Toysrme

If the valve remains installed into the valve guide which is pressed into the cycinder head (ie NOT dropped completely out of the guide into the combustion chamber)

Then it is absolutely impossible with any tool to change the valve stem.

This is a valve stem seal

This is where it goes:

The www.toyotool.com tool is not applicable to any DOHC Toyota engine that I know of. It is replacing valve stems that are located on the top of the cylinder head, while I can't name a single DOHC Toyota engine which does that. They're always installed on the bottom of the guide to keep them away from as much heat & prolonged mass oil exposure as possible.

That is the TOP of the cylinder head where the cams are located. Our valve stem seals are located underneath all that hanging upside down in the intake port.

please for god's sake ask this on every forum on earth when you could have googled everything you wanted to know inside of 30 seconds. sheesh newbies...........

137/139mph limiter, you'd almost likely never have a road that long, 0-60 in 8.0s, 1/4m in 16.0 @ around 89-91mph

post cat.

ya mine's 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 gallons i forget.

i know there's more than enough to drive atleast another 50miles on the open interstate before it starts caughing lmao

It's not the shop, axle nuts, crankshaft bolts, etc all self-tighten via centrifical force. (opposite threads)

Jam a 1/2" drive socket, or breaker bar onto the ground, disconnect the EFI fuses & tap the starter as short an instant as possible.

ta-da!

check the fuel pressure @ idle, then 5min after shutoff it should maintain 25psi.

otherwise maybe the pump, or to a smaller change the fpr.

vacuum leak

check:

vacuum leaks

ignition timing

plugs, NGK or Denso only.

No, that's what we're talking about.

The bottom of the head:

From the intake port:

The valve stem seals sit on that guide. Aslong as the valves are installed, the stem seals can NOT be removed. Again, go back to the analogy of a nut, bolt & washer. trying to get the washer off the bolt without removing the nut first. It's impossible.

It's a waste of money. It does nothing but read codes & reset them which can be done for free nearly anywhere.

Get something that can do logging. If that means blowing $50 on an old used palm then another $100 on the hookup & software so-be it. Or getting one of the newer laptop hookups do it.

It's under the steering wheel in the same vertical plane the brake pedal is in.

np. most autopart's stores will let you rent the smaller ones for a day. But be weary of extremely high prices (they basically make u pay 2-3x retail price as an incentive for you to bring it back. hehe)

you can use a smaller one, (i have one i use for external engine bolts & plugs) just don't expect to be able to do suspension pieces, or easily do head bolts.

why would you let someone replace the system when you don't know what is wrong with it? you like giving money away?

Read the ABS code, it will tell you the problem. Fix the problem. Typically it's just something cheap like a wheel speed sensor needing replacing, or has been knocked out of alignment.

Not in the North America forum. Try the (outside NA forums)

2500rpm = 66mph in 4th gear...

Your transmission is fine, you don't know how to count gears.

I'd do that now...

All that kind of stuff is 99% bull*BLEEP* chinese.

If you want quality you have to pay atleast 250% the price of that store stuff to get into more professional oriented tools like snap-on, ati, mac etc, etc.

Stuff like craftsman, kobalt, etc. The simple fact is they're all cheap crap. Honest to god you are best off now-a-days to buy all tools at Harbor Frieght with an extended warranty. You might aswell buy the cheapest cheap crap... Then when you need the random "real" tools you can afford to splurge on high quality stuff.

Most people use a 2 1/2" torque wrench. High quality. Mine's a used Snap-On (18-20yo) that I got for $50-75, then payed snap-on another $100 to recondition & recalibrate it. Those are like $300+ new I do believe.

The smaller 16-18" torque wrenches are OK (not as accurate but close enough) the problem is installing the major bolts. They're too small to get any amount of descent leverage on the wrench. Head bolts, axle, suspension componets, crankshaft bolts. Those things are completely useless.

Sooo, if you can't outright buy a $250+ torque wrench, get a small one. Just don't expect to do leaps & bounds with them. Go rent a big torque wrench, or find a mechanic friend.

Yes, HID's in federally approved HID housings with leveling control are legal anywhere in the US.

No halogen bulb comes remotely in the ballpark of HID bulbs.

Forget silverstars & all the like. The blue tint removes the msot useable light & makes them dimmer than $6 generic bulbs. Use the $6 phillips, or sylvania bulbs.

Yes, but you have to drop the valves down into the chamber, take the stem of through the intake port, put it back on, then the valves pulled back up from the chamber. (they hang upside down and the ports average 1.75"*1.5" and are sliced in half to around 1.25"*1.75 per runner in the siamese head ports.

And no you can't compress the cylinder to hold the valves in place. If you can't REMOVE the valves entierly from the valve guide / stem seal (sits on the bottom of the guide) then you can't remove the seal. It would be like trying to replace a washer on a nut & bolt while the nut was still screwed nto the bolt = aint gunna happen.

So the answer is... Yes. You can do it without taking the heads off. However, it is 5 bazilliondy times easier to do it via taking the heads off the top of the engine. You may aswell take the heads off & re-gasket the entire engine at one time...

(You pressureize the chamber to hold the valves up so you can replace the buckets, shims, retainers springs, etc. not valve stem seals.)

Awesome! I would like to add (i wish i did it but always do it now)

You can take any cylendrical type bushing (in our case front & rear swaybar bushings). Take the mount & the new bushing BEFORE installation. Drill a hole through one sound of the mount and bushing to the core. Now attach a 50 cent grease fitting in the hole.

Congratualations! Now you can re-grease your mounts instantly without hassle! because face it... At some point ALL of them need re-greasing. Typically they could use more within afew weeks of installation, but if it's a bad initial graese job they'll squeak from day 1!

What blows your mind is that when you're actually building the engine itself it's a sin to use a torque wrench except for like externial parts (vvalve covers, etc)

You meausre the stretch, not the torque. lmao. But ya. buy a torque wrench.

piggyback/custom management or modify it until it's about right anyway.

No, it's dumb for a hundred reasons. Not the first of which is the effort & labor involved for gaining *BLEEP* in accelleration performance.

The technical answer is yes. You could pay to have a customt ransmission made. You could also technically swapt o any other U series differential.

Technically you can modify anything you want, but nothing is avalible off the shelf. Plus It's not a rwd car where you ust drop the differential out of the car in five minutes of beating axles out. It takes hours upon hours of hard labor to get the engine & transaxle out. Separate the transaxle, tear the entire transaxle apart, tear the differential apart. Then rebuild it.

Yes it would do alot of good, and no it is a Y pipe. Not an X pipe.

Y = two inlet's one outlet.

Two cylinder banks feed into one pipe that stays one pipe. hence, a single exhaust.

I'd check the compression / do a leak-down on the cylinders. AND the coolant system.

I'd also replace the timing belt & water pump... The pump fins may have corroded off by now if the coolant has not been changed descently on-time.

4 speed automatic with a locking torque convertor.

You could run that car in second gear at 65mph for an hour (5200rpm). That needle should still not move...

At any rate the RPM's are dead on where they should be, and you can't count your gears right. :D two -> three -> four. and if you know the car & expect it. you can feel the torque converter lock-up the transmission with the engine when the criteria is met for the TC to lockup.

RPM 1st Gear 2nd Gear 3rd Gear 4th Gear 5th Gear 6th Gear

500 3 6 10 13

600 4 7 12 16

700 5 9 13 18

800 5 10 15 21

900 6 11 17 24

1000 7 12 19 26

1100 8 14 21 29

1200 8 15 23 32

1300 9 16 25 34

1400 10 17 27 37

1500 10 19 29 39

1600 11 20 31 42

1700 12 21 33 45

1800 12 22 35 47

1900 13 24 37 50

2000 14 25 39 53

2100 14 26 40 55

2200 15 27 42 58

2300 16 29 44 60

2400 16 30 46 63

2500 17 31 48 66

2600 18 32 50 68

2700 19 34 52 71

2800 19 35 54 74

2900 20 36 56 76

3000 21 37 58 79

3100 21 39 60 81

3200 22 40 62 84

3300 23 41 64 87

3400 23 42 66 89

3500 24 44 67 92

3600 25 45 69 95

3700 25 46 71 97

3800 26 47 73 100

3900 27 49 75 102

4000 27 50 77 105

4100 28 51 79 108

4200 29 52 81 110

4300 30 54 83 113

4400 30 55 85 116

4500 31 56 87 118

4600 32 57 89 121

4700 32 59 91 123

4800 33 60 93 126

4900 34 61 94 129

5000 34 62 96 131

5100 35 63 98 134

5200 36 65 100 137

5300 36 66 102 139

5400 37 67 104 142

5500 38 68 106 144

5600 38 70 108 147

5700 39 71 110 150

5800 40 72 112 152

5900 40 73 114 155

6000 41 75 116 158

6100 42 76 118 160

6200 43 77 120 163

6300 43 78 121 166

6400 44 80 123 168

6500 45 81 125 171

6600 45 82 127 173

6700 46 83 129 176

6800 47 85 131 179

If the engine could pull the 7100rpm fuel cut-off. It'd be 202mph.

While the transmission may make you *think* the engine is turning over quickly. It is most definately not. Let's face it... Peak power is 5200rpm which in fourth is 137mph, and you could never pull the redline in 4th. Which would be 182mph. Remember it's not a loping nasty !Removed! domestic V engine that falls over trying to turn 5500rpm. It's an import engine that can rev more tha 7000rpm without any modification and not throw, or float valves lol!

(it also makes atleast 90% peak torque for well over 4000rpm starting from high-idle)