stau

Not me--just crack the nut and let it "gently" spray with buckets under it and let the pressure leak off,then cracked the nuts back more and watched the pressure drop, etc, etc. Drained off about 2 gallons during the whole process. Just ensure you have gloves and safety glasses on and plenty of fresh air.

Ok--just replaced my fuel filter (95 400 140K). First I got mine for the stealer and it came with bracket, next I had only about 5 gallons in my tank (thus below 1/4), and once I cracked the nuts I got fuel flow. Placed two "buckets" under lines and with rubber gloves cranked the nuts back until they both released. Once the filter was out I still was getting some flow out of the tank. Placed the new filter in line and reconnected the nuts and stopped the flow. New filter for stealer was nice as the bracket lined up with mounts on the underside--cost about $40 some. Recommend use a 14mm flare wrench to stop rounding off nuts--right tool, right job.

Ok was just there--and it sounds like a coil. It was my drivers side coil and it did affect the tach in the fact as I attempted to give it gas, the tach would go to zero until I let off the gas or the Xmission would shift. My main indicators was loss of power, hot pipes, sell of raw gas from exhast, and tach going to zero. Never threw a code and as the car is 92 (mine is a 95) I would recommend changing both out and avoid a repeat performance.

Was the driver's side coil--thanks for the info and late reply.

and will start well but while in park, you increase RPMs the tach drops to zero but again, the engine increases --as the engine decrease back to around 750 rpms, tach comes back.

SC400, 95, 125K--Driving home and at a stop light I noticed a change in engine dynamics. Engine developed a muffeled sound and as best I could describe it –almost like it was the potato in the tail pipe. Now, when I took off from the light, I had little power. Also as I increased the power while in 1st the tach “bounced around” and dropped to zero but the car keep plodding along (thus it didn’t reflect the decrease in RPMs), shifted into second tach came back to est RPM, then dropped again to zero as I asked for more power (very slowly at that) and shifted again but remained at the designed RPMs. Funny smell from exhaust, no check engine light, Xmission fluid is normal flavor. Sometimes I have been concerned about the Xmission as it makes a “whinning” noise when it first starts out but then clears up and no slippage. No real visible signs under car or engine comparment. Now before I throw up my hands and take it to the shop—what are some quick checks??? Thanks to the forum and the tech info on timing belts, window regulators, and front end bushings as I am getting ready to do the timing belt/pump (maybe).