IS_Willie
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Posts posted by IS_Willie
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My car (08 IS350) is scheduled for the accelerator pedal refit and an ECM reprogram which supposedly is to shut off the the fuel when the brake is pressed. What I am wondering is if this will effect normal driving? I assume that it will only be if the car is shut off but the dealer hasn't really explained. Anybody know the scoop?
thanks
Interesting that you posted this today. I just got back from the dealer with my '08 IS250, on which they did the accelerator pedal/carpet/ECU recall. I had the same concerns, because I had heard that depressing the brake and accelerator hard at the same time, after the ECU flash, would shut off the car... so I asked for clarification. The service mgr. said that if the ECU 'sees' the accelerator and brake being depressed hard simultaneously, it simply ignores the gas, and allows the brake to do its job. It doesn't turn the car off, or even cut the fuel off. I would imagine that there is a bit more to it than that, but I'd also wager that there are more than a couple of certified Lexus mechanics that peruse this board as well. Maybe one will chime in for us.
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Sounds more like fuel quality issue. You might have some water in your gas tank. I would drain the fuel tank, and refill it at another quality gas station. Maybe drop a pint of gas dryer/conditioner in there and run it out and see if that solves the issue.
totally agree, try to stick with premium 93 octane gas. you car will love you and stick with chevron and shell.
Thank you! I actually live right next to a Shell so that's usually what I use but we had some really cold weather here recently and that's what the dealer thinks might have caused water to get into my tank. I've tried running dry-gas through a full tank and I am almost on E now and my car almost cut off again today. So my hope is that if there was any water in my tank, it should be almost clear?
Does this always happen when your fuel is very low? I've always heard that it is better to fill the tank when it is at half way, rather than to let it pull all the way down before refilling.
Just a thought.
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How do I remove the Inner (closest to the engine) screw that attaches the side engine compartment cover? The other fasteners are the push through type. Manual says to turn the single screw type fastener counter clock wise and that will loosten the fastener but I am unable to remove the cover from that point.
Second question. The salesman that sold me the car said that the car did not have a timing belt. True or false?
Not sure about the engine compartment cover, but as to the timing belt, I found this:
Timing Belt (except GS 300 and IS)
Replace every 90,000 miles or 108 months. A qualified
technician should perform this operation. (The GS 300
and IS are equipped with a timing chain, which
requires no periodic inspection.)
Here:
Owner's Manual Scheduled Service PDF
On this thread:
IMHO, all vehicles should be manufactured with timing chains, rather than belts, but there is that whole 'planned obsolescence' thing that makes the dealers so much money.
Cheers!
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LA to Salt Lake for me this summer... with an average of 28.5 mpg for the trip! (And that was with the AC on, at 80 mph nearly the whole way)
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Great to know, that black dust is a b*tch. Gonna get my front pads replaced, but I noticed it says not to expect the same performance. Think I should stick w/my current pads? Wonder how much life is left in 'em...
replacement pads work the same. if your pads are too worn, they will NOT replace them for free under the TSIB. The TSIB works like the warranty does--items in need of replacement due to normal wear and tear are not covered.
Just an FYI...
It really depends on the dealer. I just took my '08 in for another issue, (broken wheel and destroyed tire from road debris, but that's another story!), and while it was there, I asked if they could do the brake TSB. My car has a little over 13k on the clock, but they warranted the pads anyway. They did advise that I have the rotors replaced, but I opted to pass on that, at least at the dealer.
Well, of course they did. 13,000 mi on your brake pads is not near the normal replacement time.
Makes sense, but it still seemed like a lot of miles for them to do the TSB fix... and as some have found, a few dealers will not do it with that many miles. I drive pretty aggressively, and I'm sure that my pads were pretty worn.
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Just do them yourself. I just did my brakes this past weekend and it's sickenly easy on the 350, I was suprised. I took the rotors off and had them resurfaced, cost $18 for the pair, brake pads cost about $60, overall it was an $80 job and my brakes are better than they were before. I had a slight warp in the front rotors and they are now fixed to perfection. FYI I used the Duralast Gold pads from Autozone, it's the best ceramic pads they make and I couldn't be happier.
That's really good to know! I'm curious did the shop say anything about the rotors being very close to minimal tolerance once they were turned?
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I just wasted a trip to the dealer today for them to tell me my brakes were too worn to get free ones under the TSB (35k miles). Ok. So then they quoted me $600 for a brake job, saying that since the rotors that come on the IS are "non-turnable" I have to replace pads and rotors. Anyone know anything about this?
Apparently, according to the dealer, the rotors come stock at a pretty close tolerance, and as a result, need to be replaced at each brake service. Smart from the manufacturer's standpoint. A small amount less steel per rotor, times x amount of rotors = more money in pocket, not to mention a few hundred dollars to replace the rotors each time.
Ahhh... the wonders of planned obsolescence!!
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Great to know, that black dust is a b*tch. Gonna get my front pads replaced, but I noticed it says not to expect the same performance. Think I should stick w/my current pads? Wonder how much life is left in 'em...
replacement pads work the same. if your pads are too worn, they will NOT replace them for free under the TSIB. The TSIB works like the warranty does--items in need of replacement due to normal wear and tear are not covered.
Just an FYI...
It really depends on the dealer. I just took my '08 in for another issue, (broken wheel and destroyed tire from road debris, but that's another story!), and while it was there, I asked if they could do the brake TSB. My car has a little over 13k on the clock, but they warranted the pads anyway. They did advise that I have the rotors replaced, but I opted to pass on that, at least at the dealer.
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I'm just saying that you could get in an old type car and drive away without a big warmup.
Ahhh.... got ya. For sure.
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Well now it's not always about cold start ability to drive. Older cars had chokes and fast idle controls. It's just not a good idea to start a cold engine and blast off at a high rate for several reasons.
Oh, no doubt, bartkat... I don't want to make it sound as though I start the car, and immediately flog the long skinny pedal. It is obviously a good idea to allow the engine to bring the oil pressure up, and get it circulating prior to putting a load on the drive train. That's exactly why I wait until the ECU completes its check before even putting it in gear. Older cars did indeed have limited, mechanical adjustments, but of course couldn't come close to the speed with which a computer can make corrections.
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I don't know, it sound like more of an issue than that. Idle is controlled by the ECU. Your only in the open loop mode for about 2 minutes at most. It's in complete control of idle and light load transitions. Can you make this happen under curtian circumstances? You may need to replicate it for the tech to experience what your saying is going on.Then they can look at the ECU reports and see if anything is logged to find out what is causing this.
^+1
Modern engines don't need to be 'warmed up' before driving off. In days gone by, it was necessary due to the fact that there was no computer controlling all functions... idle, air/fuel mixture, etc. The only thing I wait for before putting my car in gear is the system 'check' to complete, and I've never experienced any fluctuations or engine failure like you describe.
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I know this has been covered before at some point, but can anyone give me a quick answer on the best leather cleaner/conditioner for the leather and/or plastic in the car. I have a tan interior and want to know if there is anything I can use to assist in removing scuff marks. Also if anyone knows of any product that I can pretreat surfaces with that will make future marks easier to remove.
You're absolutely correct... it has been covered. A search simply using the word 'leather' came up with these:
Could there really be another one?
Ok... you're getting the idea by now.
Happy hunting.
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So I went to open my trunk this morning with my key in my pocket and nothing happened...it didn't budge. I took the key fob out of my pocket and pushed the trunk release button...still nothing....opened the drivers door and hit the trunk release button...still nothing. Doesn't matter if the car is on or off...key fob and all other releases are working fine otherwise. Anyone had this happen or know what the deal is? I have some stuff in my trunk I need to get out!!
Thanks!
Just a thought, did you happen to access your glove box and accidentally push the valet trunk cutoff switch?
thank you!! that was it, must have hit it by accident!
No worries... glad to help. I've done the same thing myself. With my previous car, I accidentally hit the power window cutoff, and, since that particular car was prone to power window problems, when my windows wouldn't go up or down, I took it into the dealer. I was just slightly embarrassed when the tech reached in and turned the switch back on, and my windows worked perfectly!
Glad you found out here, rather than doing what I did.
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So I went to open my trunk this morning with my key in my pocket and nothing happened...it didn't budge. I took the key fob out of my pocket and pushed the trunk release button...still nothing....opened the drivers door and hit the trunk release button...still nothing. Doesn't matter if the car is on or off...key fob and all other releases are working fine otherwise. Anyone had this happen or know what the deal is? I have some stuff in my trunk I need to get out!!
Thanks!
Just a thought, did you happen to access your glove box and accidentally push the valet trunk cutoff switch?
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Does anyone know how to get rid of sap stains on hood. Are there any products that i should use that will work. Please help.
I have always used a product made by 'The Wax Shop' called 'Super Glaze'. It is a liquid wax that utilizes a petro-based agent to carry the carnauba wax. It works really well on things like sap, and adhesives. Good luck!
(I HATE messy trees!!)
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Out of my maintenance manual for my IS350.....
Transfer Case/Transmission:
The transfer case/transmission
and transmission fluid are a completely
sealed unit. Therefore, periodic
checks and replacement of the transmission
fluid are not required, and
there is no dipstick on the transmission.
Any repairs that require adding
or replacing fluid should be performed
by a qualified technician following
procedures in Lexus service
and repair publications.
So pretty much they are saying you do not have to change the transmission fluid...ever? But you can if you want? I will definitely want to change the transmission fluid. At what mileage would it be appropriate? Southeast Texas where temperature is well over 90F 75% of the year.
ALL transmissions require service. Heat is the enemy of lubricating oils. The rule of thumb in the past has always been about 15k miles. BMW does the same thing. I had an older 5 series, in which the tranny had never been serviced. At about 125k miles, the trans started to go. When I found a reputable transmission shop, (interestingly enough, a former BMW certified mechanic), to rebuild it, (to the tune of $3200), he told me that the car manufacturer knows that the trans will last, in most cases, at least 100k, and by that time, the car will be out of warranty, and as a result, they are no longer responsible to make the repairs, but they certainly reap the rewards of those who come in to have the trans rebuilt. My suggestion, if you are planning to keep the vehicle for an extended period of time, is that you find a good reputable independent mechanic, and have the tranny serviced on a regular schedule.
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Badger is Badger and Lexus is Lexus. There is a whole spectrum in between. My dealer treats me like family.
This is the truth. There are sh__ty salesmen at every make. I'd let the GM know about it. Maybe the attitude comes top down, but if not, and the GM doesn't ever know about it, it will not be fixed. I'd think in Orlando you could take the price you were previously given, and shop it to another dealer. OR--call Ana, and give her an earful on this asshat she handed you off to, and tell her that he lost Ana a sale.
I say F*** the GM and Ana... go straight to Lexus corporate and lay your story out for them. I'd bet that they'll be willing to bend over backward to resolve this for you. They have a high end marque and a reputation that should not be represented like a second hand used car dealer, especially in the state of our current economy.
Like bartkat, the dealer I visit is completely professional, works hard to meet all my needs, and makes me feel welcome each and every time I am there.
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I'm 6'3" tall and fit quite comfortably in the IS. In fact there's more room than I need - when adjusting the driver's seat to go as far back as it can go I have to put in just a little more effort to reach the stereo/nav. Bottom line it's quite spacious so long as you're in the front seat and no one's sitting behind you.
Well put, and ditto. 6'4", AND 51 yo here. I prefer a bit tighter fit in a car, just because I like to feel the car around me. The only detractor I find, keeping in mind that my previous three cars were an Infiniti G35, BMW 525, and Acura Legend, is that it is a bit on the tight side entering and exiting the car. Once inside, I'm good... but as LEXUS IS250 AWD said, there isn't even enough room for an aardvark behind me.
But then I plan to buy a Porsche 997 once my lease is up, so, maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment!
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Thanks a lot IS_Willie, appreciate it !!
No worries, oh, and welcome! There are a LOT of really smart people here with really good information... just as long as you are willing to do a bit of searching leg-work, (finger-work?), before asking questions.
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Thanks for the quick response. My only concern was what if it ruined the engine, thought engine oil wouldn't last more then 5K miles.
Naw... you're good. Heck, when I was young and dumb, I had a Nissan Hardbody on which I put over 150k miles, and changed the oil exactly 3 times. Although it certainly is NOT advisable, today's engines are made very well, and can take a bunch of abuse. Many manufacturers advise oil changes at 7,500 miles. The benefit of having timely service records is mechanical longevity for the consumer, as well as the ease and profit of re-selling a Certified Used vehicle for the dealer.
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Hi Folks, I'm new here.
Maintenance light is on constantly since last night, 10K miles service is due. Wondering how far I can drive with that, can I put another 200-300 miles with the maintenance light on without harming engine.
Please advise, Thanks.
It's just the computer letting you know that the service is due. It's a maintenance reminder, not a trouble light. As soon as you get your service, they will reset the light and you'll be fine... no matter if you do it now, or at 11,000 miles.
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Hi All, is it possible to unlock all 4 doors by touching the Drivers side door with the keyless entry?
I know it does it with the passenger side door, but no luck with the drivers side
No... it's standard that the driver's side only unlocks when that handle is touched, and all four doors when the passenger handle is touched. To the best of my knowledge, there is no way to change that.
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Is there a way to close all the windows and the moonroof in one fell swoop (like with the remote or door lock button)?
With the unlock button on the remote.
Got an owners manual?
If not:
Check out "Entering and Exiting.pdf"
Holding down the unlock button only opens them, it does not close them. I do not know of any way to close them all in one touch no.
You're right!
Sorry... my bad. I had always just assumed that holding it down again would close everything. (I should be reading my OWN manual more closely!)
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Is there a way to close all the windows and the moonroof in one fell swoop (like with the remote or door lock button)?
With the unlock button on the remote.
Got an owners manual?
If not:
Check out "Entering and Exiting.pdf"
Ecm Reprogram For Recall (Brake Fuel Shutoff)
in 07 - 13 Lexus IS250 / IS350 / IS-F
Posted
Thanks for filling in the details Nick!
They gave me an RX to drive. They are really nice, but I certainly prefer the sporty feel of my IS. They also filled my gas tank. The girl who set my appointment told me that they would, so I made sure the tank was as low as possible when I took it in. ;)