eman_be_lexin

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They are rated at 55 watt. I ordered another bulb harness and it doesn't fit the socket. It says it is for H7 bulbs but the connection is too small to fit the wide opening of the socket.

I managed to take the headlight out last night and noticed that the heat from the bulb melted the socket. The harness is fine and putting out 12V. I looked at the socket (the black piece between the headlight harness and the bulb) and noticed that the plastic melted around the metal contacts resulting in an intermittant power failure. I took a screwdriver and pryed the contact away from the melted plastic. The light is working perfectly now. It is bright and there is no delay anymore.

Does anyone know where; besides the dealership, I can find this socket?

Sounds like a great idea. I will give it a try tonight and see what happens.

I don't know how best to explain it but here it goes. My 97 ES has about 178k on it. I have Nokya Arctic white headlights. They have been in the car for 2 years come march. The issue I am having is that the driver's side headlight seems to have a mind of it's own. It comes on intermittantly. When the lights are turned on the driver's side light may not come on. It may come on after a while but there is no pattern. I noticed that the High beams work on both headlights but only the low beam on the driver's side has the problem. When the light does decide to work, it is much dimmer than the passenger light. The passenger light is bright blueish white but the driver's side looks like a regular bulb. Another thing I noticed was that when the lights come on, there seems to be a delay for the driver's side. When the lights are switched on, the passenger side comes on immediately but the driver's side may be a second or two late. What are your thoughts?

What Year?

I got Hawk HPS's as well on my 97 with 172000 miles on it.

do a search for "KYB ES300" on eBay. You will find the ones you are looking for far cheaper than anywhere around. At least what I found.

Here is the breakdown of the repairs done to my baby:

4 KYB GR2 Struts = $274 off Ebay (shipped)

2 Strut mounts = $136 Park Place Lexus

4 brembo D/S rotors = $189 off Ebay (free shipping)

4 Hawk Brake pads = $128 Tire rack (shipped)

Labor + 4 wheel align = $500.00

The ride is completely different now than it was a few days ago. There is no significant body roll, I can take corners at high speeds again, the car doesn't nose dive when I slam on the brakes, and the rear doesn't drop when I accelerate. The biggest difference is the fact that it seems to sit higher than it used to. My most favorate feature, no more banging sounds when I go over bumps. :D

Darcars Collision Center in Silver Spring. 301-902-2100. I took my 97 there the last 2 times i needed body work. They do excellent work.

I finally got my new KYB struts, strut mounts, brembo rotors, and brake pads on last night! :D. It never really dawned on me that all of those factors can make such a world of a difference. I noticed a few things while it was being worked on.

My mechanic was *BLEEP*ed off when he realized that he had to take the whole back seat and seat belt assy off to get to the rear struts.

I posted a problem a few weeks ago about my rear window defroster. I checked the fuse and it was blown, however; replacing it did not solve my problem. When my mechanic was taking the seats out he removed the plastic cover on the inside of the car from the C pillar. The connection for the defroster is in there and it is broken. It seems as if it was soldered on previously but it somehow came apart. I am just wondering if I am wasting my time by trying to solder it myself or do I have to purchase a new rear window. I really love option 1 better!!! B)

My mechanic also noticed that my lower control arms were completely worn out. Where can I get some? I saw them on Park Place Lexus for $159 ea. Is that a good price?

Your thoughts!!

It's a possibility! But it doesn't act like the battery is dead or going dead. It still cranks like it has enough power but when the engine turns over it seems like the engine has to build up to normal RPM's. It doesn't sputter or anything like that but it seems like the engine ignites but is not turning as fast as normal. Like I said, it is hard to describe so I can paint a clear enough picture for you guys.

I just put a brand new battery this past summer.

I just cleaned that in August. I don't think it could be bad so soon. Maybe I am wrong. I can check again.

It is kind of hard to explain but here it goes. Every time I start the car after it gets cold, it seems like it doesn't have enough power to start. The battery is new and I cleaned the IACV this summer. It doesn't act like it doesn't have enough juice like when a battery is dead. It still starts but it is a little slow. It still cranks but when it cuts on it seems like the RPM's are very low. I really can't describe it any better than that. The car runs great all of the time. This is just the one thing I noticed lately. She has 170K on it. New spark plugs, wires, clean IACV, new battery. Has anyone ever encountered this before? Any thoughts?

Don't you think it is wierd that with a car like we all have, the trunk/gas tank buttons would be backlit, as well as the Mirror controls? I wonder if it was a problem with the 97-01 ES models where those lights would burn out fast. I also noticed that the setup for those controls are similar to the previous generation Mitsubishi Galant. My best friend has one and when he drove my car he pointed it out to me. The crazy part is that his are backlit.

Are these controls backlit? I have owned my 97 ES for 4 years and :whistles: am just realizing that they are not lit up like all the rest of the controls. I would assume so considering everything else in the car is lit even the power windows on all 4 doors.

I am looking for a set of brake pads for my ES w/brembo cross drilled/slotted rotors. Has anyone ever heard of this company?

Does anyone know how to get to the connection to the rear window? It looks like I have to remove the liner from the rear panel.

The alternator is good as of 3 months ago when I had my battery troubleshot for problems. They said something about checking the alternator and it was ok. I didn't check the fuse because I figured that if the mirrors defrost and the light comes on, then the fuse is fine. Where on the window do I check for voltage and what values am I looking for?

I am having a problem with my rear window defroster. For some reason it does not defrost the window at all. It used to but it doesn't anymore. I have had this problem for a while and have never done or said anything about it. I know the rear defroster and the outside mirrors are connected. The Mirrors de-frost/fog but the window doesn't do anything. Has anyone had this happen before? The rear window is tinted and has been ever since I bought the car 4 years ago.

What the heck! Mburnikas Is that Arnold Shwartzn (I am not going to attempt to spell his last name) smoking a joint?

Lexus ES300 Brake Rotors Kvlar Pads

Has anyone ever heard of a company called lomandi before. I was on ebay looking at ES300 stuff and came across this posting. I am shopping for new front rotors and pads.

Is it a simple process for the average person to perform or should I leave it to the professionals?