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Knew there was something I forgot to mention. I did the check as it was in the manual by bridging the +B and FP circuit on the diagnostic box. I could hear the fuel pump and the injectors. From what I understood, there was no reason to suspect the fuel pump. Was I wrong in assuming this?

Will certainly change the plugs. Thanks DC! I was actually planning on doing that but I can't seem to find anyone that carries Denso around here. I found the NGK and Autolite but that was it other than the ones I have now. I checked the TPS but it is giving some really weird readings so I've decided to replace it anyway. I found one that is tested and warranteed on ebay for $30 so that should be here at least by Tuesday. Should I check anything else in the meantime? My friend did some kind of check while I was gone and he keeps telling me that I'm getting fuel but it's not enough to keep it running. Could the TPS be causing that or should I be looking elsewhere for the problem?

Update: Just finish the compression check. The specs show they are supposed to be between 142 minimum and 178 max. I've got 165 to 178. Soooo it's not the compression. Just out of curiosity, I checked the plugs again so that I knew the plugs and wires were okay at least. Each one of them fired but a couple of them were kind of an orange-ish color and not white/blue like I've heard they are supposed to be. They are Bosch platinum plugs. The manual says that this vehicle runs best on platinum tipped plugs. So my question is, is there something wrong with them or could it be the distributor cap? I'm going out now to check the TPS with the ohmmeter. My friend has shown me how to use it and I can at least try to get the readings now. Anyone who has any other input is very welcome to comment. I would really appreciate any insight I can get. Thanks!

Thank you for that reply. I've just re-checked the timing, just to make sure and for peace of mind I suppose. I have not checked compression as of yet. My friend has a compression gauge but he keeps telling me that it doesn't "act" like it's a compression issue. However, I think I'm going to do that next anyway. Again, just to make sure and for peace of mind. As for the cold start, I took it out and cleaned it thoroughly and as much as it could possibly be cleaned, then put it back in. I didn't think that would fix the issue of it running when I give it gas but another "just to make sure". The TPS specs that you have are the same as what I have seen in the manuals that I have but I have no idea what I'm doing with the ohmmeter. I guess I will have to start learning how to use one or at least the one that he has in his garage. I will post again after I've done the compression check. Hopefully that isn't the issue because I really don't want to have to take the head back off again. LOL Thanks again.

I've went through everything I can think of to try and figure this out but I'm completely stumped. I have a 1993 ES300 V6. I'm getting tired of working on this thing so I really need help figuring this out. I do NOT have enough money to pay a garage to find and fix it for me so I'm doing this all myself. I would appreciate any input so I can make a list of things to check. I would also appreciate it if I could get a "How to" on whatever it is I'm checking. Here's my issue: It is very hard to start at first but after at least 10-20 tries, it finally does and it will idle. As soon as I try to give it any amount of gas (ie... pressing the pedal even slightly) it dies. Here's what I've done so far. Changed head gaskets Timing belt Water pump MAF EFI (SFI main relay). I have done the test for the fuel system by connecting terminals +B and FP of the data link connector 1. Cleaned everything I can think to clean in and around the throttle body and replaced everyt gasket there was on it. Checked the hoses and they all look good and/or if they didn't, then they were replaced. A year ago I had the fuel filter and injectors changed so I'm guessing those are still good. The spark plugs are fairly new. I had a problem about a year or so ago with the ECU so I had a rebuilt one put in. I checked each spark plug and wires for spark. Checked for fuel again by taking the hose loose from the cold start. I can only think at this point that it has to be one of these things but I'm not sure how to check them. The distributor cap looks okay but it has a tiny chip on one side next to one of the screws. The TPS, not a clue what I'm looking for to check on it to see if it's working. The fuel pressure regulator. The opening circuit relay. Or the ECU has gone bad again. I'm sure I probably left out a few things somewhere. I just REALLY need help figuring this out. I'm getting ready to move and it needs to be fixed SOON!

Thanks everyone. Got a new gasket just in case.

Hey guys, I have a 93 ES300 3V. I just replaced the head gaskets, along with some others. After installing all of it, I realized that no.5 cylinder had no compression. Long story short, it was a stuck valve, which I fixed. I had to take the head back off again but have still not started the car. I was wondering that since I haven't cranked/started the car, can I use the same head gasket that is still new?

Okay I'm not getting any emails telling me I have a response and yes I did the whole "email me when" thing. LOL Anywho, I took all of the stuff back off....again...so I could see at least under the valve cover and I found out that the valves are stuck down only on that one side. I've been trying to figure out a way to get them to pop back up and lube the crap outta them but it seems I'm just going to have to take the head back off again. My friend, who thinks he knows what he's doing, started banging on the side of the head with a hammer and then he took a piece of wood and banged on top of the valves to try to get them to move. Yea I didn't find out until afterwards and no need to say what my response to him was cuz it's Well, now I'm going to have to take the head off to make sure there isn't any major damage and to clean out the little tiny chunks of wood from it. Oh well I need to take the darn thing off to get to the valves anyway I guess. Unless someone knows of a way I can get them unstuck without having to remove it?

Thanks fish, I already had that diagram but I will email you that beer anyway. I just found out too that my no. 5 cylinder has no compression if you or anyone else can tell me what to look for to figure out why? I'll email you a 6 pack if you can help with that one. Oh and, if the timing is off, will that cause it not to have compression in one cylinder? I read a few things in searching and that's the only thing that has come up so far.

I posted this once on here and then on a few other sites as well but never got a single response. I don't think anyone knows the answer to this problem. Do I need to just junk my car or what? :cries: I read my other post again and realized it sounded a bit confusing in itself so here I am trying this again. I searched all of the post and really came up with no answer on what to do about this. I have the 3vzfe engine on a 93 Lexus ES300 V6 and it had a blown head gasket which was really bad. I replaced the gasket both head gaskets, along with quite a few others, the water pump, radiator, etc... I did not get a new timing belt because the one that's on it looks almost brand new but it had none of the marks on it. I did mark the TB with the marks on the pulleys and TB cover but that's the only place I marked it. I'm now getting everything together and am at the point where I have the crankshaft on "0" mark, LH (front) on "single dots" and RH (rear) camshaft on "double dots" just like the repair manual said to do. The distributor is not on no.1 yet but it would be if or when the camshaft is turned. NOW here's the confusion..., I can get the LH (front) camshaft and pulley all lined up but to get the timing marks on the RH (rear) pulley to align, the cams have to be turned quite a bit (180 degrees) to get the timing marks aligned with the timing belt cover. (The manual doesn't specify whether it needs to be turned clockwise or not either.) When this happens, the double marks on the cams are not aligned anymore but the distributor is now pointing at the no.1. Is this normal? I figured if they are still in sync, which they are, then it's ok to turn the cams to get the timing marks on the pulley and back cover aligned. The manuals are extremely poor at explaining any of this and I wanted to make sure before I finish putting it together. Am I supposed to turn the rear camshaft, even after the "double dots" are aligned, which will throw off the camshaft marks, just to get the pulley to line up and then put the belt back on? I'm really confused here. One other question, I know TDC on no.1 is supposed to be on compression and not exhaust. If the crankshaft is on "0", how can I tell if it's on compression or exhaust side? I would really need my car back like yesterday and would really appreciate all the help I can get. This is my only car and I don't have the money to have someone else do this for me. :( Thanks in advance

Sorry I still haven't gotten anything from anyone on 4 different sites yet and no one seems to know the answer to this either.

I searched all of the post and really came up with no answer on what to do about this. I have the 3vzfe engine on a 93 Lexus ES300 V6 and it had a blown head gasket which was really bad. I replaced the gasket both head gaskets, along with quite a few others, the water pump, radiator, etc... I did not get a new timing belt because the one that's on it looks almost brand new but it had none of the marks on it. I did mark the TB with the marks on the pulleys and TB cover but that's the only place I marked it. I'm now getting everything together and am at the point where I have the crankshaft on "0" mark, RH (front) on "single dots" and LH (rear) camshaft on "double dots", along with the distributor on the no.1 just as the manual said to do. NOW here's the confusion..., I can get the RH camshaft and pulley all lined up but to get the timing marks on the LH pulley to align, the cams have to be turned quite a bit to get the timing marks aligned with the timing belt cover. When this happens, the double marks on the cams are not aligned anymore and the distributor is no longer pointing at the no.1. Is this normal? I figured if they are still in sync, which they are, then it's ok to turn the cams to get the timing marks on the pulley and back cover aligned. The manuals are extremely poor at explaining any of this and I wanted to make sure before I finish putting it together. Am I supposed to turn the rear camshaft, even after the "double dots" are aligned, which will throw off the camshaft marks, just to get the pulley to line up and then put the belt back on? I'm really confused here. I would really need my car back like yesterday and would really appreciate all the help I can get. This is my only car and I don't have the money to have someone else do this for me. :( Thanks in advance

I'm having the same problem with mine. 93 es300. After setting the front cams to the aligning "single dots" and then setting the rear to the double dots, the belt pulley is off but my manual doesn't tell to turn the crankshaft, camshaft or anything else to get the pulley lined up with the timing mark on the #3 belt cover. I'm lost and not sure what to do from here. Did you ever find out whether to set everything to TDC, including the distributor and then turn the rear camshaft until it is lined up with the marking on the cover? Also, am I supposed to put the belt back on before I turn the rear cam? I'm sooo lost on this.