busoptr

Trust me the V6 engine in the RX is plenty of power for most, when you say you need/ want the power a V8 provides, well you said you used to have a Crown Victoria which I know has a V8 but its a horrible V8 and hideously slow for a V8 sense the car weights as much as a 747, All I got to say is the RX should be fine as far has a SUV.

You can get a 2000 Mercedes Benz ML430 this has a v8 for less than 10k. Lots of power.

I own a 1999 Model ES300 and all of a sudden it started shaking while driving.

First of all, I thought its because a flat tire but tires are pretty good...

Also the Check Engine and VSC/VSC OFF lights are ON in the dashboard...

Does it sounds like a big technical problem?

Often I used to see the Check Engine and VSC/VSC OFF lights appear and go on their own after a few days.

The shaking could have been a engine misfire and depending on the check engine codes, it could be your spark plugs, spark plug cables or your ignition coils.

hey first timer here , recently purchased 94 es 300 ck engine light came on soon after go figure, is it possible to pull the codes myself or what kind of scanner is needed to retrieve them. thanks hey found out the 94 is obd II compatible

YOu need a obd2 scanner. Yes it is obd2 compliant which is way earlier than most cars usually they have to be a 96 to be obd2 compliant. Dont worry this is a good thing. IF i remember the connector for the scanner is below the driver side of the dashboard, you can go to autozone and rent out their obd2 scanner. Post your codes read here and you can be helped. It could be simple to fix and sometimes serious. It could be just a disconnected 02 sensor or something. You need to know the codes first.

i have a 93 es 300 and it seems that both my mph gauge and rpm gauge needles do not light up anymore, do i just need to replace a bulb? or what do i need to do to get them to light up again

This is common in 2nd gen es300's. There is a fix for the needles, you have to put a little led light underneath the needle,search for it in the forum.

Thanks much.

I have noticed that the leaking has increased. Before I was adding ps fluid every 3-4 days and over the past 2 days I needed to add each day. One diffference is due to the heat I have been running the A/C and for whatever unknown reason, this has increased the rate of the leak.

Anovice

It could be your hydraulic pump for the radiator fan is cracked and leaking power steering fluid.If it is I have 2 for sale!!! Dealer price is $ 399 I'll sell it for $ 60.00. iTS in excellent condition.

Fellow members,

Sorry to say I parted with my 94 es300 with 231000 miles but running as smooth as she can be and no problems but windows in the front wil not go up. It is a good car, I dont care what all these guys in benzes say. I have a benz too but I have great respect for Lexus and when I get the chance I will get another lexus es. I just dont want a v8 so my choice will be a es or a is. To all of you, I have extra parts for the car, a radiator, a starter, 2 hydraulic fan motors and relays. Let me know if anyone here need one, I will sell them for a real good price ok.

This is a great forum, and if its ok with you guys Id like to stay a member.

I have a '92 es300 and it was overheating so we took it in for a test. They said one of the hoses were bad and it was replaced. Since then it doesn't overheat and the temp needle stays in the middle of the gauge (typically).

There is this long steep hill where I live and I drove up it last week. Upon getting to the top, I saw the temp rising faster and faster toward red (H). When I got to the top of the hill, I pulled over. Nothing was steaming or leaking, just hot. I let it cool down and everything seemed fine. I tried it a second time and the same thing happened.

Everywhere else I drive it's okay, except that one big hill. Does anybody know why this would happen?

It could be your oil has a little coolant in it, but just too little that you dont detect any coolant missing. My 2 cents.

Everyone is right on with their summaries. You can also add the Mercedez C class to the tightly sprung, performance classification. Every pebble on the road is felt in the cabin. Twenty years ago, I would have loved the Mercedez to cruise the curvy mountain roads, but no more.

We just picked up our ES350 last week after testing the new Honda (best NAV system by far), the Avalon, the Mercedez C300, and the Lexus. The Honda is still not a refined ride; the Avalon is a really nice car but not as nicely equipped as the ES and the NAV is really a step behind in technology (believe it or not, the Nav in the new Tundra pickup exceeds the Avalon - go figure); the Mercedez is a sports car.

We are really enjoying the ES350 and look forward to some road trips to really check it out. Combined with my 2007 VW Touareg, our driving is in a state of nirvana right now.

Rick

LEXUS ROCKSSSS PERIOD!!!

Good thing your doing research before you buy the car unlike me. Are you aware of the trans problem?

Bottom line FWD car are built for economy nothing more.

FWD with a decent amount of power like the es350 is always going to have torque steer if you punch it. SW03ES said it best. When are you going to be punching the gas and turning at 140Km? The ES350 is a cruiser car at best it isn't a performance car.

You hit it right on the head man, for your info guys, the es was not designed to be a porsche 911, its a luxury sedan, if youre a person who wants to punch the gas all the time or make 140 mile per hour turns you dont buy a es. The ES is for comfort and luxury and ample speed, why do you think it has 4 doors. Its the same thing with this guys who lower a 4 door accord and put body kits on them. Its a family sedan , Jeeez. You want a race car dont buy a 4 door. It just induces autism. LOL

Hi all. First off, I want to thank all of you who have had the guts to post the good, bad and ugly regarding these cars. When I purchased my car recently on March 30th, 2008, I asked my salesman about issues with the 07 model. His point blank response was--"there are no issues with this car."

I currently have 300 miles on my car and was thinking of posting around 1000 miles, but due to recent developments, I have decided to post now. These are my current findings: 1) I have the snap crackle and pop noises with the dash. These are worse when it is hot outside and I put on the A/C. Seems like the cold air meeting hot plastic has something to do with this. 2) When the car is cold, the tranny shifts kind of hard until it has warmed up and then the shifts are more fluid. I have experienced some mild flare occasionally--usually about 200-400 RPM's variation. I noticed a large flare of about 1000rpm shifting 2nd to 3rd when I had the car in the sport mode at about 3000rpm. After this initial flare, shifting seems more positive for the remainder of the drive.

3) I thought I was lucky that I didn't have the dreaded "diesel engine sound", but yesterday when the temp. dropped into the 60's, I started my car and heard it. I think my heart sank at this point as I realized that I have purchased yet one more "lemon". It took about 10 min. for the diesel sound to go away. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE in a luxury car. I don't have the heart to tell my wife, as she bought this car as a gift for my 50th birthday. :(

4) The rear package shelf resonates when I listen to music at about 40 (volume) with certain bass notes.

5) My tire pressure light went on during the cold snap and has stayed on until the temp went back up over 80 deg. What is that about?

All of the above have left a bad taste in my mouth. I waited a year and a half for the first year problems to be resolved but apparently they have not. What is the matter with Toyota? Do I have any recourse?

I would also like to point out a few good things. Once this car is WARMED UP it is a pleasure to drive. I find it extremely quiet and the wind noise is low low low. The ride is well damped but smooth. Handling is better than I would have thought.

The overhead lights don't bother me at all, and I find the lighting level sufficient. Tip: if you need a lot more incandescent lighting to see something, flip down the sun visor and use the vanity lights. They are very bright.

This car could have been a glowing success, but instead I find it a trouble-riddled bomb. This will be my last Toyota product. I should have learned my lesson with my 2005 Solara (a worse lemon) but thought Lexus was different. I guess not. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks All

Jig, sorry to hear about your 08. I have a 94 and it runs real nice so I doubt your car is a lemon. Good luck

hahaha, yeah bud it sounds like that would be your answer, but you can try it out and see if there is a difference, likely not though.

okay, thanks guys. So this is not needed. Thats all I wanted to know.

Hi fellows! In the sticky post lexus es faqs, sk mentioned that installing front strut bars will sharpen the steering feel, I was wondering, does this strut bars go on top of the struts ? ANd what does it really do for your car? Is it really necessary?

Almost 50 views and no one knows? Damn.

I think its called SHARK body kit. Google it with images.

I'm an owner of a 1990 ES 250 and there is just one problem.... that for one I've been comming across the best offers on chrome rims all under $400. I'm trying to put on a set of 18" chrome 5 lug universal on my car. For one I already know this is way to big for the car and will alter supension, handling, etc... But I'm trying to see if they will fit and I'll lift the car if too much finder scrubbing is involved. Now if anybody that either owns my model 250 and has successfully put 18" on thier car or you really know about installing rims. Please feed me the knowlege bra.....

I think 18"is the max you can put in a es250. CHeck the sticky on lexus es faq's .

1996 ES300, 131,000 miles.

For the past six months or so, my CEL comes on about once per month, stays on for about 2-3 days, then goes off.

Recently, CEL is coming on more frequently and staying on longer.

I took it to my mechanic today - Code is P0420, Catalytic Converter Efficiency. Tested O2 sensors - OK. "Catalytic Converter has no ability to store oxygen on rich side."

They want $2900 (!!) to replace the CC ($2500 part plus tax, 2 hrs labor). They refuse to install an OEM CC.

I see I can buy an OEM CC for 1/10 the price or less, but the mechanic advises they are very unreliable.

I did just pass my emission test last month, so won't need the next test for 23 more months.

I don't want to invest this much in a 12-year old vehicle with 131,000 miles. It otherwise runs great, so I would hate to get rid of it.

I could drive with the CEL on, but it could mask a future problem.

The mechanic warned over time of back pressure, which would require a heavier pedal to accelerate, and reduced gas mileage.

I'm not sure how to proceed, other than knowing I'm not investing $2900. Should I have another shop install an OEM CC, and if so, is there an OEM CC that is recommended? Do nothing? Start shopping for a replacement car?

Know what, these guys are overcharging you. Just take your car to a reliable muffler shop, and they'll take out your cats and put new ones in for like $ 200.00 period. Whoever pays $ 2900 for a catalytic converter, are they out of their minds? Even the cats on my mercedes ML430 cost only $ 400.00 each on each side and this is because it has 2 cats on each side. Cmon, they want to rip you off. The aftermarket cats are as good as the original ones,they will last you at least 10 years.

My check engine light came back on. So in a matter of the past 2

weeks, the light came on, then went off and came back on.

I paid $250 for the flex pipe + converter, and yes, this is most likely a universal converter and not a direct fit as the mechanic had to weld it in.

I did take my car back to the mechanic (the light was off that time),

he inspected and did not find any leaks. He still welded it again just

to close any minor leaks that may be present. The light came back on a

couple of days later, so don't think the second round of welding did

any good. Other than this, he does not see anything wrong in 'his'

converter.

What are my options at this point? Do I have to now go and buy a new

OEM converter?

mb12345,

Have you even checked the connectors from the 02 sensors at all? It could be just loose from that recent work on your catalytic converter.

Did you resolve your issue? I have a '01 ES and its gas mileage drops poorly in this winter too. I am curious about your current progress. Thanks in advance if you can share.

Hey guys I was out in my garage at 10pm to 1am working on my '97 ES300. I know my car pretty well. I grabbed my 10mm socket and removed the ignition components etc to prepare to access the camshaft and lobes etc. I removed the cover and I see what i see at work. Brown parts with a carbon appearance to them. I change my oil every 2500 miles or so(sorry mrburnickas) and I am satisfied with performace overall. I need a good additive to remove the build up from the oil etc that has settled or built up. I dont feel like toothbrushing it for 10 hours. Can anyone feed me a good brand for cleaning dirty engine parts. I would greatly appreciate the help.

I think seafoam will clean it up.

i have a 2000 rx300 with about 135000 mi on it. the check engine light came on and i found 6 different codes. which were, po303, po300, po302, po125, po171, and p1130 i need some help. i was planning on getting a haynes manual. reading all the post about different problems i was hoping one thing might be wrong causing all the other codes to be flagged. the spuddering just started and the engine light started blinking, as before it was solid. i know what all the codes mean but not sure which to address first.

You have random cylinder misfires. I would start by changing the spark plug cables or the coils if you dont have cables. Also change the spark plugs.

I'm hearing a clicking noises when I turn right or left in my LX450. Axel issue, suspension, or bearing issue? Also, does the LX450 have ball joints? If so, could they need replacing, as the seal appears to be wearing in that area.

Last, I hear it's a ton of work to replace ball joints, due to the tedious nature of the work. Does anyone have an experience in this area?

axle need replacement

I have a 95 es300 with 216k miles. All services done. No leaks. No other issues. Timing belt, water pump, plugs, cam and crank seals, done at 160k. Now I have a check engine light and the engine stalled 5 times this morning. Code is p1300 igniter circuit malfunction. Is it the igniter itself or could it be something else downstream such as a CAT? I also have a shift solonoid code in there for quite some time now and need or get that ordered soon.

I would suspect the ignition switch. Just my 2 centavos

The mechanic told me this afternoon that number 4 & 6 injectors were being held open. He thinks either the computer (ECM) is causing it or a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm curious though, would that cause it to smoke that bad and the other symptoms I've been having?

They are going to have someone look at it thoroughly tomorrow to try and track down exactly what is causing the injectors to stay open.

Yes definitely, raw fuel out the tailpipe as well as dark smoke is an indicator of way too much fuel. Also your terrible gas mileage. Here's a good snippet of how fuel injectors work.

A fuel injector is nothing more than a high-speed valve for gasoline. An engine computer or controller is used to control the fuel injector. Contrary to popular belief, this is NOT done by sending power to the injector. Fuel injectors are normally fed power whenever the ignition key is on. The computer controls the negative, or ground side, of the circuit. When the computer provides the injector with a ground, the circuit is completed and current is allowed to flow through the injector. This energizes an electromagnetic coil inside the injector, which pulls a sealing mechanism (pintle, ball, or disc) away from its seat. This makes it possible for fuel to flow through the injector and into the engine. When the computer removes the electrical ground to the injector, the electromagnetic coil becomes demagnetized and a spring forces the pintle, ball, or disc shut to cut off fuel flow. Even at an engine speed of just 1000 RPM, this is done hundreds of times per minute.

They should be able to narrow it down through testing, the electrical routing for the injectors is not that complicated.

Thats very informative of you. I was just wondering if there was a way to differentiate lifter noise from fuel injector ticking.

Hi guys and ladies,

I always put 91 octane unleaded fuel in my 94 es, but I just wonder if it is ok to put 88. What does the owners manual say because I lost mine. Sorry.

I am no oil man, even thought I drive by the rigs daily, but my oil testing houses says use the cheapest you can find. right, wrong etc? No clue but for years they have never steard me wrong.

huh? LOL. Funny Avatar though.

Hi guys and ladies,

I always put 91 octane unleaded fuel in my 94 es, but I just wonder if it is ok to put 88. What does the owners manual say because I lost mine. Sorry.

Can keys be bought & programmed for a '92 (ES300) as well? I called the dealer & I am NOT paying $232 for the key plus $60 for programming!?!?!?!

If it were the newer fob, maybe - but the old basic fob, c'mon. Also, can the newer fob be programmed to my older model? I'm guessing probably not.

92 keys are not transponder type keys. You dont have to program the keys to start the car, just the FOB to activate alarms or open doors.

Hello,

I bought a 99 es300 couple months ago with 80K miles and it's been running just fine. This past weekend, I took it for a 1500-mile road trip. I pull into a gas station for restroom break, etc, and when I turned the engine on it just wouldn't remain running. It just shut itself off immediately. It went on like that for several times til I had to hold down the gas pedal. Luckily after holding down the gas pedal for a minute or so, the engine remained running once the gas was released and I was unable to drive straight home for the next 5 hrs. I dared not to turn the engine off during that 5-hr span.

Seeking advice from all auto guru. Thanks.

Could be bad gas....because you still drove straight home for the next 5 hours without any problems.