mickg

Josh; I had the same issue with vibration at 65 mph with my 2005 with 130K miles. I thought I needed new front shock absorbers - the tire guy at the dealership recommended road force balancing for all wheels.

I had them road force balanced, and all vibration issues went away.

No amount of conventional balancing cured it; $160 and well worth it.

Mike: I've had 4 snows on my 94 in Denver the past 11 years, no problems getting around town except the foot deep snowfalls. I always kept a set of chains in back - just in case. Actually used them one afternoon, fantastic self-help to get out of an off-camber rise.

This car is now surplus; I have a '14 IS-250 and a '13 RX250. It is gold with 181K, service records back to 2001 as a CPO unit. If you have any interest, send me a text to (303) 881-4401.

Cheers,

Mick

Hello Mario.

I am about to lease a new IS-250, and my trusty '94 LS400, gold with 179K will be surplus. I've had it 11 years, serviced every 3000 miles, new timing belt, steering rack and shocks, and instrument cluster.

Great car, straight body, just time for something newer.

Email me at mickgavril@aol.com if you have any interest, and I can send you some pics.

Mick

Thanks CuriousB. It started working properly by itself. Must be due for a cleaning.

My 17 year old son has taken over the '94 LS400 for the past 18 months; proud to say that he is taking good care of it - up to 165,000 miles now.

The shift interlock solenoid suddenly quit working - the shift lever can move from park through all of the gear positions without the key being turned on, or the brake pedal being depressed. Like the good old days.

I note that the solenoid is fused with the ECU and remote door locks. These all function fine. I presume this is just a solenoid replacement?

Mick

I had the same issues with the chrome rims on my '94 LS. I had Discount Tire swab each rim with sealer, and install snow tires on all 4 rims.These rims were corroded in the baead area, which was the source of the leaks.

I then went out and bought a second set of rims for summer duty. With two sets of tires and rims, Discount swaps them out and balances for free each season. I thought it was a pretty good deal.

I had Jim Walker in California do my dash circuit board a couple of years ago. My mechanic removed it, sent it off, and replaced it while I was on vacation.

Totoal cost installed was around $300. No problems since then. Mr. Walker's service is highly recommend.

Mick

I just ordered and installed (2) new hood struts, part # 4572/10727 from LiftSupportsDepot, out of Carlsbad, CA.

I paid $25 each, plus ground freight, and they came complete with the correct ball joint fittings. Perfect fit, with no alterations required. 1/2 hour job, and now I can throw away that broomstick prop! For reference, their website is www.autopartsbylou.com

Mick

My water pump gave out at 130,000 miles, so it was time to change the belts, pulleys and pump. The belt did have surface crazing and minor cracking, whcih we had been keeping an eye on. Now, for a grand, she's good to go for another 130K.

Craig:

AOL won't let me open the video, however my '94 with 125,000 does 60 in about the 8 - 9 sec range, even in the thinner air of Denver.

Mick

Hi Guys!! :)

Please click on THIS and download a 4MB video of my 1993 Lexus LS400 gauges as I am going from zero to 60 mph. [and beyond] The results are always the same. Could you THEN [after watching the little video] let me know IF I am imagining things or IF my LS400 really DOES take longer than it should to get up to speed.

I would really appreciate it.

For comparison purposes - it would make more sense if other owners of the 1st generation LS would respond. [but I would be grateful for any responses]

Thank you very much.

Craig!! :)

Note that in the Owner's manual, if you don't use the vehicle for "Taxi or Police" there is no requirement to change the timing belt at any particular mileage.

Routine inspections are all that are required. If the water pump or tensioner are giving problems, this is an obvious time to do the complete job.

Otherwise for normal driving, don't fix it if it's not broken.

Mick

NC211:

This may be obvious, but are all 4 tires the same?

I put standard snows on the rear of my '94, and it tram-lined all winter. I didn't believe the tire boys when they suggested a full set of H rated snow tires.

I have been very pleased to put the everyday M&S tires back on. No more darting for the bushes. The thing was close to dangerous on dry highway at 65 mph.

I put it down to the different tread width, plus sidewall construction.

Mick

I recommend Comprehensive Car Care, 701 E. Evans, Denver, 80210 (303) 722-0888 Jeff / Joe

I have used these guys to service my '94 LS for the past 2-1/2 years. Very honest, upstanding people, reasonable rates.

Mick

How do you buy the shims?

Do you measure the individual clearances, note the existing shim thickness, add the required differential measurement, and then purchase just the shims required?

Or does Toyota supply a "variety shim pack"?

Mick

Gumart:

I would suggest you take your multimeter, and check charging voltage, which should be above 14 volts, with engine running and all accessories off. Leave the engine idling and come back in 10 minutes, and make sure the voltage regulator is doing its job and keeping the overvoltage at 14 or better.

Then shut it down, and place the ammeter into the battery circuit, and see what the current drain is for security system, etc. Take the battery amp/hour rating and divide by the drain rate; this will give you a rough clue to how long you should expect a new battery to last. I'm not sure what the factory spec would be, but I leave my '94 at the airport for weeks on end, and the electrics work fine.

I once installed a refurbished alternator that checked out fine on the bench, and installed, however as it warmed up, it lost voltage until the car ran on battery alone until there was insufficient electrical power to keep the ignition and accessories going. I died a number of freeway deaths until I figured that one out.

Look in your local Yellow Pages under "Seals" or "Hydraulic", and you should find a number of business that sell hydraulic fittings of all configurations.

Note that the Lexus will probably be metric, which is no big deal. These guys can also look at the joint configuration and make sure the selected seals have the right compression.

You can make your own with an O-Ring kit, but in brake applications I wouldn't recommend having a joint in my o-ring.

Mick

Hello.

I have a LS 400 1990. Recently, the break fluid is leaking badly. I found out the leak was coming from the trac actuator pump. I took the pump out and found out that the 2 O rings was bad and cause the leak. I took them to all the local parts stores but could not match them. They all either bigger or thinner. I went to the Lexus dealer to buy but they said dealer do not sell the O rings separately. I have to buy the whole unit that cost over 2000$. I felt that Lexus is very ripped off!!!

Do you know any way to fix this problem or some place that I can buy the O rings to repalace them. Much thank you!

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Thanks Pachocco.

I think I will have it done by my local mechanic. By the time I get all the tools and pullers, he'll have it done.

Interesting to note the endplay figures given - I will check those. I just wish that Lexus hadn't gone the low rated double ball bearing route for a cantilevered bearing arrangement. Poor design if you expect a long life.

Mick

This is what I have for 91. Could be the same.

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My left rear wheel bearing has a "clunk" in it when I pull and push on the wheel itself.

Is this a DIY replacement procedure? Didn't I see a post on this procedure a long time ago?

Appreciate the input.

Mick

My '94 Owner's Manual lists two maintenance schedules: A & B.

Timing belts are listed for replacement at 60,000 mile intervals, but only under Schedule A (extensive idling, low speed driving, police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use).

Interestingly, replacement is not called for AT ALL under Schedule B, which defines all other driving styles.

I have to then believe that with routine inspections, my timing belt should last at least until the water pump gives out, and then the job becomes worth the cost and effort.

If rupture of the TB resulted in catastrophic failure of the Gen I engine, surely this would be noted in the maintenance schedule.

gen1 (90~94) & gen2 (95~97) are all non-interference engine. gen3 (98+) are VVTi which is an interference type to get more horse power.

90~96 is recommended to change TB at 90K, but for 97 and up, lexus factory recommends 120K or 7-year whichever comes first.

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Last week when I was in Minnesota, I met a travelling salesman with a '92 LS400 with over 450,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. He purchased it used with about 70K on the clock.

He claimed that he had no major repairs other than oil/filters and routine scheduled maintenance.

Interesting that there are many posts regarding suspension wear on these Gen I vehicles with significantly lower mileage than this unit. It looked in great condition.

3 Questions...

First, I know the subject or higher mileage LS400's has been addressed here, but should I be weary of an LS400 (1990) with 240,000 miles as long as it has been cared for? The one I am looking at has been converted to Mobil 1 synthetic at about 140k, and I don't see any major oil leaks at this point. The engine sounds smooth (no ticking) and strong. I do know that it is due for a timing belt change soon. With these miles, will it last "forever"?

Second, is it fairly easy for a do-it-yourselfer with little experience change the serpentine belt and hoses, and are there any other drive belts besides the timing belt that need periodic changing?

Finally, should I avoid this car at all costs just because it has the "air suspension" option? Right now the suspension works fine with no problems. Or can I just convert the suspension if I do have problems. Thanks!

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If the surface under both tires is slippery enough then both tires will spin with very little engine torque.

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I went and bought studded snows for the rear, like I know I should have done in the first place.

A vast improvement in ability to get going and to be able to stop again.

As an aside, I remove the control cable during the summer months and tie the valve into the fully closed position. Improved cooling efficiency and slightly better MPG.

That's a great idea. :)

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I just did my '94 heater control valve. Very simple DIY job. Same part price, local shop wanted $200 to change it out.

Mick

I have a 98 LS 400 that is doing the same thing I'm going to replace the strut rods on both sides total cost of parts $ 180.00

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Morgan:

My '94 makes a similar noise, only when the mornings are cold though. It comes from the stabilizer bar bushings, even though they are in good condition.

A shot with silicone sprayat the bar/bushing interface on both sides works wonders. I need to repeat about every 3 months.

Mick

Hi SRK!! :)

I appreciate the help. I also appreciate the offer to go for ride, etc. However - I'm just not comfortable with that idea. [for one reason or another] Nothing personal - I assure you. My car is going back in on Thursday. I'll be sure to mention the throttle linkage. I'll also ask them to check the 'cats' to see if something is wrong there. Trouble is - now [i think] they're humouring me because THEY don't think there is a problem with my car. But I wonder how satisfied they would be if a car they bought took anywhere from 4 to 6 seconds LONGER to get up to 100 kph then other cars of the same year, make and model.

Hi  ArmyofOne!!

Thanks for the suggustions. I'll ask them [this Thursday] to do a fuel line pressure test. [if that's possible] But only after everything else has been checked, fixed and/or adjusted. [such as the throttle 'butterfly', etc.] If it IS 'bad gas' and varnish HAS narrowed the fuel lines - then what?! Can something like that be cleaned? Or is that a HUGE job? [i.e. huge $$$] Oh no... I'm getting myself all worried again!!

As for testing it from 0 to 60 - I've tried everything - ECT on, ECT off, pedal to the metal, pedal just to the overdrive button, pedal half way down THEN to the floor. Nothing makes it faster then what you saw on the video. In fact - the video is the quickest my car CAN get up to 60.

Craig!! :)

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Craig:

My '94 with 112K can get up to 60 in about 8+ seconds from a standing start and engine at idle, visually judging my watch.

Have you run a compression test on either bank? If all fails, put the unit on a chassis dyno and see if you are in the ball park with torque and hp production. I think the losses through engine attachments, transmission, diff and tires should soak up about 20% of engine output, but it should give you concrete indication that something is amiss.

Mick

Going up a snowy switchback, the rear tires lost traction, TRAC control brought the engine back to idle even though the throttle was floored, and back down the hill I went.

I then disengaged the TRAC control, booted her back up the hill, and discovered that my '94 LS400 only has an open-center differential. One wheel lost traction and spun out, and back down I went again.

I guess this is one of the ideosyncrasies of electronic traction control and attempting to control wheelspin by modulating the wheel brake calipers.

I'll know next time to be very wary of snowy inclines, and realistically evaluate my chances of getting up them!

Around town, the system works perfectly in preventing massive fishtails and 180's, particularly when my wife drives it. Great traction control for starting on snow, just self defeating on any form of slippery incline.