Tomj8

I had this same issue with my'95 SC400 a couple years ago. The 'bar' mentioned by the dealer is no more than a short metal rod and used ones can usually be found on eBay for a few bucks. Be certain you are buying the one for your year and model, as there are several types. The attachment clips are plastic and can also be purchased new from Toyota or on eBay for a few bucks each. Any competent mechanic should be able to do this repair - dealer not required. The driver side door lock linkage is different from the right side but the clips are universal. The hardest part of the job is removing and replacing the door panel but YouTube videos are available on how-to. BTW, this is a very common problem with Toyotas and Lexus because of (guess what) that aging of that plastic clip which eventually becomes brittle and breaks. I cannot imagine why Toyota didn't use a metal clip as they did in the good old days. I suppose the answer to that is a guaranteed $500 repair somewhere down the line.

Hi, great timing since I just resolved this identical issue with my '92 SC400 (165,000 mi) last week. Mine was slipping, mostly in first gear and mostly before the engine reached normal operating temperature. It may seem simplistic but check the fluid level - that was the only problem with mine due to slowly leaking seals. Be sure to check the fluid level at operating temperature, in park, at idle, and be sure to wipe the dip stick clean before you measure. One final caution - add fluid slowly and re-check, DO NOT OVERFILL! Hope that takes care of your problem as it did mine.

I have a '95 SC400 which blows (AC or heater) at only the highest setting no matter the fan speed selected. I am told this is due to a failed BLower Control Module, which is a small plug-in module that is usually located under the dash near the glove box. I have not yet attempted to locate it and replace it, so I can't verifiy where exactly it is or whether that would remedy the problem but the two symptoms do sound like a fan speed control issue, so it is logical the cure will be the same for both. Anyone with specific information, I would definitely appreciate a post before I proceed.

The exterior passenger door handle linkage broke broke awhile back on my '95 SC400 and the door could only be opened from the inside. Now the interior handle itself has broken and I'm forced to address the issue of access to the passenger seat. Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the passenger door panel? I have some of the plastic door clips ordered to fix the linkage as well as a door handle for the inside but I've removed every screw and fastener I could find and the door still seems firmly attached somewhere in the general vicinity of the arm rest. I finally had to give up and put it back together. I'm stumped. If anyone knows the secret to getting the panel off, I'd appreciate hearing all about it ASAP. Thanks in advance.

Classic symptoms of starvation for air or fuel... have you replaced air filter and/or fuel filter as part of your tune up? Just a thought. :whistles:

Like other recent posts here, my '95 SC400 AC/heater blower always runs on "high". In AC mode, the engine idle is also high and it only works on MAX cool. I'm told the Blower Motor Control Module behind the glove box is the likely culprit but I'm not so far able to get the glove box completely out. There are two screws under covers up top, and two others on bottom but the upper lip of the box appears to be trapped under the dash pad and I'm so far unable to figure out how to get it free. If anyone has done this and can give me a clue, I'd appreciate it.

I have a '95 SC400 with 182,000 miles and similar symptoms... a slight vibration when accelerating and a roar or slight shudder when decelerating. There is also what appears to be a bit of 'slack' in the drive line detectable when getting on and off the accelerator at speed. I've been told these symptoms point to a deteriorated drive shaft center bearing support. The center bearing support is a rubber mounted bearing that stabilizes the two piece drive shaft and can be replaced. Universal joints are also a possibility, but these, I am told cannot be repaired and are less likely to be the cause. I have not yet attempted to make the repairs, and would be interested in second opinions.

Last year I had my Climate Control Module refurbished because the display was out and the A/C was not working. Recently the heater started acting up, and I'm wondering whether the CCM controls all HVAC functions such as fan speed, etc, in addition to temperature. The display is fine but no matter the fan setting, it's on High. Temp control is OK, but even with mode set to blow at the feet, air comes out the dash vents too. I've checked fuses, etc, and find no problem so I suspect CCM again....can anyone verify these symptoms fit within the CCM's range of influence?

Check the battery/starter cables and the starter motor itself. If a jump start does it and the battery is charged, either cable connections or starter motor could be demanding above normal current.

The starting circuit consists of only a few components: Battery, cables, solenoid (relay), and the starter motor. Since you appear to have eliminated the battery as a suspect, next check that battery cable connections are clean and secure at the starter, solenoid, etc. If battery cables are OK, then suspect the starter solenoid itself. If the solenoid checks OK, suspect the starter motor. Hope that helps.

Does A/C function normally? Can you rule out the Climate Control Module - do you have a display and can you control fan, etc? The climate control module controls the HCV and A/C thermostatically. If your CCM display is partially black or degraded, that could be an indication CCM is not working. Conduit in place of the HCV would effectively bypass the ability of the CCM to control the heat and would provide full heat all the time - does that sound like what's happening? If CCM isn't working, putting the HCV back under CCM control would effectively shut down the heat. CCM sounds like a suspect. Many postings on here have dealt with getting CCMs refurbished through Mikado Technologies in California - don't even think about buying one from a dealer. $$$$!!!!

The climate control module failure (usually accompanied by a black or absent display) is fairly common. Dealers want over $1000 for a "new" one (usually refurbished), or you can take your chances on eBay or a salvage yard for a used one (be careful - all years and models are NOT the same). But the best bet is to contact Sammy Wu at Mikado Technology, 8840 Forest Street, Gilroy, CA 95020 (650)615-9966. Or email Sammy at sammywu@sbcglobal.net and ask about getting yours refurbished. A local Lexus dealer put me onto these guys and they are used by dealers across the country to rebuild these climate control modules. Good guys. Over a year ago, they were charging around $200 but costs can vary depending on specifically what is defective in yours. Its the best deal you're likely to find on getting this taken care of. Best of luck!

As I understand it, you can challenge your insurance company to locate one like yours for the value (price) they have come up with. Just a thought; if they can't find one, I'd think you might have a pretty strong case for an appeal with your state insurance board - if it has to go that far.

Contact Mikado Technology, 8840 Forest Street, Gilroy, CA 95020 to have your climate control unit refurbished by experts for around $200. Call (650)615-9966 or email sammywu@sbcglobal.net. Lexus dealers use this service.