WhiteSC3005SPD

Just a thought - my SC300 recently had a problem where it was running fine, and then suddenly started mis-firing, and barely ran at all. I pulled into a gas station, filled the car with gas and then tried to re-start. The car didn't want to start, and then started - but VERY rough. I was able to get the car back home, where it would not start again. I thought the issue was either electrical/electronic system related or gasoline system related. It turned out that the main electrical input wire into the distributor cap was cracked (almost in half!), so the ignition system was not getting any electricity to the spark plugs. Sounds like that might be your problem as well - rough running -- unburned fuel (caused by spark plugs not firing). I'd be curious to see if the distributor wires are OK (check for cracked or loose wires). Might be a quick, cheap fix. Good luck.

Thanks "JZZ30" and "Deton8ed" for all the help. The solenoid contacts ended up being the problem as you both predicted. I bought new starter solenoid contact kits for the battery terminal and the motor terminal from my local Toyota dealer and saved about $20. I bought some car ramps, a 3/8" drive universal-joint socket adapter and a 20" - 3/8" drive extension and was able to repair the starter in about 4 hours 15 min. The starter was a bear to get out of the car from the bottom, but after playing with it about 15 minutes, I was able to squeeze it out the bottom through a very tight space. Once it was out, I opened up the solenoid cover and discovered the worn solenoid contacts. I cleaned the inside, polished the solenoid brass piston surface, and installed the new contact kits. (NOTE: for re-assembly, the factory manual instructs you to hold down the solenoid contacts with a piece of wood using about 200+ pounds of force while tightening the contact nuts. This was WAY too complicated. Instead, I just held down the solenoid piston against the contacts as hard as I could by hand, while tighening down the two contact nuts. For final fine-tuning adjustments, I cut a small piece of paper and held it down between the piston and each end of both solenoid contacts. If the paper slipped out of one end of the contact, I used a wrench to slightly rotate the contact to make sure that the paper was snug. After doing this on both contacts, I was assured that the total contact surface of both contacts was level against the solenoid. Finally, to make sure that I did not twist the battery-side terminal contact when re-attaching the battery wire, I tightened that nut without the wrench - I just attached a socket to a 12" extension, and tightened the nut by hand (no wrench). After re-assembly, the starter fired up like new (as predicted by both of you)!!!

I had that exact same problem on my 1990 LS400. The tail lamp indicator was illuminated on the dashboard. I checked each tail light bulb with a multi-meter. All were fine. I cleaned all the contacts. Still the tail light wouldn't go on. I then noticed that one of the wires going to the light fixture had a connector that was screwed into the plastic base of the lamp holder. There was a second wire and connector leading from that screw to the bulb. After spending an hour trying all kinds of things, I took out the screw and analyzed the two connectors -- and found out that there was a slight amount of corrosion between them. I cleaned the two wire connectors with emory paper, put some lithium grease on them to prevent new corrosion - and the light worked perfectly.

Just a quick follow-up. Today, I paid special attention to what was going on when I turned the ignition switch. Every time I first turn the key to start the car, I hear the solenoid clicking, but the starter doesn't start turning. After I turn the key back and forth a few times, and more clicking, the starter suddenly kicks in and fires up the engine. I'm starting to wonder if this might be a starter/solenoid problem after all. I had a 1983 Supra that developed a progressively-worse starting problem, some times it started easily and other times I was lucky it started. At the time, the dealer said that the starter had a "flat spot" in the contacts, and therefore wasn't getting current. They replaced the starter and all was fine. Is there any simple way to test the starter by placing current directly to it to see if it fires up, and thus determine if it is an ignition switch issue, or a starter issue? (Or would it be easier to somehow test the ignition switch?) Again, any comments will be most appreciated.

I have a 1995 Lexus SC300 5 speed with only 72,000 miles. Lately, I have had trouble starting the car, and it seems to be getting worse. The battery is brand-new. It seems as though there might be a problem with the contacts on the ignition switch. If I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens. If I slightly move the key left and right, it finally makes contact at a certain point, usually left of the "start" position, and the engine starts right up. I have a gut feeling that this is an electrical contact problem in the ignition switch. Some members have stated that the starter solenoid can be a problem for some cars with starting problems. But, given the fact that the car starts every time when I play with the key. Any comments would be most appreciated.

I had a lot of trouble being too tall for my SC300. I am 6 feet tall, and and long in the torso. I did a ton of research, went to Lexus and Toyota dealerships, and made a ton of measurements and learned that Supra seats (93-98) will fit into the SC300. I had to make sure that I would get enough headroom, and that I would not lose the seat belt connector that was part of the original Lexus seat. (Many after-market seats don't have seat belt connectors). With the Supra seat all the way down, you will get about two more inches of head room - AND you will get tremendous amounts of lateral support -- a BIG improvement to the driveability of the car given its flat cornering. I extensively analyzed the construction of the original Lexus seat, but determined that I could only get about 3/4 inch improvement with modifications. I found a used beige, leather Supra seat from a used auto parts company. It looks so close to the original color, that no one notices that the seat is different until I point it out to them. The Supra seat was incredibly easy to install. The old seat was removed in about 20 minutes (it is MUCH heavier than the Supra seat - so be careful with your back when removing it). I made sure to put blankets on the original seat and to cover all parts of the car with cardboard so as not to scratch anything when taking it out. The bolt holes for the Supra seat exactly match the holes for the Lexus seat. I then made a tool for removing the original Toyota electrical connector on the seat by straightening out a paper clip and then flatened one end of the wire with a hammer. I then was able to slide out the two electric wires out of the power cord housing (the Supra Seat has only two wire connectors - the Lexus seat has MANY). I then inserted the wire connectors from the Supra seat into the Lexus power recepticle and the seat worked. I used electrical tape to make sure the Supra seat wire connectors didn't fall out of the Lexus Power recepticle. The only thing that I haven't had time to figure out is which of the many connectors in the Lexus power recepticle is responsible for turning off the Driver's Seat Belt warning light on the dash board when the seat belt is fastened. For now, the driver's seat belt warning light stays on until I figure out which connector will turn it off. Any suggestions from someone who has installed the Supra seat in their SC300/SC400?