers though - can't imagine that the hydraulics shop can take care of me there. Any thoughts on pulling the alternator while I am in there and powerwashing it? It has a layer of crud on it from the leaking pump.