There hasn't been a post on this for a while so I thought I would add my story and solution in hopes someone can learn from my experience.
I had the same problem with the idle. Car would not start unless I gave it gas and would die when I let off the accelerator. This is classic Idle control valve behavior. So I looked at AllData and the procedure is to remove the throttle body...I didn't want to go through all that so I looked for another way. Bottom line is that you really do need to remove the Throttle Body to do it right. The IACV is NOT just the black part pictured above...that is just the step motor. The valve is the assembly underneath and has 4 VERY tight screws. I had a hard time removeing them, even with the TB off the car.
Removal of the TB is not for the not so mechanicaly inclined...there are difficult nuts and bolts to reach, hoses to remove (including coolant hoses) and the bolt on the back side (12mm) attaches a bracket and is very hard to reach. The coolant hoses need to be plugged while you have the TB out of the car. Make sure you take a very good look at how the hoses are attached...it is possible to attach a coolant hose to an air port if you are not careful.
Once the TB is off, flip it over on a bench and remove the 4 screws that attach it to the TB. Be careful, there is a rubber/silicone gasket that is somewhat difficult to get back into the recesses when you reassemble. In the valve housing, you will see the actual valve. It rotates to open and close, metering the hole size, allowing air to bypass the butter-fly valves in the TB. Tha is how it controls the idle. Spray with carb cleaner until it is clean and the valve rotates freely. There is some freeplay between the valve shaft and the magnetized head. I was concerned that this was an indication of failure, but when reassembled, it worked fine.
Give the opening in the TB a good cleaning. You may as well clean out all the ports where vacume hoses attach. Re assemble the TB.
When placing the TB back in the car, slip the TB over the intalke manifold studs (you should use a new gasket but i couldn't get one over the Memorial Day weekend) and just start the nuts on the studs. Then try to start the bracket bolt (back side of TB). This was a little difficult...you have to do it by feel and it is very tight for your 12mm wrench. Once started, snug tighten. Then back to the intake manifold studs, snug fit first then tighten them to 14 ft-lbs or 200 kg-cm. I would attach the coolant hoses next, starting with the one on the bottom rear. After that, everthing is reverse order.
One last gotcha...it is possible to incorrectly reinstall the black motor back to the valve housing. Make sure the electrical connector is at the bottom of the assembly.
It is a pain to install everything in order to test the car...If you do not re-attach the Mass Air Flow sensor on the filter housing, the car will start and idle...but you will get a check engine light and it will sputter on reving the engine.
This is kind of long, but I spent 4 1/2 hrs today fixing this and wish I had known what I know now...I would still do the job, but it would have been better knowing what I was getting into. :D
