busoptr

1993 Lexus ES300 V6 Automatic 260k miles...I know thats alot but I still want it fixed!

I've been reading forums, reading the repair manuals and topics for a couple of weeks now to try to figure things out on my own and to learn as much as I can. Needless to say, this thing is driving me crazy because I don't really have a lot of money to spend and the conflicting I'm getting. I do know some basics about car repair and such but this I'm just not sure because of all of the conflicting information I'm getting and now I'm just getting confused more than anything. I'll try to put as much info as I can think of and hopefully it will help if anyone can give me a straight answer on what is to do. I don't know anything about the previous owner(s) or how it was taken care of before.

Please keep in mind, I don't have a whole lot of money, I don't want to junk it, and that I just want it fixed without taking it to a repair shop or dealer.

Here's what's going on with it.

1. It sucks down gas REALLY bad...sorry that's the only way I can put it
   
2. It's blowing white smoke from the tailpipe (sometimes it looks a little greyish but mostly white) when I say "blowing", I mean it's litterally ROLLING out REALLLLLYYYY thick
   
3. It blows raw fuel from the tailpipe
   
4. It sputters some but otherwise runs really good
   
5. It doesn't overheat that I've noticed
   
6. I haven't noticed water in the oil or vice versa, BUT there is a smell of fuel on the dipstick
   
7. the CEL was on BUT...long story=short version...battery disconnected & now I can't get the codes
   
8. not sure if it's using a lot of oil or coolant because I haven't been running it alot (actually I'm a bit afraid to because of the fuel leaking & a few people have mentioned it's like a time bomb waiting to explode)...ummm YIKES?!?!
   

Here is a list of what I've done with it so far

1. new injectors
   
2. new spark plugs
   
3. new VSV's
   
4. new fuel pressure regulator
   
5. new PCV valve
   
6. cleaned EGR
   
7. cleaned IACV
   
8. cleaned throttle body
   
9. replaced a few old vac hoses
   
10. distributor & rotor still good
    
11. changed oil & filter
    
12. flushed radiator & replaced coolant
    

Been thinking it has to be the head gaskets & rings causing the smoke and raw fuel but have been told it couldnt be that. I've also been thinking that the guy that told me that is an idiot too though.:chairshot: LOL

I'd really appreciate any real advice and/or help....

Wow! It looks like you got a lot of work to do in that car so forget about not spending money. The bad fuel consumption is a sign that something is wrong with your emission systems or your engine. Also, a lot of white smoke, either head gasket is blown and coolant and oil is mixing together. Its easy to see that your car will need some money if you really want to hold on to it. Get a mechanic check it and ask him how much, and then if the quote is more than the value of your car then its time to sell your car for parts or junk it and get another es300 in better condition. Sorry brother, not to depress you or anything but sometimes you have to let go.... :(

I agree....that is hard to answer, depending on what you are looking for from the wax...shine, durability, etc. However, what always holds true is that

the best wax ever made will still look and perform badly if at first the car isn't ready for the wax, meaning, a good wash, then using a clay bar to pull out all of the impurities. I have detailed many, many cars, while wax is important, nothing is more important than the steps before the wax.

Hi Firewalker! Nice Post. I am just curious because I have never used clay bar before, do you rub it into the paint or how does this work? Is it like a bar of soap? Please elaborate. Thanks, I really want my es300 94 model to look real shiny, I used carnauba wax after a real good car wash, but not clay bar. Do you think I should try the clay bar after a good wash first? Does it really make a difference?

I have a 95 ES300 with 89000 miles. The tranny shifts hard out of park. More noticible in the morning but much less when the car is warmed up. Is this normal? I was thinking maybe becuase the engine is at high rpm's when it's cold. Any input? I changed the entire tranny system with AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. Shifting on roads is much smoother but the previous problem remains.

I am having exactly the same problem. My engine mount was damaged, but after have engine mount changed, problem remains, did you find out the reason and get it fixed? anyone can help? thanks!

could be transmission mount

can someone let me know where the thermostat is located on a 92 es300? i looked to download the FSM but i cant find it in the stickied thread. i need to know this asap. thank you very much.

also this is my first post. hello everyone!

I think if you look closely at your radiator hose and follow it to where theres a oval looking thing that bolts to the engine then there is your thermostat. Follow your upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine.

okay here is the pic of the part with the tubing.

can someone let me know where the thermostat is located on a 92 es300? i looked to download the FSM but i cant find it in the stickied thread. i need to know this asap. thank you very much.

also this is my first post. hello everyone!

I think if you look closely at your radiator hose and follow it to where theres a oval looking thing that bolts to the engine then there is your thermostat. Follow your upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine.

I have a 94 also, you should check your motor mounts or transmission mounts with that park to reverse issue jerking. Also check your valve cover gaskets for seepage or leaks. The dogbone mount is real easy to replace. You can buy a dog bone mount at pep boys for $ 26.00.

Yeah, I'd be dubious...

That sounds really cheap. I think TOYOTA will use the same timing belt as the lexus dealer, but this price will probably be just for the timing belt replacement, not the water pump which is practical to replace while doing timing belt replacement.

Hi all,

My mechanic just told me today that I need a new motor for my 98 ES300, which had only 152 k on it. I was surprised when noises started coming from the engine, so I tried to drive it to him, but it just died on the road, and so I had to call AAA to tow it. Long story short, I think the previous owner didn't take care of the car. I've had it for almost 9 months now, and didnt give me any problems.

Anyway, does anyone know a good place to buy used motors? I'm not planning to pay more than $600-700 on it. I read somewhere that this engine (1mzfe) is the same for a few models, including Camry, but which Camry? are there any differences between them? or when they say the same engine they mean they're exactly the same??

I appreciate any help...Thanks.

Well, first look at the engine that you are buying, it will have a raised marking on it that says 1mzfe and if its from a camry just make sure its the same engine as your original, which is a V6, I believe some camrys are 4 cylinders. It will cost you more than $ 600-$ 700 because of the labor in installation. I really feel for you because its a 98 and already you need a new engine. It looks like someone skipped out on all the oil changes or something. I suspect the timing belt broke while it was being driven and the engine seized. Youre probably looking at $ 2500 for the engine removal, engine and engine installation. Maybe you should just buy another es300.

That it DRIVES like a Benz, and RIDES like a Go Kart. The cars have terrible suspensions. Anyone agree???

Boy, I'm seeing in triple vision Still don't know what "That" is??? If my memory serves me right Go Karts have stiff suspension (if they have any at all) and corner very flat. :whistles:

Bloxxlex,

I dont know about you but my 230,000 miles es300's suspension is pretty incredible, there was a day that I had a flat rear tire and as I just woke up to take the kids to school, I drove the car all the way to 2 schools and back and didnt notice that my rear tire was totally flat, that is how good my suspension is still. Also, before I drove to the school my eldest son was calling me to tell me my rear left tire was totally flat. Do that on a benz? I dont think so. I know, I own a benz also. I would like to post here too that the benz and my es300 is a totally different drive feel. WHen you drive the es300 it feels feather like in weight but the benz , you feel that solid weight of the car. Its totally different. Just my opinion.

Greetings folks, I just sold my 300hp modified 2004 Dodge SRT-4 and replaced it with a 1993 ES300. I have to say, I am totally impressed with the way this car rides and drives despite it needing a new strut mount/strut.

It's got 189k miles and runs great.

I'm getting the safety/IM done tomorrow, and there are a few things I'll have to fix on it to make it as close to perfect as I can get it.

I can't gripe about much on the car, I got it for just over $1,500 so I think I got a pretty good deal. The interior is clean and has a small thumb sized hole in the driver side bolster. That's pretty much it. Everything works, the A/C blows ice friggin cold, so I'm assuming it's R-12, not R-134a.

The only concern I have is that it has an oil burning smell while it runs. It's somewhat minor, but I was assuming that it may be a valve cover gasket. I'm having my local dealer look at it and advise.

I read the FAQ and after I bought the car, it said to avoid the 92-93, well it's too late for that. I guess that there was a cooling issue with those 2 years?

What kind of remedies are available to me?

I look forward to corresponding with you folks :D

Welcome to the forum voddoo!!! I have a 94 es300 with 230k miles and my rear valve cover gasket is leaking oil and me and my mechanic buddy is replacing it this Saturday. That oil burning smell is the oil leaking into the exhaust pipe right after the y pipe which is directly below the rear valve cover. Use a mirror and check the back of the rear valve cover for oil leaks. Its funny because mine need struts too. Anyway, it does drive different from my ML430 and that HOnda Accord I used to have. ITs smooth and it feels real light. Different.

Here is a comparo between the 2001 ES & 2001 Accord V6.....I was not able to get the 4 cyl model. But the 4 cyl model either has a 135 or a 150 hp engine depending on the model. They are very cimilar in size. Click on each of the vehicles name for a more detailed (4 pages each) review. ;)

http://www.nctd.com/review-compare.cfm?Veh...p;VehicleThree=

get the ES!!!! Accords are a bore to drive. Trust me. I had one. LOL

He bought the Accord.

I went over to his house tonight to take a look. Drove the car, and while better than the Impala, I think it is still a downgrade in just about everything compared to my Camry. Judging by how picky he was with the other used cars we looked at, I expected this one to be in excellent condition, especially with 66K miles. That could not have been farther from the truth. Had I not known earlier, I would have guessed the car had at least twice that many miles.

The car was owned by a smoker, and the interior shows. The exterior of the car has quite a few scratches, a 2-inch ding in the passenger door, and a large dent right in the front of the bumper. Has no maintenance records and is due for a timing belt change, but he seems to think that is not important. The belt will probably have to break for him to finally realize what a big deal that actually is.

Main reason I thought he wouldn't like the ES I looked at earlier is because it had a couple scratches on the trunk lid, but I think this car is actually in worse condition. Worst part is, he paid $200 more than what Blue Book says the car is worth. Their values seem high to me anyway.

But, it has LOW MILES. (rolls eyes)

Needless to say, he is a good friend. It was just frustrating to go to all the work to try and help him find something good, but he just got too anxious and bought a piece of crap.

Man, yeah, I know how u feel dude. That timing belt will set him off at least $ 600.00 at the dealership. I had a Honda Accord and it was pretty reliable but it didnt turn any heads you know what i mean? Also with all the dents you said your friend's Honda Accord will just be another old Honda. My ES has 230k miles now but it still accelerates like a Mother*##$%. LOL. Dont worry though, your friend will learn his lesson and his taste in cars will grow up. Trust me.

Here is a comparo between the 2001 ES & 2001 Accord V6.....I was not able to get the 4 cyl model. But the 4 cyl model either has a 135 or a 150 hp engine depending on the model. They are very cimilar in size. Click on each of the vehicles name for a more detailed (4 pages each) review. ;)

http://www.nctd.com/review-compare.cfm?Veh...p;VehicleThree=

get the ES!!!! Accords are a bore to drive. Trust me. I had one. LOL

Yeah, I'm thinkin you might wanna get off the full synthetics, and maybe switch to high mileage blend. Todays high mileage motor oils are designed to keep seals conditioned and clean a little better. Just a thought. I'm an Amsoil user. But to each thier own.

Mobil filters are fine. It's not like your running extended rev limits and need to raise the oil flow rate or anything. Changing them regularly is the key.

If I'm not mistaken, oil capacity is 4.7 qts. Ask Mburnackis while your talking to him as he owns one and probably will have the exact figure if not just back up what I think it is.

Oh, and you just have the one PCV valve.

To take out the rear valve cover you have to remove the air cleaner housing, throttle body and also the maf and intake pipe.

the cats are in the header itself.... so installing an aftermarket header is how you would get rid of the cats... and it would increase the airflow therefore increasing power... and since you removed the cats with an aftermarket header you would have to sim the sensors to prevent a cel...

So I should get an aftermarket Header , and have him still trick the O2 Sensors?

Your car will run faster but it will not pass smog check. Also it might run loud as heck. It depends on what state you are in.

So, this morning I started the car and was doing a routine check, saw a little bit of smoke coming from the Y-pipe of the exhaust, this Y pipe coming from the exhaust manifolds, and the top of the Y-pipe looked moist and smoke was coming from that moisture. Does anyone here know which part above this Y-pipe that could be leaking some kind of fluid and it falls on top of the Y-pipe and it smokes in the morning? Could it be the rear valve cover gasket leaking oil and it drops down on the Y-pipe? Or exhaust manifold gaskets? Or is it the Y-pipe itself? Anyone?

Around here Toyo and Lexus are the same price per hour etc. So I would not bank on that. Seals are not integral to any MIL/DTC codes. Cam seals and crank seals are like $40 and should be replaced when TB is done.

The VC, for me I would just double check the torque on the bolts.

Wow, so things are really different in Texas. Over here my friends es300 had a stem seal problem and dealer quoted 2400$ to fix, independent said 1400$. So thats like 1000$ difference.

My friend is looking for a new car, upgrading from an old Honda Accord, and is looking at cars like ES300s, Nissan Maxima, Infinity I30, Acura TL etc. A 2001 ES with 127K for $7500 has caught my eye. Any idea of reasons to convince him to buy the ES over these other cars?

Wow! These are hard choices, considering all these cars you stated have real excellent reliability. Ok, heres my opinion on why buy the lexus. This is my opinion, my point of view, I am sure some people will disagree but heck, if this helps its all good.

1. Acura TL- looks too technical, like 80% technology, 20% aesthetics, but I used to drive Honda, and it was reliable as heck. Boring to drive though, it was an Accord. I guess the S2000 is more exciting to drive.

2. Nissan Maxima - Fast and smooth and reliable but no shock appeal.

3. 2000 Infinity I30 - Simulated Wood Trim. Mechanically related to the Maxima. Dont get me wrong,the Infiniti M class and G class are awesome luxury vehicles.

4. 2001 ES300 - real wood grain trim, glass has coating that traps 90% of UV rays ( good for summer days ), build quality is excellent, unibody frame made 30% more rigid than earlier models, crash resistance is upgraded from earlier models. And for me is more beautiful than Acura TL, Nissan Maxima or the I30. Even the cupholders were moved to a better position than later models. ALso interchangeability with most Toyota Camry parts which are so easy to get at the junkyard. Plus it bears the LEXUS mark, setting fear to MBZ owners broken down on the freeway LOL. I have a 2000 MBZ ML430 but to be honest,I drive the my es300 more. Plus this forum is the best forum I have ever joined.

Cmon man, when you go to a bar and someone asks you what u drive, dont u think Lexus will sound more powerful than saying Acura, Maxima or Infiniti?

This is my observations, so its still up to you if you want to get the es or not. Good Luck.

today ,the blower at the car wash riped the grey panel off my 1991 es250, most of the pins that hold it in place broke off, and the piece that holds it on cracked, any idea how much it will cost, dont think u can get a new one for a 91 es250, can a body shop , retrack new pins to hold it on

WoW!! Thats terrible. My advice would be go to your local auto pick up parts ( Junkyard) and get the grey panel. Or might as well get that whole door so you dont have to install it, just install the door. Good luck.

It might've been me with the fuel pressure regulator replacement. It was an easy fix worth a shot, before tackling the filter & pump.

I had a honda accord that did this, after a while it wouldnt start at all, in my case it was the starter. Replaced the starter and everything was fine. So it could be your starter going south. Just my opinion.

I don't think the Check Engine light is related to the leaky valve gaskets unless oil is somehow messing up the vehicle speed sensor. In either case you can get your car fixed at a toyota dealer instead of lexus whille saving a nice chunk of change, but like camlex said you need to fix those leaks.

I would suggest you take your lexus to a independent toyota mechanic and have them look at the valve cover gaskets, if it really has a leak or not. It would be 50% cheaper if done with a independent toyota mechanic. What symptoms did your car have besides the check engine light that made the dealer check for your valve cover gasket?

I think I might have to get a valve stem seal job soon, one mechanic quoted me like 1400.00 us $. Im like thats the price of the engine!! LOL. ANyway, is it worth it for my 94 es300 with 230000 miles already to get the stem seals fixed or should I just run the car like that? IS there a immediate danger to my engine? Car runs good.

Thanks for the abundant replies !!! LOL

I like cheese.

I think I might have to get a valve stem seal job soon, one mechanic quoted me like 1400.00 us $. Im like thats the price of the engine!! LOL. ANyway, is it worth it for my 94 es300 with 230000 miles already to get the stem seals fixed or should I just run the car like that? IS there a immediate danger to my engine? Car runs good.

Thanks for the abundant replies !!! LOL

Oh,thanks.140000 miles.

1.You can buy the upper dog bone mount at autozone for $ 26.00 and do that yourself with a socket wrench, very easy.

2. The transmission leak, get it done asap.

3. COnsidering the mileage, you should just change the whole strut, this will come with new rubber boots that your mechanic said is ripped.

Hope this helps.

The speedo and tach needles are burnt out on my 95 es300. I took my cluster completely apart and can't figure out how to take the needles off whatsoever. Can someone help? Also, I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a way to fix the needles instead of replacing them. Thank you.

The great LEXUCAN posted a extensive diy on the needles. Someone said you just pull the needles out but Im not sure, I tired that at the junkyad and the needles broke. It was from a LS. Maybe different style. I live 15 minutes from the junk yard and they got some es300's there and also camrys which has the same engine and mechanical parts as the es300.

Hi all,

I have cluster parts for sale basically everything except a fuel guage (I put in my old cluster). If you have a request or need anything let me know at srvcm@yahoo.com.

Hi SRVCM, nice avatar! I was wondering if youd sell a fellow forum member the needles. I also have a 94 and needles are totally dead. Pls!!!!! Im in California.