Rave

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About Rave

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  1. Shipment should arrive this weekend sometime. I will try it first in one of my older cars with r-12 systems. I passed along your concern to the guy who sold me this stuff. I will post his reply. Rave ;)
  2. Works like a charm. Presure on low side of system is at min per my cheap gauge but A/C seems to work fine. Compressor works fine and stays engaged-air blows cold! Rave
  3. What is "414b". I recently bought a case of MacFreeze-supposedly a Freon replacement fluid. Is this the same kind of stuff as 414b? Advertisement says this stuff works better than R134a-more like R12-colder air less load on the compressor-less horsepower loss. Supposedly this stuff is compatible with either R12 or R134a Systems-no compressor oil change neccessary. No mention of "membrane" problems. What is the membrane anyway? There are other competitive products out there like Feeze 12 which is a different formulation. Is this one a problem also? As for R134 Wal-Mart sells it with a fill tube and pressure gauge for about $25. It is easy to put it in yourself. Comes with instructions, hard to screw-up. Low pressure side schrader fill valve is on the passenger side of the engine near the shock tower. Hose won't connect to the high pressure side-different fitting. See other posts on this forum. Mine was overfilled. Wal-Mart also sells R-134a with stop leak, leak detection die and system cleaner. No license needed. Remember R-12 and R134a cannot be mixed. Rave
  4. I had some luck working on above problem with my A/C. Compressor would not stay engaged. Only warm air would blow after the first 2-5 minutes of operation. Traced problem to the high pressure switch. A/C system has a switch on the high pressure side just before it goes into the firewall to the evaporator. Switch is near the top of the passenger side shock absorber tower. You can hear it cycle on and off as a very faint click about 1/2 second before the A/C clutch engages. If you put your hand on the switch you can feel it toggle from on to off. I jumpered this out and within seconds fired the pressure relief valve and some of my freon blew off. After this system works fine and blows cold. I think the system was overcharged and caused the high pressure switch to deactivate the compressor all the time. Funny thing is my fill gauge which only looks at the "low" side pressure was right on spec. I needed to look at the high side pressure but din't have the tools. This week should be a good test. We are expecting temps in the 90's every day. I hope it keeps working. Stay cool evereybody. Rave
  5. I found a new solution last night on e-Bay. Previous post is correct R-12 is available on e-bay. E-Bay stated policy is you must have an EPA Lisence to buy. My guess is this is not strictly enforced but I could be wrong. Another option is Freeze 12. Lots of folks selling it on e-bay lots cheaper than R-12. Search and you will find the manufacturers home page with all kinds of sales and tech info available. Has anyone tried this stuff? Manufacturer claims Freeze 12 can be added to existing R-12 or R-134a systems with no changes-just top off. Sounds too good to be true. Price is right less than $10/can if you buy several at a time. http://freeze-12.com/. Rave
  6. R12 is available but only from an EPA Lisenced dealer. Deal is they have to certify that they collect all R-12 and do not allow any to escape. Second they will test your AC System for leaks. If they find any they will fix them before recharging. Then they fill up your system. Total cost at your local non deaaler shop is $200-$400 per trip. If you have an older car that leaks a bit of freon every year you will be paying the "Al Gore Toll" on a regular basis. R-12 used to cost a couple of bucks a can and with a $15 reuseable part you can put it in yoursef. It is pretty easy. Lets hope it really saves the ozone layer but I have my doubts. Rave
  7. I don't think they are that rare. I have one I am willing to part with. I'm close to your price range and under you mileage. E-mail if you are still interested. :)
  8. Paul So from your message I gather the solution was to simply replace the engine speed sensor module? Or was there some other problem? I have had this problem (speed sensor failure) in other vehicles but it usually manifests itself as engine stalling at idle, and cruise control won't work etc. I'm not sure how this would show up on an SC. My air conditioning failure sounds like the problem in the original post in this forum. AC worked fine on cool days and works OK when first turned on. On a warmer day the AC progressively fails and after 15-20 minutes of driving puts out no cool air at all. The next day when I had a chance to check it out the freon pressure was fine. However on a cool evening with sunroof and windows open and AC on max cool the compressor clutch would engage for a second or 2 and then cut out. You can clearly hear this without even opening the hood. The compressor clutch makes a substantial click when it engages and the engine idle RPM increases about 500(from 750 or so to 1250 or so). Is this a systematic problem with these cars?
  9. The ad I saw made it sound like an optional seat from Lexus but when I called my local dealer he didn't know anything about it. What do the rest of you think? I am about 5'10" tall and I cannot sit comfortably in my SC without rubbing my head on the ceiling. As a result I drive with the sunroof open as much as possible. However this is a bit rough in winter. I have adjusted the seat every way I can think of and when my head is not touching the the roof the steering wheel is too far away. I think it is unlikely I am the tallest person driving one of these cars. How did all you other folks solve this problem?
  10. I saw an ad on e-bay a while back for an aftermarket drivers seat that gives you a bit more head room in the SC. I have been unable to find any recent info. Anybody have any clues?